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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright guys i need some direction/opinions on what its gonna take to make my 8.8 handle the car in my sig. Lets call it 75% street, 25% track...

Suspension setup:
Baseline Stage 2 UCA's, LCA's, Race ARB
Tokico Illumina 5-ways
Stock GT springs
Aerospace Pro-street brakes

What about the Torque Boxes?? Just weld the seams or go ahead and call Wild Rides for an upper and lower kit?

Do i still need to worry about the quads??


As far as the rearend itself goes, this is what i have so far:
31 spline Superior C-clip axles
31 spline FRPP diff (plan on rebuilding w/ carbon clutches)
Girdle

I plan on welding the tubes, dropping the dog bone and installing a CHE axle brace.

What else can i do?? Is 31 spline and c-clips still safe for me??
If i stay 31 spline should i buy an Eaton or Detriot Tru-trac Diff and ditch the FRPP unit??
Can i get C-clip elim's for these axles, or any other 31 spline axle? Everything i see says for drum brakes...

If i go 33 spline does anybody make a streetable diff or is it pretty much all lockers and spools at that point??


Any help or insight would be much appreciated, thanks guys
 

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Moser has a good calculator on their axle tech section to calculate max torque to the wheels. Do you know what your axles are rated?
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/axletech.html

That Wild Rides kit is overkill for just reinforcement. Unless you're ripped your tq boxes to shreds, just weld the seams and buy/make some plates like these: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=294

Quad shocks - honestly I don't know. They're there to control wheel hop, but with good UCA/LCAs you're supposed to be able to yank them. However, I don't see how they would hurt the car if you leave them on. Maybe Kevin would chime in on this?

As for the other diff/spline question... Do you have a transbrake? What tires are you running?

Another thought: If you're pulling the rear end to weld the axle tubes, what about 9" ends? Save the hassles of c-clip eliminators.
 

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Quad shocks - honestly I don't know. They're there to control wheel hop, but with good UCA/LCAs you're supposed to be able to yank them. However, I don't see how they would hurt the car if you leave them on. Maybe Kevin would chime in on this?
I would get rid of them. Usually there is no need for them if you have good bushings and good shocks. Once in a while when running a low profile tire wheel hop can occure but most of the time you won't need them.


hth's
ks
 

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Keeping the quad shock will also limit the size tire you can get in there. It's in the way.
 

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I got wheel hop with any radial tire i put on the car with or with out the quad shocks... tried adjusting pinion angle and the only thing that fixed it was a DOT slick... I have POS Mega bite Jr's and had HPM dual adj uppers... Throw em away...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the opinion's guys... looks like i wasnt too far off.


and Kevin... my suspension came in today... it was like christmas, stuff looks amazing. Great quality. Very impressed, thanks man
 

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I would my self put in a tru-trac or an eaton and put 9" ends on or at the very least c-clip elim's. Would hate to loose a c-clip at 125+.
 

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I have to disagree. if he's going to be launching hard, just welding the seams isn't going to cut it, better to have over kill then nothing at all.
I highly suggest the lower boxes to be reinforced but the uppers will hold just weld the seams all up.... But if you want extra security go uuper also.

I have beat the H** out of my rear suspension(several years) with Mid 1.30 60's with Kevins Uppers and All solid rear components with 5.14 gears with a T-brake with no ill effects on the upper mounting points.
 
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