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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been working on building a HPDE/auto-x car for a number of years now and I would like some opinions on what to do for the rear suspension.
The car is a 1985 notch with a 302, 5 speed, and 3.27 geared 8.8

Front suspension is as follows
stock '87 k-member
Motorsports aluminum/delrin bushings in fox length arms
CCM Ground Pounder CC plates
Front coil overs-CCM Ground Pounder road race kit(400lbs)
Jamex front struts
SVO spindles
MM spherical rack bushings
1/4" milled off of the back of the rack mounts
UPR bumpsteer kit

Rear suspension as it sits now.
Unfortunately I ordered some of these parts without any research so now I am redoing this setup.

Mathis anti-squat LCA mounts
BBK lowering springs (250 lbs)
Stock '87 sway bar
KYB gas a just shocks
MAC upper/lower control arms w poly bushings
New stock rubber bushings on the upper axle side

The car also has:
subframe connectors
4 wheel discs
Fuel cell
completely gutted
10 point roll cage
Battle boxes
2 point k-member brace
MM strut tower brace

I expect around 275-300 hp at the rear wheels.

My question is do I build the TA out of the Mathis book or fab up a 3 link?
I will also be making my own PHB.
Buying one is not a possibility.

I am a fairly good fabricator/welder and am a toolmaker/machinist by trade. I currently work in a fab shop so I have access to all the necessary tools to make just about anything.

Here is a link to some pics of my build.Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

Please feel free to comment on any other aspect of the build that may need addressing and thanks for the help!
 

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Depends how much work you want to do. The TA is already designed (Mathis, or you could just copy the Griggs or MM designs) and no real cutting on the car should be necessary. To do the 3-link properly will necessitate cutting and mounting the link in the cabin, plus more design work for the axle mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Depends how much work you want to do. The TA is already designed (Mathis, or you could just copy the Griggs or MM designs) and no real cutting on the car should be necessary. To do the 3-link properly will necessitate cutting and mounting the link in the cabin, plus more design work for the axle mount.
Amount of design or work doesn't bother me. I guess I would like to know what some of you think would work best given the front end setup and rear components(springs/shocks/swaybar) I currently have. I am currently making new rear LCA's with three piece delrin bushings on the chassis side and spherical bearings on the axle side.
 

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For what its worth I think the benefit of the torque arm improving the front end dive makes it a better choice. They both do a great job of letting the rear end rotate, but for me the torqe arm was the clear winner trying to stabalize the platform.
 

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If the rules allow it, a 3 link is a better suspension design. It is lighter than a T/A and offers allot more adjustability. I ran a three link on the 85 Mustang I used to run in C Prepared solo competition and I put one in my RX7 racecar.

T/A's are more common because allot of race classes do not allow for suspension pieces to enter the car's interior. Also they are a bolt on so that makes them an attractive upgrade. I'm not saying that T/A's don't work but they are a compromise.

I don't have any shots of my old Mustang's rear suspension but I do of my RX7. The principles are the same. I built adjustability into the lower control arm mounts and the third link mount on the chassis. This installation is on a clubracing car so the cover is made of steel and is big enough for easy service from below.

Rear axle housing - third link mount is on top of the axle housing. Lower control arm mounts have several adjustments


Panhard mount on the left side


Third link mount in the car


Third link cover in the car
hird link cover in the car

Panhard mount under the car
 

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LOL. I know how that goes... Currently helping a buddy put an LS1/T56 in his RX-7 along with an adapted 8.8 IRS. Seems there is never a lack of projects.
Now that SIR really IS bad ass! Is it an FD chassis or an FC?
 
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