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Discussion Starter #1
Me and my best friend put Pro3i Street/Strip LCAs on today.. what a difference!! Besides getting rid of plenty of noise (due to my stock arms rubber bushings ripping apart cuz of a defect in manuf. placement of the bolt sleeves and cuz they suck) they are terrific with the feel and performance of the car.

Less Noise, More Handling, The rear squats and launches better now, more power seems to be planted to the ground.. and no more wheel hop.

I haven't put it through any racing tests.. but I have gotten on it and thumbs up so far.

Will some better uppers make a difference too??

Later all.
 

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dude, I have been thinking about getting those for my 98. I really need some LCA's but I am a little lazy after installing my supercharger. My hands are still healing. What does the install invovle? Can you run through it so I can decide if I feel like getting of my lazy azz and doing it. Thanks!
 

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Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can and put jack stands under the rear subframes.

Jack the rear suspension up now so that it is just past the point of no longer hanging "free" and put jack stands under the rear axles. This keeps the rear axle assembly in place while you drop the LCAs loose.

Now put the floor jack under the spring perch on the LCA and take the weight off of it by lifting ever so slightly with the jack. Take out the rear bolt where the LCA meets the axle.

Drop the jack and the spring will fall lose. Move the spring and jack out of the way.

Unbolt the front LCA bolt (where it meets the torque box) and pull it out of the car.

Installation of new LCA is reverse of the above. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well the spring perch at the bottom and the spring groove/mount at the top hold the spring in place from moving left and right. Installing the shocks and such causes the LCA to sandwich the spring between its mounts.. which doesn't let the spring move once sandwiched..

If you open up the sandwich enough (by removing or lowering the LCA) you then have a free spring because it no longer contacts its mounting points.


In a sense the LCA and frame mount clamp down the spring. This is why when you lower your LCA you have to be careful that you lower it enough, and not let it pop out at you.
 

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Silver is right... the LCA sandwiches the spring into place, so when the LCA is removed the spring has to go somewhere. This isn't a big deal and definitely should not be a deterrant for someone thinking about doing aftermarket LCAs on their own car at home.

I mean, you just drop the tail end of the LCA slowly with a floor jack and the spring just comes out. Very simple. Very boring. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh.. did I mention that I have a broken leg with a rod in it and a cast on, and was still able to change the LCAs. EZ Job IMO.

I got to test them tonight. I raced a 91 Auto (slow), 89-93 couple with welds/skinnies (fast w/cams/lots of work), and a race truck with a weight of around 1500lbs (all fiberglass) -> And didn't get spanked at all by any of them with a car load of people.

Guess the arms are workin!! :joy: :joy:
 

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Pro3i's stuff is top quality indeed. I wish they made adjustable upper control arms, though. I think my pinion angle needs to be adjusted to get rid of an annoying whine back there.
 

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I got the Pro3i arms for Christmas. I immediately noticed improvements when launching and speed shifting. It just loves to squat and go now. They are defiantely a way better mod than my full length subframes.
 
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