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Discussion Starter #1
It?s about that time to tear down and replace. I replaced my stock stuff when I bought the car two years ago with the cheapie LMR arms. They worked however, but now I want to upgrade to something a little nicer for my occasional track time. Car is mostly street but I do go to the track whenever time allows. I?ve been looking that the team z relocated uppers, their street beast, maximum motorosports, and the j and m stuff. I have full length subframe connectors as well as battle boxes. Car has a t5 with a v1 and d.o.t. Mickeys. I cut a 1.65 60ft last time at the track and was pleased with that but, I know the control arms are not lol. Just looking for someone who has been through this and wondered if the team z stuff really works and what are the trade offs. Adjustable would be nice to be able to adjust for instant center, pinion angle etc, just didn?t know if it?s worth it my case. Thanks in advance
 

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If you want to go with relocated uppers, go with the brand that developed them - Baseline Suspensions, not the copycat. Kevin will help you set them up. That said, which tires are you running exactly? A radial isn't a good idea, especially with a stick - inconsistent, hard to hook and hard on parts. In my opinion, the only reason to run a radial is class restrictions or if you're a top-running heads-up team looking for that final edge and can afford to do tons track testing.

The old tried and true megabite jr's are pretty awesome, if you can find a set. I did some pretty thorough testing with them and picked up considerable ET with minimal work. I think a lot of people throw parts at a car and hope it works, usually with less than optimal results. The best thing to do is have someone video your car at the track and analyze the footage. You want to see the right amount of seperation, rate of front end rise, twist, etc. For example, I can literally watch the rear of the LTD get pushed down into the track on video, then see the car twist (I need to run about 30-40 psi in the passenger side airbag to counter it), and then watch the front pull up off the ground (it only pulls the front anywhere from 1-6"). It usually tracks straight and drama free (it has skated a bit).

My car weighs 3,440 lbs, runs 3.08 gears (wheelspeed is nuts if it spins, esp. with a 1.80 first gear), and with nothing more than Strange adjustable front struts, GT springs (my front end is heavier than most mustangs), cheap old autoparts store rear shocks, stock uppers (heavy duty rubber bushings), megabite jr's and an airbag runs consistant low 1.4 60' times, with a 1.41 best on street car test and tune nights with tiny 26x8.5" Hoosier slicks. A high 1.3 might be possible, but it's power/gear limited at this point. 3.27's would probably do wonders, but it's driven to and from the track and it only really pulls to 6,000-6,150 rpm.

If I was you, I'd do bias ply tires (unless you're running them already), then Strange 10 way adjustable front struts, an airbag and megabite jr's (if you can find them (in that order). In my opinion. anything else simply isn't needed until you start running low 9's/high 8's. And even then, probably not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you want to go with relocated uppers, go with the brand that developed them - Baseline Suspensions, not the copycat. Kevin will help you set them up. That said, which tires are you running exactly? A radial isn't a good idea, especially with a stick - inconsistent, hard to hook and hard on parts. In my opinion, the only reason to run a radial is class restrictions or if you're a top-running heads-up team looking for that final edge and can afford to do tons track testing.

The old tried and true megabite jr's are pretty awesome, if you can find a set. I did some pretty thorough testing with them and picked up considerable ET with minimal work. I think a lot of people throw parts at a car and hope it works, usually with less than optimal results. The best thing to do is have someone video your car at the track and analyze the footage. You want to see the right amount of seperation, rate of front end rise, twist, etc. For example, I can literally watch the rear of the LTD get pushed down into the track on video, then see the car twist (I need to run about 30-40 psi in the passenger side airbag to counter it), and then watch the front pull up off the ground (it only pulls the front anywhere from 1-6"). It usually tracks straight and drama free (it has skated a bit).

My car weighs 3,440 lbs, runs 3.08 gears (wheelspeed is nuts if it spins, esp. with a 1.80 first gear), and with nothing more than Strange adjustable front struts, GT springs (my front end is heavier than most mustangs), cheap old autoparts store rear shocks, stock uppers (heavy duty rubber bushings), megabite jr's and an airbag runs consistant low 1.4 60' times, with a 1.41 best on street car test and tune nights with tiny 26x8.5" Hoosier slicks. A high 1.3 might be possible, but it's power/gear limited at this point. 3.27's would probably do wonders, but it's driven to and from the track and it only really pulls to 6,000-6,150 rpm.

