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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
... and yes, MFE, i DID do a search!:)

so, i actually bought one (that's a maximum motorsports). can't wait till it's installed.

which brings me to my question:

the directions have you removing both rear springs, leveling control arms, plumb bobbing, etc. etc.

i know why it's important that it be aligned with the axle, yada yada. but it seems to me that, with the brackets that go over the frame rails angled as they are, there's really only one place it could fit.

do you REALLY need to remove the springs and do all that measuring?

thanks
 

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After looking at mine installed............I really don't think it's THAT important to the average street driver/regional level autox'r.

I'll probably get flamed for saying the above, but that is my observant opinion.

To me......if you mount the panhard bracket on the the one lower shock mount, and use a level finding device.......it should give you good enough refrence for bar mounting location.

Good luck with whatever you decide, and I hope the TECH GOD's go easy on me! :)
 

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I called and asked them that when installing mine.
they said same distance from the axle, when it's level.
so I just measured off a string off the axle.
I already had the springs and stuff off, I was also putting
on LCA's and coil overs. I agree with you.

MM has very thurough instructions, I like that, I'd rather error
on the side of caution.
 

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Mark,
I looked over the install instructions and I don't see why you couldn't do it without removing the springs.

Before you jack it up measure the distance from the top of the tires to the fender lip as well as the side distance they tell you to check in the instructions. That way you can simulate ride height by pulling the springs together with a tie down strap or something.

I have a 5/8" bit if you need to borrow it. I also have 4 aluminum pads you can drive it up on. They raise the car a couple of inches if that will give you enough room to adjust the bar height so you won't need to simulate ride height.

If I were you I would just bolt it in. It is overbuilt to begin with so welding is unecessary. I have my watts link bolted to the 4 threaded holes for the optional IRS mount and I only have 1/2" rod ends on the links. No problems after 40K.

Give me a holler if you need a hand.
 
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