Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1995 Mustang GT which will soon have a NA 10:1 342 cid, which is currently being built. I have been research oil pans and so far I am about to explode from all the threads I have read on what works and what does not work.

I plan to eventually put on a tubular K-member if funds ever permit, so any knowledge on the effect on my choice of oil pan would help. I have been told to run a stock pump with the FRPP shaft - does that sound right?

I plan to put a main girdle on the engine and I would like an oil pan with a windage tray and the requisite baffles to prevent oil starvation. Also, I would like the added capacity of at least 7 quarts.

I have heard good and bad things about the Canton, Moroso, and Milodon pans. What are you using on your 94/95? Will the fox pans fit the 94/95? Also, what oil pan gasket worked for you?

Any help you can give me would be great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
I have the Canton pan. No oil pressure problems either. I saw a few posts/threads about them leaking. Mine does not leak, it has been on the car for about 65k miles (90k total on motor)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,662 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
I've had a main girdle on two 347's both of which blew up on track days. The first had a cast crank and made about 375 hp. The second had a forged crank and made 450 hp. Both cranks broke right behind the #1 main. Both blocks were destroyed both girdles were heavily bent. The bottom line is that if you are using a stock block in a road race/ open track environment. It can't really hold much more than stock power girdle or not. If this is a street motor, you MAY get away with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
I was looking at the Kevko F 404 pan. Kicked out road race with 4 gate assembly. Just not sure if it will clear my headers (Mac 1 3/4 long tubes). Clearance seems to be a problem with kicked out pans and long tubes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
I used a Canton with a girdle and 1 3/4 hooker long tubes. Make sure to get the right oil pickup if you use a girdle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
My BBK long tube headers cleared my Canton RR pan. The only thing I don't like about the BBK's is the size of the opening for the ball/cone joint. I cut the BBK ball off and welded on a ball with a true 3" opening that I bought from Dr. Gas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
blk 91 gt how did you make almost 600whp with 42lb inj? do you have a fmu on there aswell?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
I needed an FMU.( Better fuel system and injectors) All I had was a one to one regulator and two fuel pumps larger lines at 41psi of fuel at idle I didn't go more than 5800 rpms.
Bigger injectors would have been better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Sorry... Canton does NOT make a road race pan for the 94-95 mustang!!! However, there are two ways to make one fit. #1: Exchange your bellhousing and transmission ( yes, tranny too because of differences in position and length ) from your SN95 for those from a 87-93. BAD IDEA!!! The bellhousing on 87-93's has the hole for the clutch cable above where the Canton oil pan side kickout is. On the SN95, the hole is several inches below... and bam! no way to insert clutch cable. Proper fix? Have Canton put a tube through the kickout so the clutch cable actually goes through the pan!!! Canton knows about this problem, although they don't make this pan in production. ( they will custom make it out of a production pan. price quoted $100 ) What is frustrating is that retailers that sell these pans don't know that they won't work. Canton knows but they don't seem to share this with anyone, their own website is ambiguous about fitment at best, and other sites say that they will fit. So yeah, you could say I have had this same problem..LOL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Sorry... Canton does NOT make a road race pan for the 94-95 mustang!!! However, there are two ways to make one fit. #1: Exchange your bellhousing and transmission ( yes, tranny too because of differences in position and length ) from your SN95 for those from a 87-93. BAD IDEA!!! The bellhousing on 87-93's has the hole for the clutch cable above where the Canton oil pan side kickout is. On the SN95, the hole is several inches below... and bam! no way to insert clutch cable. Proper fix? Have Canton put a tube through the kickout so the clutch cable actually goes through the pan!!! Canton knows about this problem, although they don't make this pan in production. ( they will custom make it out of a production pan. price quoted $100 ) What is frustrating is that retailers that sell these pans don't know that they won't work. Canton knows but they don't seem to share this with anyone, their own website is ambiguous about fitment at best, and other sites say that they will fit. So yeah, you could say I have had this same problem..LOL!
Thank you so much for the information. There seem to be very few of the 94 - 95 cars out there, and even less people who have done this mod. I will have to make sure that wherever I buy the pan, we tell Canton to mod it for a 95 GT.

How has the pan treated you? Any issues?

Does the mod affect the capacity of the pan at all?

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Pan mods

Actually, Boosted50, a certified welder buddy is going to make this mod for me this monday! But, here is what i can tell you. Canton has done this before ( by their own admission )...BUT, they rely on YOUR engineering!!! So, you have to buy their pan, take your own measurements, send it back and forth...you get the picture. You would think that after almost 15 years, that this problem would be solved, but no. But take heart friend, because by the end of this week, Canton will have a few new part numbers!!!! There are 2 minor issues.... obviously restraining the engines movement with solid steel engine/trans mounts, urethane mounts or a torque link ( since the cable passes through the pan kick out after all ) and the low oil sensor ( which no one uses anyway )that requires a few mods if you actually choose to use it. BTW BBK long tubes clear this pan and everything else BEAUTIFULLY!!! just one more thing.... on my n.a. 331 the ONLY reason that I'm not using the stock pan is because it won't clear my main girdle/windage tray, which, IMHO is required on late model blocks that make over 400 hp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I'm working with Aviaid to spec out a single-sump oil pan with an external oil pump for my new AI motor. I'm looking forward to it - it will solve a LOT of issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
We had not really planned on it, but once we've gone through the development, there is no reason John (at Aviaid) could not make more.

Don't bombard him with calls right now. Let me work through it, and if you're interested, drop a reply here. Once we have it all working, I'll talk to John and pass on some info here.

It will probably run about twice the price of a conventional RR pan and internal pump, but it will resolve a LOT of issues.. Keep in mind it will pretty much require a completely custom belt drive set-up.

*Single sump pan resolves steering rack clearance issues. Move the rack whereever you want to optimize bumpsteer stack height and Ackermann.
*External oil pump allows easily tunable oil pressure and easy pre-oiling of the motor.
*Single sump pan makes it MUCH easier to pull a pan at the track.
*Removing the oil pump driveshaft loading on the distributor gear should MASSIVELY reduce distributor gear wear and alignment issues.
*An external filter between the pickup and the oil pump traps debris in an easily inpsectable filter, rather than trapping it in the pan.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top