If I was you, I'd do bias ply tires (unless you're running them already), then Strange 10 way adjustable front struts, an airbag and megabite jr's (if you can find them (in that order). In my opinion. anything else simply isn't needed until you start running low 9's/high 8's. And even then, probably not.
I have 26x10.5 et street R tires. I installed the eibach drag spring kit, I have a bag in the right rear, Lakewood 90/10 up front and 50/50 in the rear and disconnected front sway bar. Car was night and day different then when I bought it with mostly stock struts, lowering springs, and tubular rear control arms. I am pretty sure the only thing I want to change as of now is the rear control arms. I wanted to see what others are using and what has worked (or not) I figured by the end of the month I’ll be buying something and the car will be tore down for the winter. Thanks for your input. BTW love your car. Kevin is great to talk to, and seems to be where I’ll probably end up buying my parts from.
 

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There's two ways to make those tires work on a stick car - slip the clutch out of the hole, or hit them hard. 1.65 is pretty decent, all things considered, btw. The problem is (and what you're looking to address) is anti squat. You'll no doubt get the best out of them by hitting them hard, but you need to drive the rear into the track on the hit - which is what the relocated uppers or megabites would do for you. You'll pretty much need as much anti squat as you can reasonably get. FWIW, I've never had a whole lot of luck with the Lakewood 90/10's - it's been a loooong time, but the Strange 10 ways seem to outperform them. Be careful, though - with those tires and the hit you'll need to give them, coupled with the radial nature of the tire, you might end up breaking stuff. A driveshaft loop would be a good idea if you don't already have one, but more often than not, I've seen axles break first.

Good luck, (maybe someone else will chime in with their opinion) and try to remember to update this thread when you get to hit the track again. Your season's probably over, we're just now getting the good air here.
 

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I have 26x10.5 et street R tires. I installed the eibach drag spring kit, I have a bag in the right rear, Lakewood 90/10 up front and 50/50 in the rear and disconnected front sway bar. Car was night and day different then when I bought it with mostly stock struts, lowering springs, and tubular rear control arms. I am pretty sure the only thing I want to change as of now is the rear control arms. I wanted to see what others are using and what has worked (or not) I figured by the end of the month I’ll be buying something and the car will be tore down for the winter. Thanks for your input. BTW love your car. Kevin is great to talk to, and seems to be where I’ll probably end up buying my parts from.
Hands down go with [email protected] I just purchased re-located UCA set (PL2)to update my current set up (solid,adjustable,stock location UPR) from him. His communication and guidance so far has been great. He will personally work with you on direction and set up. Got all of this from him before I even placed the order. Also, the information on his website is the best I've ever read.
 

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Years ago carrea made 2 step coilovers compression was around 400 rate springs and extension was around 136 with south side lower arms. Think Summit owns South side now. The shocks and spring combo eliminated the tires being pulled off the pavement. Cornering was vastly improved also.
Since Qa1 bought out Carrea they didnt continue whith that set up. I am going to try Qa1 double adjustable rear coil over shocks and springs and jack up compression higher than rebound to keep tires planted.
 

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If you want to go with relocated uppers, go with the brand that developed them - Baseline Suspensions, not the copycat. Kevin will help you set them up. That said, which tires are you running exactly? A radial isn't a good idea, especially with a stick - inconsistent, hard to hook and hard on parts. In my opinion, the only reason to run a radial is class restrictions or if you're a top-running heads-up team looking for that final edge and can afford to do tons track testing.

The old tried and true megabite jr's are pretty awesome, if you can find a set. I did some pretty thorough testing with them and picked up considerable ET with minimal work. I think a lot of people throw parts at a car and hope it works, usually with less than optimal results. The best thing to do is have someone video your car at the track and analyze the footage. You want to see the right amount of seperation, rate of front end rise, twist, etc. For example, I can literally watch the rear of the LTD get pushed down into the track on video, then see the car twist (I need to run about 30-40 psi in the passenger side airbag to counter it), and then watch the front pull up off the ground (it only pulls the front anywhere from 1-6"). It usually tracks straight and drama free (it has skated a bit).

