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Discussion Starter #1
for $500, 98k miles. drive by wire throttle body, and wiring harness included. car is going to be carbed, so i'll be selling all i don't need.

here is why it was so cheap...




doh!

this is why you inspect what you buy. the exhaust manifold was covering up the crack pretty good, but i managed to spot it before i bought it. pulled the two pieces off with a screwdriver wedged in there.

the junkyard wasn't aware of this i think, because all the motors they sell have a warranty. but good thing i saw this before i drove the 3+ hours back home. got the motor for less than half price, when i was planning on ditching those heads anyway. only other problem is 2 coils have the snouts broken off, and they bent the valve cover hold down bolts and possibly the valve cover because they don't know how to properly lift an engine.

this is going in a fox coupe. any out of the ordinary tips/advice you guys have?
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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Yeah! Carb'ed is a good choice, now get some L92 heads mill them about .035, get some head gaskets in the mid .040's thickness to maintain quench and a custom valvetrain from a reputable shop. The downside is that most likely you'll have to notch the pistons with those heads but they are worth every damn penny! Also you are going to need the offset intake rocker arms(they are cheap even new ones) and the rail for them because the ones for the stock oem heads will not work. Replace the stock oem rod bolts if you don't trust them, personally I'm going to change mine.

Just ask...I have pretty much the combo that I suggested.
 

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Yeah! Carb'ed is a good choice, now get some L92 heads mill them about .035, get some head gaskets in the mid .040's thickness to maintain quench and a custom valvetrain from a reputable shop. The downside is that most likely you'll have to notch the pistons with those heads but they are worth every damn penny! Also you are going to need the offset intake rocker arms(they are cheap even new ones) and the rail for them because the ones for the stock oem heads will not work. Replace the stock oem rod bolts if you don't trust them, personally I'm going to change mine.

Just ask...I have pretty much the combo that I suggested.
i was considering the l92 heads, only thing that has me worried is i was told they have a very thin deck, and i'm going to be spraying this motor.

with the heads milled .035 with those gaskets what's your compression ratio? what does your car run?

are you going to get your rotating assembly rebalanced after you swap rod bolts?
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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i was considering the l92 heads, only thing that has me worried is i was told they have a very thin deck, and i'm going to be spraying this motor.

with the heads milled .035 with those gaskets what's your compression ratio? what does your car run?

are you going to get your rotating assembly rebalanced after you swap rod bolts?
Well since you are planning to spray it, I would still do the thinner gasket to gain a bit of compression since it'll be close to stock. My engine is not complete but I expect around 10:8.1. The engine will be open in a couple of days if possible. I want the car to run mid to low 10's in the 1/4 and be streetable.

No, I don't plan to rebalance after the bolt swap. Lots of people do this without any effects.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i plan to use the 4.6 motor mounts modified to work... will the 4.6 mounts fit in a regular 302/351 k member??? i'm not sure if it would move the engine forward or backward more than 4.6 k member, but if it moves it, which direction is it, and how much? manual brakes so the brake booster is out of the way...
 

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No, I don't plan to rebalance after the bolt swap. Lots of people do this without any effects.
are you going to resize the rods after you replace the bolts ? .. i have ARP ROD BOLTS and i get mixed answers if this needs to be done or not .
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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are you going to resize the rods after you replace the bolts ? .. i have ARP ROD BOLTS and i get mixed answers if this needs to be done or not .
Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
when are the stock rod bolts the weak link? or is this just a precautionary measure/piece of mind thing?
 

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when are the stock rod bolts the weak link? or is this just a precautionary measure/piece of mind thing?
Precautionary seems the correct word for it, many folks do the change just in case. I've heard and read about countless who have revved those engines over 7k rpms without a hitch, others with no such luck. So personally I decided to do it because my combo was designed with a peak of 7.2k rpms, and that's quite a bit of rpms for a V8 IMO. RPMS and/or detonation seems to be the no. 1 killer of any engine.
 

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Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
IS THAT WHAT YOU DID ?
 

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Have not done it yet because I don't have the time and my buddy is the other person who could do it but is too busy as well. That is exactly what I'm planning to do.
I called ARP, they said that it is recomended to have the rods resized , but he also said "he is required to tell people that for law suit purpose's", and has had customers use the one bolt at a time replacement with good results .
 

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Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
Never heard of this before, back in 2001 i just changed them all out at once, never had a problem. Isnt like you could really screw them up if you pull the caps off.
 

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If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
 

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If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
How do you know that? Camming has a lot to do with that along with the rest of the combo. That's a myth that has been busted over and over again.
 

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How do you know that? Camming has a lot to do with that along with the rest of the combo. That's a myth that has been busted over and over again.
How do i know that................well its simple been there done that! He's a little example, back in 2001 i ran a stock shortblock with basicly mild stock heads that i reworked, intake runner was right around 210cc. Combo was stock shortblock, mild port heads, 212/218 cam, vig4500 stall basic bolt ons. THEN switched to 237CC intake port heads, way better flow, over 50cfm on the intake sometimes 65cfm. Bottom end was alot less.......and that was with fuel injection. Would have been a TURD with a carb. It doesnt just apply to LS1 seen it first hand on 351 cleveland in a stang setup back in mid 90s.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
i'm not worried about bottom end. this will be a car that i drive to car meets, and spray at the track... not a daily by any means...
 
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