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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to test out my new tuning bender and been searching the rule book for general specs on diameter, wall thickness and such for making a tube parachute mount and bumper. 1 5/8 dom is what I see some manufactures using. I want to make this a quick disconnect piece, so the upright arm can disconnect. Anyone know off the top of their head? I’ll keep searching the rule book.....thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
All I’m finding is specs on chute anchor location, release cable location, and release cable mounting. I haven’t seen much else noting the materials. Would I be able to get away with 1 1/2” dom as a rear “bumper” and have the chute mount slide into it? Or did everyone just buy their kits?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I pulled all this off so far, added up to 42lbs. I’m wondering how much rigidity the actual cross beam bumper adds to the new edge cars. From what I see, it bolts to sheet metal and nothing else really, wonder if I can get away with running it as is until the bumper is made? I plan on using 3/8” plate with 1 1/2” dom as the new bumper with a tube to slide in parachute mount. So all that weight I just tore off will probably be put right back on!
 

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I'm guessing but my front bumper support is probably .06thk 4130 tubing. It's really thin. I had to turn my MIG down really low to weld some brackets onto it otherwise it would burn right through.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’m wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe that’s been my traction problems the whole time!!!
 

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I’m wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe that’s been my traction problems the whole time!!!
If the cage it done right there will be minimal twist but the more bars (within reason) the less twist.

ks
 

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I’m wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe that’s been my traction problems the whole time!!!
I don't think you are making enough HP to worry about twist...>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Challenge accepted!

Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I’ll pull the bumper again tonight and take a closer look, but there doesn’t seem to be much support tied into anything that would not rip off. Flexing may occur, but if the bar bolts onto sheet metal that’s held on by tack welds and body sealer, it may be effective in acting as a crumple zone for impact, not so much catching air in a chute and essentially stopping a car.
 

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Challenge accepted!

Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I’ll pull the bumper again tonight and take a closer look, but there doesn’t seem to be much support tied into anything that would not rip off. Flexing may occur, but if the bar bolts onto sheet metal that’s held on by tack welds and body sealer, it may be effective in acting as a crumple zone for impact, not so much catching air in a chute and essentially stopping a car.
The chute cord shouldn't be anchored to sheet metal. The chute mount can be since it's only holding it up.

ks
 

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The chute support bolts to the rear sub-frame. Not the same as sheet metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Tore apart the rear end again today, sure enough, it is bolted to the rear subframe.

Rear mount receiver will protrude rear bumper and the chute mount will be close to rear license plate, the cord will be on the mount itself where it slides into the receiver. That way when removing the chute, the whole system can come off in one piece.
 

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Our plan is to come off the rear brace for the back half bars which is welded in between the frame rails as far back as we could go. I'll gut the rear sheet metal that hangs down for the parachute mount to punch rearward with gusset braces. Gonna have to seal up the trunk area anyways.





Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Figured I’d post up my results so far, doesn’t really rate a build thread. But I wanted to build one and maybe save some money.

I started by bending a piece of 1 3/4” dom,
4F54E6F7-6215-4548-8C83-BDDB39C311CF_1541186015497.jpeg
Welded on 1/4” plates to mount to the stock location. B9E083B3-BCA6-474C-8A4B-64F4C32A1CC1_1541186309434.jpg
I also welded on 3 tabs for the lower bumper support. 8CCC3192-8E50-4850-9FC6-BAF25FDF9725_1541186221911.jpg
I didn’t like how other mounts only used the 4 bolts to mount the chute bar, so I used the existing bolt holes under the rear subframe to tie into with more support.
344B9E67-1E7B-4D77-901E-1567EB0D53FB_1541186399153.jpg
Hopefully I’ll get it completely welded tonight, so I can start on the slide in hitch for the upright chute mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
B4217FE5-69FC-42FE-BE10-0EA4A35C584D_1541373231490.jpg C3953E14-9BCD-4963-B759-1A0A4C9EABC4_1541373138724.jpg 650E508A-0B85-489E-A8AD-7F0C7315F5B8_1541372680171.jpg
Receiver finished this weekend and ready for powder coat. I think it’s plenty strong and overall lost 7.4lbs compared to stock steel bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used 1 1/2” dom .10 thickness for the slide in hitch. Shackle was made using 2” box tubing, 3/8.” I tapered it after cutting out the third side, and hole cut with the minimum 1/2” material surrounding it, also has 3/8” grade 8 with 1/2” sleeve as per nhra spec.

Instead of getting too fancy on bends for the upright, I decided to do a single 20 degree bend using 1 1/4” dom. Could have went smaller to save weight, but that was the smallest I had on hand.
 
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