My car weighs 3,440 lbs, runs 3.08 gears (wheelspeed is nuts if it spins, esp. with a 1.80 first gear), and with nothing more than Strange adjustable front struts, GT springs (my front end is heavier than most mustangs), cheap old autoparts store rear shocks, stock uppers (heavy duty rubber bushings), megabite jr's and an airbag runs consistant low 1.4 60' times, with a 1.41 best on street car test and tune nights with tiny 26x8.5" Hoosier slicks. A high 1.3 might be possible, but it's power/gear limited at this point. 3.27's would probably do wonders, but it's driven to and from the track and it only really pulls to 6,000-6,150 rpm.

If I was you, I'd do bias ply tires (unless you're running them already), then Strange 10 way adjustable front struts, an airbag and megabite jr's (if you can find them (in that order). In my opinion. anything else simply isn't needed until you start running low 9's/high 8's. And even then, probably not.
Old thread - great advice by Alex. This has been my experience as well - on my slow-ish stick car.
 

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They're all going to work pretty well for what you're wanting to do.. if you haven't all ready moved forward.

Getting wrapped around the axle about tire size is a touch pointless. I've seen 235/60 radials run in the 4.60's essentially your 26/8.5's There's more at play there, not the least of which is track prep and power management.

Go with a company you feel comfortable dealing with and feel you'd get good tech support after the fact.
 

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They're all going to work pretty well for what you're wanting to do.. if you haven't all ready moved forward.

Getting wrapped around the axle about tire size is a touch pointless. I've seen 235/60 radials run in the 4.60's essentially your 26/8.5's There's more at play there, not the least of which is track prep and power management.

Go with a company you feel comfortable dealing with and feel you'd get good tech support after the fact.
If you look at the rear suspension on that car (4.6's) you would notice it is NOT using a stock type (Mustang)rear suspension. It is a true 4-link coil over car. Big difference.
 

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If you look at the rear suspension on that car (4.6's) you would notice it is NOT using a stock type (Mustang)rear suspension. It is a true 4-link coil over car. Big difference.
You'd be quite mistaken... Granted, the car I'm thinking of does have coil-overs, but it's stock suspension. I texted him today 1.11 60' and 4.64 et.

You guy here will love it.. it's a highport headed 440 with a 4150 and a plate nitrous system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys for all your advise. I still haven’t decided yet, I have a pretty good idea that I’ll go with relocated uppers and whatever the guy I talk to recommends for the lowers. I liked the idea of the megabites but I didn’t feel like buying someone else’s hammered control arms lol. I did read that the height of the car has a lot to do with if the relocated uppers work well or not. My car pretty much sits stock height with the drag springs in it. I still drive a lot of the streets, will the relocated uppers have any negative effect on drivability any more than a solid heim joint control arms? Also I would like to keep the stock rear sway bar since that’s all I’m running at the moment lol.
 

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Thanks guys for all your advise. I still haven’t decided yet, I have a pretty good idea that I’ll go with relocated uppers and whatever the guy I talk to recommends for the lowers. I liked the idea of the megabites but I didn’t feel like buying someone else’s hammered control arms lol. I did read that the height of the car has a lot to do with if the relocated uppers work well or not. My car pretty much sits stock height with the drag springs in it. I still drive a lot of the streets, will the relocated uppers have any negative effect on drivability any more than a solid heim joint control arms? Also I would like to keep the stock rear sway bar since that’s all I’m running at the moment lol.
Get under your car a measure, then use the baseline suspension website, it's got a good plotter for you as far as what you're asking.

As far as drivability.. to me that's FAR too subjective of a thing for anyone else to answer but you. What you're willing to tolerate and deal with could be very different from someone else..

Regardless, any car that becomes more strip focused will suffer more and more as far as street driveability goes the closer it gets to being a race car.
 
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