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The real white95!
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Discussion Starter #1
What engine mods should I consider that would help with long duration, high rpm use without digging into it too deep? [HPDE sessions and routine Auto X use] My engine is the venerable 4.6 4V with B-heads and it is very stock. My long term goal is a Coyote swap so I don't want to get to far into this setup. The more parts that can possibly carry over to the Coyote swap, the better.

Parts I've collected so far:

1] Boundary oil pump with billet gears

2] rear cylinder head cooling crossover from Wonder Racing, LLC

3] three core aluminum radiator

4] oil filter relocation kit [mainly to install MM K-member]

Other parts I'm considering:

1] Winged oil pan... Canton? MMR?

2] Livernois oil drain back kit

3] external oil cooler with electric fans
 

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Look into an Accusump, I know (from some years ago) that some of the AI guys had to run these to keep the oil flowing at high G's. It may only have been some turns on some tracks (ie- High G-force, long radius turns).

Don't quote my though...I ride more mountain bikes than race cars these days.... #kidproblemz :)
 

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The windage tray and a higher capacity pan may be a decent investment. I would agree that anything with ability to keep the engine running cool would be a wise investment. Any mods to the driveline?
 

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The real white95!
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Discussion Starter #6
The windage tray and a higher capacity pan may be a decent investment. I would agree that anything with ability to keep the engine running cool would be a wise investment. Any mods to the driveline?
I have a few modest upgrades and a few more lined out;

rebuilt T45 [billet shift forks, bronze pads, carbon synchros, pro 5.0 shifter/Hurst handle]
aluminum driveshaft
rebuilt 8.8 with 31 spline Moser axles, a Torsen T2R and 3.73's
 

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A heat extractor hood, either bought of built, is a good investment. Helps in cooling and keeping the front end better planted.
 

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I'm no expert, but the general consensus seems to be the best placement is just behind the radiator (that's where mine is). By the way, yours looks damn good compared to mine...I used an old A/C intake grill I found lying around in my garage!
 

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The real white95!
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Discussion Starter #10
I'm no expert, but the general consensus seems to be the best placement is just behind the radiator (that's where mine is). By the way, yours looks damn good compared to mine...I used an old A/C intake grill I found lying around in my garage!
Traded an extra MM k-member I had for that hood to replace the heavy, no-name brand Cobra R hood I've had for several years. At least you actually use yours, mine just guards the driveway with the tenacity of a mailbox. :rolleyes:
 

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Oh man, I just noticed you live in Prairieville...when you get your car together, you have to come down to NOLA and do some events!

Don't be discouraged...other than that excessive toe-in you've got going there, you're looking good ;)
 

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The real white95!
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815 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Haha, yeah, I have yet to drill the spindles out for the bump steer kit.

Yes, we will have to do just that!! I'm a current NASA NOLA/CenLa SCCA member but have yet to do my first HPDE due to either schedule conflicts or vehicle status. My wife won't let me use her '05 GT but I did make a Drag-n-Lap there once. It was 50* out so I took it easy but had a blast. I'm hoping to have the car under its own power and on the road by early December. That's when the one year registration hold lapses and I have to insure it or turn the tag in.
 

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Haha, yeah, I have yet to drill the spindles out for the bump steer kit.

Yes, we will have to do just that!! I'm a current NASA NOLA/CenLa SCCA member but have yet to do my first HPDE due to either schedule conflicts or vehicle status. My wife won't let me use her '05 GT but I did make a Drag-n-Lap there once. It was 50* out so I took it easy but had a blast. I'm hoping to have the car under its own power and on the road by early December. That's when the one year registration hold lapses and I have to insure it or turn the tag in.

Based on what looks like that you have little to no seat time I would suggest spending your money on track time and not the car.
 

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The real white95!
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815 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Based on what looks like that you have little to no seat time I would suggest spending your money on track time and not the car.
Noted. While I do wholeheartedly agree with your logic, I've spent the money on parts and 80% of them are already installed on the car. This means I'm going to have to learn how to "catch up with my car" so to speak.

Two years ago, I realized this error and I did have a mainly stock Mustang which I was "learning with" but it was totaled last November.

 

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The real white95!
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Discussion Starter #16
What suspension mods have you done?

