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Discussion Starter #1
Right now, to combat play in my steering wheel, I am doing the following:

New 03 cobra A arms with offset delrin bushings and x2 balljoints
HR Race Springs (moving from my C springs)
New Nitto 555 265/35/18s
D&D Bumpsteer kit
Reinstall K member brace.
Align to max caster, 1.5 neg camber, 1/32" total toe in

The rest of my front suspension is:

Bilstein struts
Poly shortened swaybar endlinks
poly centered rack bushings
stock front bar

I know I am missing a major component that is now 10 years old, the ragjoint in the steering shaft, but has there been any new options besides the $250 solid joint steering shaft? I drove a Sube the other day, and the accuracy of steering input amazed me (although I don't know how I felt about the way the rest of it handled, although it was very modern and very smooth yet sporty), and getting back in my car, the feeling I get from the steering wheel just disgusts me.

Also, would there be any benefit to going to a new steering rack, say 99+ (I thought they revised the steering ratio in 99).
 

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Play in the steering wheel is frequently due to worn parts, the rag joint, rack and tie-rod ends being pretty suspect; could even be wheel bearings, other suspension joints.

Once you repair the problem, you might try aluminum rack bushings. They tighten up steering feel a bit and increase Ackerman a small amount. I didn't notice any increase in NVH. NOT a substitute for worn out parts.
 

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Chris_Red_V6 said:
Right now, to combat play in my steering wheel, I am doing the following:

New 03 cobra A arms with offset delrin bushings and x2 balljoints
HR Race Springs (moving from my C springs)
New Nitto 555 265/35/18s
D&D Bumpsteer kit
Reinstall K member brace.
Align to max caster, 1.5 neg camber, 1/32" total toe in

The rest of my front suspension is:

Bilstein struts
Poly shortened swaybar endlinks
poly centered rack bushings
stock front bar
Looks like you know all the places to look to eliminate any play.

I got a favor to ask. I assume you have CC plates since part of your plan includes "Align to max caster". After you run those new Nittos 6 or 7 thousand miles with max caster AND offset a-frame bushings come on back here and let us know how the tires are wearing.
 

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If you're running those offset bushings on an SN95, I would not max the caster out. That's a spec I commonly see (and give) for Foxbodies but SN95's can get more caster to begin with, and then you move the A-arms forward and get more, and even with the bumpsteer kit you may not be able to mitigate the resulting bumpsteer. So try it if you want but be prepared to back it off to 5 or 6 degrees.

I personally think the rag joint gets blamed too many times when it's not causing a problem but I have recently come to understand that the SN95 rag joint is of a different and likely more "failure"-prone design. So if it's eating at you...just go ahead and change it out now. It would suck if $250 was your minimum option.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've also heard inner tie rod ends, but how would one check that?

I agree, $250 sucks for precise steering feel.
 

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You might be able to get something from Maximum Motorsport like I used to get rid of the rag joint:



Photos were of my 1989 Rack, but did similar, when I got the 2000R rack in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
what would I ask for, that's probably exactly what I need.

How hard is it to install?
 

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Chris_Red_V6 said:
what would I ask for, that's probably exactly what I need.

How hard is it to install?

Call them on phone, and ask:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/steering.asp


To install, I had to "whittle" the end down with a dremmel. You need to carve a round shaft into a different shape (oval, with flat sides, sort'a). Not hard, just takes time with a grinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Would that even work on the 94-98 steering shaft? I know the 93- ones are different.

That would be awesome if it did.
 
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