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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm also cataloging this build on another site
but I thought I would share here as I'm sure there are several other people looking to do a similar thing.


A Brief History:
It all stared with my love for the Muscle Car, and my many muscle cars I have owned. it evolved into buying an LS based 2000 Camaro brand new from the factory, money paid upfront towards it... showed up with 4 miles on the odometer....and so my Love of the LS motor began.
it turned into a car that I modded, then sold because I had some Financial issues, then I bought another, and sold it to get a more "insurance friendly" car(I had a lot of tickets causing my insurance to be expensive..LOL)
then I bought another camaro... went for a crazy daily driver build....sort of... ended up turning it into a mostly race car that I drove when it was nice out......
went to gutting my car to lose weight, and couldnt seem to get enough weight out of it... ended up gutted....not really daily driver friendly at all...no AC, no wipers, and still not fast enough because it weighed 3800lbs

so I gave up on the camaro...
I've always wanted to Build an LSx Foxbody...and I start with a weight considerably less than what I could have ever gotten to on my camaro without some serious cutting.



so I started looking for a Foxbody for my project....
Planned on re-using as much stuff from my heavily modded camaro as possible to save a few dollars(engine, trans, center chunk, rear brake kit, ECU and Trans Controller...etc)

a buddy of mine was selling a Running 4 cylinder Foxbody Hatch for Cheap....so I bought it



Naturally... I commenced to Immediately gutting the thing...
the Motor and Trans came out....by force of course..





A little Engine Bay Cleanup... degreased, power washed.....

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ordered a Team-Z Metal Matrix K-Member without motor mounts, a Team-Z Lightweight 9" housing, Front Shock Coil Over's, 3/8" Aluminum Motor plate and 12ga Steel Midplate from AEICNC ( AEI: Precision. Efficiency. Strength. ), 2" Heddman LSx swap headers...













I also ordered a Fuse/Relay Panel from Racewire Solutions....( RaceWire Solutions - Your Source for Complete Custom Wiring )
Complete bumper to bumper wiring included...and I mean Everything... Headlights/Tail Lights/Hazzards/Turn Signals...all my relays for Nitrous solenoids(with Holley Progressive Drivers), fuel pumps, line lock, meth pump and solenoid, plus a whole slew of other inputs and outputs from the Holley and for the transmission
This Should keep everything nice and Clean... one bundle of wires to the Holley, one Bundle of wires to the Trans Controller, one bundle of wires to the dash, one to the engine, a separate one to the nitrous stuff...bundles to go to the front and to the rear...

Brian was one of the nicest guys to deal with... he's one of the few people in the automotive industry that actually understand what good customer service is...
I have nothing but Good things to say about him, and his product...
He asked questions about anything and everything to be able to design this to suit my needs and when I called him to ask about adding or changing something after I had thought about it all night....he was more than willing to make the change...his answer was always "that is no problem"









 

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Discussion Starter #3
started with a little cutting, gutting, assembly and welding...


Gutting of the interior.....and Removal of the Sound Deadening material


and a quick shot of Black Paint...




fabbing up the stock Fbody oil pan to clear the K-member








Some Torque Box Enforcement plate install... I also welded them in after I was done


assembled the 9"...Detroit Locker, 3.50 gear, 35 spline Axles...Gm 5x4.75 Bolt pattern


and Installed it...using the Stock Lower Control arms for now, and using Team-Z adjustable uppers made for the rearend.


I was able to Re-use my Qa1's from my camaro....
the Mustangs Use the same series, same style...part # is one digit off....
everything is identical except for the mustang shocks have another 1/2" of maximum travel...I wont miss the 1/2".. so.......





brackets that the Motor plate will bolt to...





I bolted the Motor plate, Motor, Headers, Midplate, and Transmission together to drop it into the car as one giant piece...
many thanks to a buddy of mine who told me to do it this way and then helped me to get it in the car












 

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Discussion Starter #4
the 2 issues I immediately saw... were how low the headers hang....
BUT.....
I also realized that I had no pressure on the coil overs yet...
they were set as loose as they could go and just barely not have slack....
so setting them tighter to get ride height correct will bring the car up a bit and create more ground clearance


2nd issue, was that the headers come very close to the transmission pan...the drivers side is at such an angle that I almost cant get at the drain plug, and I would have a challenging time getting the shift linkage on.


but I came up with a solution...again, thanks to my buddy who made a great suggestion...
His suggestion was to "flex" the headers outward... he had done this previously on another vehicle that had header issues... they had actually used a hydraulic press to push them outwards and let them flex...the result was pushing them way out, allowed them to bend a little and when they let go, the headers had bent enough to allow more space....
so I did the same...only with a conventional scissor jack


the result was that I now had some space where before it was pretty much touching the drain bolt.



I added some Thru the Floor Subframe Connectors...leaving out the outriggers for now as they will go in when the 10pt cage goes in.



