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Discussion Starter #1
I swear to god the car doesnt want the nitrous. I fix the heater and the relay. go out to try it and Houston we have a problem, whats that u ask. now my electrical attpps unit wont light up. wtf, i checked the power wire, the ground, and the tps connections. I tried turning the adjustment screw. nothing works. I have it linked to a msd, then a relay, then directly to the solenoids, but when one thing works, the other doesn't. its driving me insane. any suggestions. I really have no ideas anymore. Im about to drive it into the east river. Please help, or give me some advice or something. All i want is one good hit. just one. had the bottle for about 5 months and i have not been able to get it to work ONCE. thanks<goes and crys in corner>
 

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I don't have the JMS kit, but my NOS kit gave me fits. I'm still have problems with an open circuit on my traction control and gauges. Your post is a little confusing.:confused: I'm not exactly sure what your talking about. I had problems with my weatherpack connectors. I guess the assembly person at NOS was sleeping at the crimping station, cause I had 2 wires pull out of the connectors. They weren't even soldered.:mad:
so I just cut of all of the pre-made connectors and mad my own.

Just try to get the bare essentials working: make sure the solenoid clicks when it has power, make sure your switches are working, etc.

sorry i'm not much help.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well thanks for responding anyway. The beef is i get no power to the solenoids because my electrical wot isn't working. I checked all four wirees that go out of it and they all seem fine. I also checked the fuse for it. Im also running a relay. the relay was wired wrong, and at that point the wot worked, but when i changed the relay to the way it was supposed to be the wot didn't work anymore. I think i screwed up the wot again. Just in case im wrong, can u give me suggestions. btw, for those with this kit, im using a msd window switch too, and the light on the wot doesn't come on at all, even after adjusting the screw
 

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Have you called their tech support?
 

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99svt32v said:
well thanks for responding anyway. The beef is i get no power to the solenoids because my electrical wot isn't working. I checked all four wirees that go out of it and they all seem fine. I also checked the fuse for it. Im also running a relay. the relay was wired wrong, and at that point the wot worked, but when i changed the relay to the way it was supposed to be the wot didn't work anymore. I think i screwed up the wot again. Just in case im wrong, can u give me suggestions. btw, for those with this kit, im using a msd window switch too, and the light on the wot doesn't come on at all, even after adjusting the screw
Don't know anything about nitros or anything like that....but I will suggest checking your grounds and that they are secure and on a grounded piece of the frame. Just my 1 1/2 cents.
 

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You have one of three issues......... no power to attpps or bad ground or bad connection at tps. The relay has nothing to do with the light coming on. The only wire to the relay is 5v signal out that trigers the relay. One of the three things I mentiond is your problem. Go to Radio Shack and buy yourself a cheap voltmeter($19). It will be the most help you ever had.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks. I already have the voltmeter. do i need to strip the wire to do this. I doubt its the tps or else the car wouldn't idle or drive properly. The ground is fine, i checked many times. the power looks good, have to unwrap the splicing. i think the actual unit just went again. I had this happen to me once already. Thank u for the help, this is frustrating as hell
 

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I have the JMS kit with ATPSS, NX bottle heater, and my own custom wiring harness. I had a problem with similar symptoms when I was putting the bottle heater on. My system would work with heater off but not on. The heater was drawing too much load for the ATPSS to function correctly. I wound up running power from two separate sources.

Have you got a diagram of your wiring? Without that I'd pull everything but the basics off. Get the simplest set of components working consistently. Then start adding components and checking everything that goes on carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well i know the bottle heater isn't the problem. I have the power for the msd and the attpps together. they both get power from the switch which gets it from a fuse. the switch still works. The wiring is all correct, i checked that many times. I really dont know what it could be. Do I have to strip the wire to test it with a multi meter, or just stick the tip in thru the insulation?
 

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You're going to have to make good contact with the conductor for accurate meter readings. That means getting a solid contact between the probe tip and conductor. That usually means stripping the wire if there's no other contact area. Trying to push the probe tip down into an insulated connector may work if the connector is big enough but it can be pretty hard to tell how good the contact is.

On suggestion I can make, especially if it's going to take some time to troubleshoot and if you think you might have to do it again in the future, is to get some splice connectors like the ones Radio Shack sells. You can crimp one on each wire you need to test without actually splicing a line onto it. This gives a permanent, somewhat protected contact area for testing.
 
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