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Discussion Starter #1
I have done a lot of reading, but I am unable to find an answer, so I will ask here.

I have a 1995 Mustang GT that will make between 400 - 500 rwhp when it is finished, so I have a question about clutches. A combination of 60% street, 30% AutoX, and 10% open track events are what is planned for the stang.

I am wondering what clutches you guys would recommend for the abuse of road racing and auto-crossing.
 

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I had an FRPP King Cobra that chattered badly when hot and not on track (always on the way home from the track or on a long street drive). Not sure if that clutch just wasnt' broken in correctly or what but I never liked it because of the chatter.

When I built my new engine, I used a Spec stage 2+. I love this clutch, it's not an on/off switch like some of the other high capacity single disc clutches are rumored to be, it doesn't chatter, it's a got good feel and isn't overly heavy in traffic, and it's held up great thus far (3 years now). In retrospect, I may have gone too big and would probably opt for the stage 2 instead of the 2+. The stage 2 is rated to 567 lb/ft and the stage 2+ is good up to 635 lb/ft, I'm nowhere near either of those numbers but I'll have some room to grow if need be.

Either way, I'd recommend a Spec clutch, I've been really happy with the performance of mine.

Do note, they are NOT the budget choice, but I've found you usually get what you pay for and I hate pulling the trans on the floor of my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm glad to hear that since I have been looking at a Spec Stage 2 clutch. From what I have read and the responses, Spec seems to be the only real way to go nowadays.
 

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I RUN CENTERFORCE DUAL FRICTION.

HAVE HAD IT 7 YRS, AND 2 COMBINATIONS, 1ST ONE WAS 358 W/250 SHOT
2ND IS AUTOCROSS 351 STROKED TO A 383. STILL WORKS GREAT
 

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I ALSO RUN A CENTERFORCE DUAL FRICTION AND I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I run the King Cobra as well. its heavy and not the strongest and will be replaced at some point with a SPEC. I have not run into the chattering, but did I mention that its heavy??
 

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Centerforce LMC (light metal clutch) and an aluminum flywheel if you're insane about removing every pound of material off the car like I am. They are pricey but it's the lightest clutch I could find without having to spend huge dollars on a tiny race clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmmm...

I hadn't considered the Centerforce, but that sounds like a good clutch. I don't know what it's rated as far as torque and hp, but I need to check it out.

I currently have a King Cobra, but I know it's not rated to handle the new combination.
 

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You can order the SPEC clutches with drilled pressure plates that lightens them, but if memory serves, it was expensive, and I didn't opt for it. Not sure what they weigh compared to the LMC, but I remember looking at the LMC and deciding not to go with it. Probably a cost thing but can't remember at this point.
 

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Love my spec 2+. I've done everything with it. Auto-x, Road course, Drag, even salt flats.

Good to go.
 

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Does anyone have any experience with Quarter Master clutches. I am just beginning to do research to see if I could run one. Wonder if a special starter is needed. I browsed through some used Nascar stuff but that has to use a special Quicktime bell housing, starter, and flywheel along with the clutch itself.

Anyone know what the Cenerforce LMC weighs?
 

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You'll laugh, but I used a clutch from Ebay that was an off brand and was rated for more power than what my car made. I also bought an aluminum flywheel for it at the same time. My car has done great.

BTW, the aluminum flywheel was like 11lbs lighter than the stocker. You could definitely feel the difference when holding them, one after the other.
 

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i had mine in a 357 with a 250 n20 shot, then roadraced and autocrossed same setup, then built a nasty ford 383 eagle stroker setup that dynoed at 487hp on motor and all the while same clutch!!!!!

8years
 
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