I wasnt sure what I was going to do for a Transmission Crossmember yet as the 4L80 case that my TCI 6x uses is longer than a 4l60...which means that I couldnt just use an off teh shelf ready to go crossmember
was thinking about using the V8 Double Hump and just moving the brackets back... which honestly... seemed too flimsy to me...
then an Idea!
I had my old 4L80/TCI 6x crossmember from my camaro laying around...why not try to re-purpose it...

went to cutting, grinding, welding...
a little fittig testing as I was building it


the result....




and the Header Clearance...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
added my Battery Box, Shut off Switch, and Dual Nitrous Bottle Bracket.






Started in on the Sump for the Gas Tank...still need to add a vent/rollover valve...its on order...







and then I added some panels to mount my Holley Dominator, TCI Trans Controller, and Racewire Solutions Fuse/Relay Center on to....

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Added some Panels...
2 on the side of the Trans Tunnel for access to the trans cooler Line fittings
and one to cover the hole in the top of the trans tunnel...hopefully going to be able to mount my TCI Outlaw Shifter using that plate
Well Nuts are a Great invention that I decided to use for securing these panels





Mounted the 250 Amp Alternator Shut down relay
For anybody who is not familiar...The Alternator needs to have a direct connection to the Battery or you can fry stuff inside the Alternator(and sometimes it creates a nice spark show and a fire if conditions are right)
so to avoid this problem when you use a Remote Shut off Switch as required by the NHRA, you add a relay to be an interrupt between your alternator and your battery so when you kill the shut off switch, you also break the connection to the alternator, and it keep your system from backfeeding into the alternator and blowing stuff up...





I also mounted the Vacuum Pump Breather/separator can... I have a separate Catch can to mount still...Just havent gotten to it yet...and honestly, cant decide where I want to mount it at exactly..





I also worked on some wiring today...
Got my the rear side lighting done...Parking Lights, Brake Lights. Turn Signals, and, and Backup Lights...
wired up the Water Pump and the Fans today as well.
 

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Your work looks really good. I'm going to do this swap but I'm just going to go the simple route for the swap. You're basically rebuilding the whole car with new wiring all the way around. I like that.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your work looks really good. I'm going to do this swap but I'm just going to go the simple route for the swap. You're basically rebuilding the whole car with new wiring all the way around. I like that.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

thanks...
yeah.. its a head to toe cut and gut...
this engine and trans combo has been 10.97 in a 3800lb 2001 camaro..all motor without nitrous....

my plan is to throw in some black carpet, and a bunch of scottrod pieces to make it look good on the inside...

i have a set of Kirkey seats to throw in, but they arent going in till I finish all the wiring and get a Dash in the car(planning on a VFN 86 Mustang Dash)
 

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Awesome build! Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well... My Waste Oil Heater in the Garage quit working, no oil pumping up to the furnace portion... not sure why...and its been too cold to figure it out since the pump and oil container are both outside the garage.

so between Christmas, and the Cold weather we have been having here in Nashville....I havent gotten much done....
but I managed to do a few things with my limited semi warm time during the afternoon on the "nicer" days

Trans Cooler Mounted, and plumbing done










Fan Wiring Harness Complete






I also did my Headlight/Turn signal/Parking light wiring up front, and my Tail Light/Turn Signal/Backup Light wiring done in the rear.

and I worked on making my wiring inside the car look better....still looking for a way to make it better... not that it matters a lot because it will be well hidden by the dash....but still...I'll know its there.






and today I made a Coolant Crossover kit for my setup
I considered buying the kit that Nitrous Outlet makes, but My intake has a bunch of Nitrous plumbing Running under it, and theres just not any room for the way they have the distribution block in the middle....so I built my own version of it custom fit to my setup

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Kirkey Seats Assembled on Racecraft Brackets...
Ready to go in the car after I get all the Wiring done
 

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Sweet build so far!
 

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very nice build so far man!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
For those of you who dont know... I work as an Audio Engineer, and I have been out on tour since February....
just finishing up with the US leg of a Tour..and I will be Home sometime Sunday Night.....
so I went ahead and ordered some car parts so I can keep going on the Mustang Project...

Ordered a Flaming River Billet Power Steering Rack.
Ordered an Induction Solutions 4150 Nitrous Pop off Plate
Ordered some LED Tail Lights and New set of Headlights
Ordered a Maximum Motorsports Manual Brake Kit with plumbing and an improved geometry pedal.
having a buddy of mine make me a custom Aluminum Recirculating Coolant overflow tank
will be ordering some Fuel stuff sometime in the next few weeks hopefully as well....
and I'll have to measure to be sure of the proper length steering shaft to buy as well.

Really Just trying to get it to a point where I can Start the car before I have to Head out to the European Leg of the tour from Early May till the beginning of July

I left with the Wiring Halfway done... so I have to finish that stuff up as well...
might have to rig up some temporary switches to be able to make a few things happen..LOL...not ready to buy the Dash yet...still have a bunch of stuff to do on the inside of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Brackets look backwards

what brackets are you talking about.....

