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Discussion Starter #1
If a car spins off the line with 26" radials; would 28" be an improvement with it's larger footprint?
 

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I imagine it would if you adjust your rear gearing to account for the increased tire rollout. That's taking in account that the gearing was pretty close before the tire diameter change.
 

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It is more about power application with that tire size. The first 60' is critical for that small radial. If you get the 60' figured out you will wonder why anyone runs anything bigger....unless you are running quicker than 4.4's in the 1/8 mile.
 

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make the suspension do the work...
 
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A taller tire compared to rim diameter is always better on a rough or poor prep surface. The tire will bridge air gap spots better and the sidewall will also have more yield. You can also run less pressure and get more contact patch, plus that patch has more evenly distributed weight.

On tight prep and a smooth surface it means a whole lot less.

It's not much different than belt wrap on a pulley. The taller tire gives more "wrap".

The suspension geometry changes a lot with height. That can be a negative in a Fox chassis if you reduce spring height to get the same ride height or it rakes the car nose down compared to the rear.
 

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I would try and get the 26" to work for you. Play with tire pressure and launch RPM. What suspension work do you have in the rear?
I had 275/ 50s and went to 275/60s and yes the launch is "easier" but I will be going back to the 50s or a 26" stiff wall when they are used up. I feel I am leaving some behind with the taller tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would try and get the 26" to work for you. Play with tire pressure and launch RPM. What suspension work do you have in the rear?
I had 275/ 50s and went to 275/60s and yes the launch is "easier" but I will be going back to the 50s or a 26" stiff wall when they are used up. I feel I am leaving some behind with the taller tire.
The rear suspension needs to be addressed, but I wanted to try racing first before I did so.
Rear coils are H&R Race
Rear shocks are HD Bilstein
UCA's are double adjustable J&M
LCA's are J&M's with polyball on one end and spherical joints on other.
Stock swaybar.
 

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Looks like you have some decent stuff back there. They key is making sure it all works together.
the easiest place for me to start was set my tire pressure and check it before each run. Say 15 psi, then make sure your burn outs and staging procedure was consistent each pass. Increase launch RPM till you spin. Once you spin try airing down a PSI or 2 and see if you can start launching at higher RPMs with out bogging and they car still feeling stable at speed.
That is what I did before I began seeking help with suspension adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like you have some decent stuff back there. They key is making sure it all works together.
the easiest place for me to start was set my tire pressure and check it before each run. Say 15 psi, then make sure your burn outs and staging procedure was consistent each pass. Increase launch RPM till you spin. Once you spin try airing down a PSI or 2 and see if you can start launching at higher RPMs with out bogging and they car still feeling stable at speed.
That is what I did before I began seeking help with suspension adjustments.
I'll admit that I was nervous not knowing the whole procedure. I wanted to air down but didn't know if there was an air source to air back up. I later found out that there is. I'm sure that my rear coils and shocks are way too stiff as well.
 
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