The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are actually on the car:

  • Tubular k-member kit
  • Front coil overs/MM3 Struts
  • Rear coil overs/MM2 shocks
  • Full length subframe connectors

The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are pending installation:

  • Panhard bar
  • HD torque arm
  • Road Race control arms
  • Front sway bar relocation
  • two point brace for k-member
  • Short sway bar endlinks
The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are pending purchase:

  • Adjustable, rear sway bar kit
I believe that's everything.. My goal was to eventually have the entire Grip box.
 

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Probably not the most effective design but it's what I have:



https://flic.kr/p/Xg9Dm8
ok not to start any drama but here is my 2 cents


1. Get rid of the cowl hood. Cowl hoods are not used for their intended purposes by 99% of people, cowl as in cowl induction was a thing back in the muscle car era but now many fox/mustang guys run cowl hoods for the looks, or to clear a big engine. So problem number 1. cowl hood is doing exactly the opposite of what we racers want it to do, that hood is pushing more air under the hood. Get a stock hood or stock styled hood.

2. those hood vents are wayyyy to far back, again most likely pushing more air under the hood than pulling air out.


So get a stock hood, and install that vent much closer to the radiator in efforts to extract hot air and pressure/lift front the front end.

Mods for racing:


Brake cooling ducts
Oil cooler
heat extractor hood
Really good high temp brake fluid
Hawk HP Plus pads are a good start

3 degrees neg camber up front
chassis stiffening!
 

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The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are actually on the car:

  • Tubular k-member kit
  • Front coil overs/MM3 Struts
  • Rear coil overs/MM2 shocks
  • Full length subframe connectors

The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are pending installation:

  • Panhard bar
  • HD torque arm
  • Road Race control arms
  • Front sway bar relocation
  • two point brace for k-member
  • Short sway bar endlinks
The following parts from Maximum Motorsports are pending purchase:

  • Adjustable, rear sway bar kit
I believe that's everything.. My goal was to eventually have the entire Grip box.

Why mix match dampers (ie MM2/MM3) I would have just went MM3 all four corners.
 

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The real white95!
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815 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
ok not to start any drama but here is my 2 cents


1. Get rid of the cowl hood. Cowl hoods are not used for their intended purposes by 99% of people, cowl as in cowl induction was a thing back in the muscle car era but now many fox/mustang guys run cowl hoods for the looks, or to clear a big engine. So problem number 1. cowl hood is doing exactly the opposite of what we racers want it to do, that hood is pushing more air under the hood. Get a stock hood or stock styled hood.

2. those hood vents are wayyyy to far back, again most likely pushing more air under the hood than pulling air out.


So get a stock hood, and install that vent much closer to the radiator in efforts to extract hot air and pressure/lift front the front end.

Mods for racing:


Brake cooling ducts
Oil cooler
heat extractor hood
Really good high temp brake fluid
Hawk HP Plus pads are a good start

3 degrees neg camber up front
chassis stiffening!
No drama here! I'm here to listen and learn. I do still have a stock hood that I can experiment with but I'm not certain it will fit the 96-98 Cobra intake, so I'll research this. I'll admit, I do like the way the hood looks so I'm sure it will stick around for a while until I nail another setup down.


Why mix match dampers (ie MM2/MM3) I would have just went MM3 all four corners.
I bought the dampers used from my friend Brett Madsen (they worked well on his New Edge) and decided to try them before I decided which set to replace.
 

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No drama here! I'm here to listen and learn. I do still have a stock hood that I can experiment with but I'm not certain it will fit the 96-98 Cobra intake, so I'll research this. I'll admit, I do like the way the hood looks so I'm sure it will stick around for a while until I nail another setup down.




I bought the dampers used from my friend Brett Madsen (they worked well on his New Edge) and decided to try them before I decided which set to replace.

Yea see if you can put those vents on a stock hood, i skinned my stock steel hood and dropped 15lbs off of it. In a car that turns you want the lowest COG as possible, so id lower that intake manifold if you want, i used to run a 1inch spacer (removed it) plus on a fox the vert motor mounts supposely lower motor 1/2 inch to an inch (still want to do this) another reason why i love the tubular GT40 intake manifold its so light compared to the trickflow breadboxes. Next up aluminum heads, less weight up front, and this should lower COG because more weight will be down low. I also lowered the drivers seat, (which myself 170lbs is now a few inches lower) and i moved my odyssey battery from the rear trunk (high spot) to right behind where the passenger seat would be (low spot)


All efforts to make this fox turn in and handle better,
 
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