Seat brackets?
there really isnt a right or wrong way to put them on... you do it whatever way gets you the seat angle and adjustments you desire....
and that is the way they fit in my car.....
wont go in any other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
well...
the Flaming River Billet Power Steering rack showed up last week...so this weekend I made an attempt to install it...
BIG PROBLEM!
it doesnt work with the Team-Z K-member...


as you can see here, it hits the Tubular K-member quite a ways from being close to going on


in the Flaming River Instructions, they say you have to notch one of the motor mounts and part of the stock K-member for it to work......needless to say....I cant notch a Tubular K-memeber and still feel good about safety...and I have no motor mounts causing any interference...I even played around with it to see if I could use the offset bushings to make it work...and its just not physically possible.

so I sent the Flaming River rack back, and I ordered an AGR Performance steering rack from Summit.....
physically the same dimensions as my stock rack which fits just fine, but with a better steering box at a 15:1 ratio


I also started install of my Gas tank and fuel lines now that my Fuel pump and filters have shown up.

Made a plate to mount to the rear bumper support, and welded it in place.
attached the Fuel pump and Filters


came to the realization that the lowerst I could get the fuel pump, was going to be above the sump...almost above the whole gas tank...
so to fix the problems that would cause, I elected to buy a 15 gallon Fuel cell from Jegs and mount it in the Spare tire well...It means I have to find a new location for my Nitrous bottles...but whatever...







I also took the time to run my fuel lines down the passenger side of the car....






Effectively.....
Fuel cell is a dual 8an outlet...so I go dual 8 to a 12an Y, 12an-3/4npt thru the valve and back to 12an for the first filter
the pump (Holley 12-1800) is 10an in and out, so theres a 12an/10an O ring coupler between each filter and the pump
then I come out of the 2nd filter 10an and go all the way up to the engine bay...
at the engine bay, in the wheel well, I split back to two 8an lines to hit each fuel rail(8an), then I come out of each fuel rail(8an) to a Weldon A2040 and 8an out the bottom to return to the tank.

I still have to finish up the Fuel lines and routing up in the engine bay, waiting on a few fittings to show up yet....




I added a Maximum Motorsports Manual Brake Kit with a proportioning valve(cant see it here but its over on the passenger side in place of where the brake line coupler is)....and along with the Brake lines, I installed a Line lock



and I made a Bracket to mount the throttle cable onto the Throttle body....
I had a bracket that I bought from Jegs...It was anice piece, but honestly, it didnt line up the throttle cable with the throttle linkage for my 4150 throttle body
the bracket I made, puts the Throttle Cable in line with the linkage, and it also mounts under the throttle body as a plate to allow for the correct alignment of the linkage up and down as well.
AutoCad + Local Water Jet Shop = WIN!



 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Good news... the AGR Steering rack fits perfect....Just like the stock one did....what a concept!

one note to anybody else buying one of these...
it ships with some Poly bushings preinstalled...and there is a metal ferrule inside the busings....
well.. none of that #### fits... so buy some bushings of your own from energy suspension, and remove the ones they ship with it...
I bought my bushings from summit... they work perfectly.






finished up the Fuel line routing and the regulator mounting...was waiting on one fitting to arrive(it showed up this morning) so I could finish things up

everything in this corner is sort of a mess right now... lots of wiring things still hanging out not connected yet...but that will all clean up before its ready to run.






as you can see... things are starting to come together...




now I have to head out of town for work again for a couple of months again..LOL
 

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Very nice build! I would ditch the stock a-arms, UPR has nice ones for cheap...I bought 12in ones to pull the wheels in some.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok... sorry there havent been any updates in a while....
I work on the road for a living as an audio engineer, and basically havent been home since May..LOL


but since my last post, there have been a few changes in progress....
I've made the decision to stop filling nitrous bottles, and go for a more constant amount of power.....

I'm switching to a Supercharger....I bought an F1c, and it came with a bunch of pieces that I probably cant use on my car....but I'm going to reuse the bracket and just modify it and make it work with my setup because my setup is custom anyways....LOL

I basically bought a bunch of pieces parts while I was out on the Road over in Europe and South America over the summer, and when I got home I had Brown Box Christmas



The plan is F1c cog setup....spin the #### out of it....Air to Air (4" in and out)
Big Red BOV for throttle closing pressure release, and a Wastegate to control Boost levels...just changing springs for now, and running less boost on the street and turning it up at the track.....and down the road using the Holley Boost control to just do it at a flip of a switch


I had already planned on throwing in a set of Morel Link Bar lifters....so I bought them while I was out as well...

Thanks to a recommendation of a buddy who works at a race shop that always does well at the "Engine Masters" Challenges, I'm going to Lower compression by putting on a Thicker Head Gasket. (going to a Cometic .140)
we're going to make a slight change to the heads and lay back the chambers a little bit as well.
we should be able to get the compression from 11.2 down to around 9.3

its still going to be pump gas...and probably some meth at the track

its going to take a little bit of work to get things sorted out for the Supercharger....but I have a game plan, and its going to be pretty slick when I finally get it done.
 
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