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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I really didn't know where to post this so please bare with me.
My pinion angle is off since lowering my car with H&R Race coils and the installation of a T5. Car was an auto car.
I'm looking for an adjustable upper rear control arm that won't transmit too much noise or clunking. I'm thinking heims or sphericals are definitely out of the equation.

Thanks!
 

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I don't have an answer on the arms but have you tried shimming the trans mount?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tranny can't go up any higher as the top plate of shifter is already lifting the lower boot. I reused the SN95 cross member and used a Fox t5 and bell.
 

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I had the same issue with my SN95... I also am using a Fox T5... I ended up trimming the opening in the tunnel so the trans could be raised and used a generic shifter boot. I am not using a console so that was not a consideration. I used a poly mount for a 1970 Mustang IIRC and made several aluminum shims so I could fine tune the u joint working angles. I had to cut out a portion of the SN95 cross member and weld in a slotted plate to adapt the older trans mount.
 

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Why not use adjustable lowers with some sort of spherical in one end that isn't a rod end? Pay attention to making even adjustments side to side, else you'll change the thrust angle.

Clunking is likely to happen when the inner sleeves that go through polyurethane bushings are shorter than the poly. You don't get full clamping out of your tightening torque - quite a lot of it can be wasted compressing the poly, and as soon as the suspension moves under accelerating or braking load, the joints you thought were properly torqued (but don't have the proper clamp loads going through the metal parts) slip a little until the bolt holes bottom out against the bolt.


I've been running LCAs from Currie in my '08 for several years now, which feature Johnny-joints on one end and poly on the other. They haven't been noisy under any circumstances, no squeaks, no clunks. Couple times a year I shoot a little grease into them (like at the beginning of track day season, for one). I did DIY-mod the poly slightly.


Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the same issue with my SN95... I also am using a Fox T5... I ended up trimming the opening in the tunnel so the trans could be raised and used a generic shifter boot. I am not using a console so that was not a consideration. I used a poly mount for a 1970 Mustang IIRC and made several aluminum shims so I could fine tune the u joint working angles. I had to cut out a portion of the SN95 cross member and weld in a slotted plate to adapt the older trans mount.
I did trim the front of the shifter opening over 1". The car is pretty mint so I'm trying to keep the interior stock in appearance. If I used no lower boot; the tranny could raise up higher. As it is; I fabbed a 1/4" thick plate that sits on top of the AODE cross member to bolt the tranny mount in the right spot. So; the tranny sits 1/4" higher at the mount than normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why not use adjustable lowers with some sort of spherical in one end that isn't a rod end? Pay attention to making even adjustments side to side, else you'll change the thrust angle.

Clunking is likely to happen when the inner sleeves that go through polyurethane bushings are shorter than the poly. You don't get full clamping out of your tightening torque - quite a lot of it can be wasted compressing the poly, and as soon as the suspension moves under accelerating or braking load, the joints you thought were properly torqued (but don't have the proper clamp loads going through the metal parts) slip a little until the bolt holes bottom out against the bolt.


I've been running LCAs from Currie in my '08 for several years now, which feature Johnny-joints on one end and poly on the other. They haven't been noisy under any circumstances, no squeaks, no clunks. Couple times a year I shoot a little grease into them (like at the beginning of track day season, for one). I did DIY-mod the poly slightly.


Norm
Interesting idea but why not use adjustable uppers as my lowers are already aftermarket spherical J&M's? I've used the Johnny Joints on Jeeps before with great success. I wasn't aware that Currie made Mustang arms.
 

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They at least used to, under the 'Currectrac' product line. Got mine back in 2012 after being informed that the OE bushings had started to crack.

I suggested lowers because I didn't know that you'd already swapped them, and because working with adjustments is easier with lowers than uppers.


Norm
 
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