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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is how the saga goes.
It all started when I took the drivers side of my 98 cobra up on a curb. Not paying attention. (yes I'm an IDIOT)
Trashed the aluminum 3.5" bogart rim. I think the aluminum rim and skinny tire took the blunt of the impact. I have coil-overs on the car too.
I tweeked the top of the strut shaft (Lakewood 90/10) and sent the HPM CC plate up through the Strut tower.(Not high enough to damage the hood) The plates are not damaged,the a-arm is not bent.
This is what I did to fix it. I oviously purchased a new rim. Took a hammer and reshaped the top of the strut tower. Used plates and bolts to sandwich the top of the tower flat and it actually came out perfect. To take things to the next level I made a template of the under side of the strut tower and had 1/8" steel plates cut and slotted to mach the tower and had them welded in under the strut tower on both sides of the car. Then alittle primer and paint job to make things look factory. Came out very nice.

I installed new rotors and brakes(Brembo replacement rotors and sport pads) along with 2 new tokico Alumina 5 way drag struts with my existing coil over kit and existing CC plates (HPM 3 BOLT). Luckily I had the tokico's sitting in a box new from 2 years ago.

When I put everything back together with the CC plates in their previous locations I was left with positive camber. I figured no biggie I will adjust the plates and take out the positive camber and go for an alignment. I now have the plates adjusted all the way and still have .75 positive camber on both sides.(less than 1 degree positive). If it was just the one side that I wrecked I would say ok but it is both side equally. Could it be the plates that were welded in underneath the towers? They both sat perfectly flat under the towers.
I need to move the plates back to their respective locations and figure out this positive camber condition because I have the plates all the way over will not work when trying to achieve my caster positioning. No band aids. If the welded plates are effecting the geometry I will remove them and get the MM plates. (I'm probably ordering the MM Plates anyway)

I have had the car for 11 years! I know the car well. I know most mustangs have negative camber issues for drag apps. I have combatted that buy elongating the holes on top of the strut towers many years ago. Worked great with the HPM CC plates. I was always able to set camber where ever desired for my application. (Drag Racing)

Why is the camber so positive? Can anybody tell me what I might have done? (or maybe didn't do)

I have tokico drag struts, a upr coil over kit with stock fox a-arm, Aluminum HPM CC Plates and a stock "K" Member. The only changes made after the incident were the tokico's and the 1/8" steel plates that were welded underneath the towers.

I wish I would have known the MM CC Plates had a big plate under them because I would not have welded the plates under the towers and just bought the MM plates and called it a day. What should I be looking at when I take it a part this time.

I'm never on this section of the corral. I come to this section because I respect your insight on suspension geometry.
HELP! Thank You Dan.
 

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Do the struts have any provision for camber adjustment? I.E. is one hole slotted? If so loosen your strut bolts and retighten while holding max camber. Then you can adjust camber to you spec with your CC plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No the strut has no provision for that but I could open it up myself. I just did not want to just do that without first seeing if the plates I welded on were a problem. This why I came here. I'm positive the plates are laying flat it their respective positions.
I guess I will open the strut hole up to compensate for the positive camber and hopefully the plate will come back toward the center of the tower hole so I can also get some much needed caster out of it also. Thanks for the reply.
I did not just want to start grinding right off the bat because after all these years with different suspensions I've had I never saw a positive issue. It was always the other way around and I would just open the top hole of the strut to take it out like you suggested. I figured take a breath and slow down and lets get a fresh perspective on this.
This is my second time around with the tokico's but the first time with coilovers on the tokico's. What happened was one of my tokico's went bad so I sent both back under warranty. While waiting for them I decided I would just try the lakewood 90/10's with the coil over kit. They worked well for me with a 150 spring rate. When the tokico's arrived I just put them off to the side brand new in the box. Now I'm trying them out with coil-overs and now this issue. So I'm not sure if it was the welded plates or the combo of the tokico's with the coil-overs.
I'm taking it all apart monday to see probably nothing wrong. Then I will grind alittle. Should I grind the top hole inward or the bottom hole out ward? They will both accomplish the same thing taking out the positive camber but which one would you guys do? Top or bottom.
I'm going to hold off to see if anybody else has any ideas of why this situation of positive camber when the norm would be negative in my situation. Thanks Corral!
 

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If you've had those struts on before without any camber issues then they shouldn't be the source of the problem. I was hoping for an easy fix for you. If you do widen the strut bolt holes, I would slot the top one in. That way the bottom one becomes a pivot and you can hold neg camber while tightening teh bolts by pushing the strut body towards the center of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you've had those struts on before without any camber issues then they shouldn't be the source of the problem. I was hoping for an easy fix for you. If you do widen the strut bolt holes, I would slot the top one in. That way the bottom one becomes a pivot and you can hold neg camber while tightening teh bolts by pushing the strut body towards the center of the car.


Thank for the advice! Much appreciated. Just got back from finishing up the install. Ground out the top hole of the strut inward and worked like a charm. I will get it aligned this week. I'm thinking about getting the MM CC Plates. Talk me into it.
Then let the fun begin:joy:
 

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Do it. I bought some "MM copy" plates several years ago and wish I would've just ponied up the money for the real deal. Mine still are usable but I've had to fix or replace striped/broken hardware too often.
 
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