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Discussion Starter #1
Currently building a foxbody with a dart 331, cnc'd tfs 225's, turbo cam,gt47 88mm turbo, 1"7/8 headers, air to water, etc! I am concerned about my trans, PA C4 that is rated for 1000hp but can it take the torque? Also debating a CSU blow through or EFI?? Suggestions and thoughts are appreciated! Any good suspension ideas?
 

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if your looking to keep the 3 speed would step up to a TH-400.. you will kill that c4 after you get the car sorted out..

I am going to be running a Brent Davis blowthru carb on mine.. On the carb or efi i would go with what you know the best.. I like EFI but i can do more tuning myself with a carb, so thats why i went back to blowthru..
 

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I plan on putting down 1000rwhp with my twin turbo 8.2 deck 363, And i'm gonna run a
c4 that i built. I hope its gonna hold, i put all the goodies in it and its full roller.
We'll see.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm a little concerned about the trans, if it holds up I will be happy as I spent some coin on a PTC converter! As for as tuning I'd rather trust someone else tuning it with EFI and for blow thru, Kevin at CSU has been great to deal with! I'm setting my goals to run 9.99 buyt all my buddy's laugh and say it will go much faster...time will tell! Suspension will be the key so I am hoping someone has a few good suggestions, kmember with coil overs and 200lb springs...not sure on the rear yet!
 

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The c4's will work, it's just a matter of how long.. the clutches in them things are super small and big power seems to be tough on them...
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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I have been running a C4 for about 2 years now.

I have a PA Supercomp with a transbrake. It is rated at 1000 hp. It comes with a lifetime guarantee which they are very good about honoring.

Their explanation is that they are good until high 8's or around 1000 hp in a car that is about my weight (3250).

What happens when they start to wear out is a flare on the 2-3 shift. This is actually more of a problem then it would seem and caused me a major fire drill in the spring break shoot out. It can allow the car to flare 200-400 rpm on the 2-3 shift. This was enough to fry my alternator and make the car hit the rev limiter making a slight dead spot when the car shifted.

The trans had around 75 passes on it and a moderate amount of street driving when the flare became an issue. They reported that the transmission was in good shape and just needed a routine refresh.

If your goal is high 9's, then I think you will be just fine for at least some period of time.

Your turbo and motor parts however, have the potential to make in the area of 1300-1500 hp if you push it to the limit and have everything worked out. The 1000 rwhp number seems to be one of those mystical break points that begins to stress a lot of parts...even if the turbo and some motor parts can handle it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm setting goals that are achievable, if I tell people it will go 8's and hits a low 10 then I look like a tool! Would be really happy to run an 8sec pass but want to says 9's as I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be a prob! Thanks for your input MCJ50!!
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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No problem.

That is the right attitude. Just keep chopping away over time and don't get frustrated.
 

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Mcj50 you're right, I see lots of people struggle to hit their goals! I've been in this industry for 15 years so I've had my fair share of cars but none close to this one! With the right people behind me, I'm sure I'll have some fun down the track! Do you mind pm'ing me your susp set up and what gears you're running.....air to water or air to air?
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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Turbo forums build link forwarded to your PM.

A/A, I'm a true street racer and adamant that adding ice does not belong in the class for any reason.

3.27 gears right now, although I have a set of 3.55's on the shelf that I may swap back in...it all depends on how hard you are going to spin the motor and how much converter slip you end up with.
 

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i ran a blowthru and liked it alot, but there was always something in the back of my head that said i was gonna blow it up. so now i will be running a classic fast. as far as a trans, if your gonna street drive the car, keep a c4 in it and be nice to it. put a really good cooler on it, i would run a water bath cooler. as for a liquid to air intercooler, thats what i am running now. there a little bit of a hassle but well worth it in my opinion. i would rather put ice in it than pistons.

good luck and lets see some pics of what your working with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i ran a blowthru and liked it alot, but there was always something in the back of my head that said i was gonna blow it up. so now i will be running a classic fast. as far as a trans, if your gonna street drive the car, keep a c4 in it and be nice to it. put a really good cooler on it, i would run a water bath cooler. as for a liquid to air intercooler, thats what i am running now. there a little bit of a hassle but well worth it in my opinion. i would rather put ice in it than pistons.

good luck and lets see some pics of what your working with.
Do you run the car on the street, if so do you run a heat exchanger? Any track or dyno #'s?
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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With about 1000 rwhp my c4 temps have been fine on the street and fine even with a 3 pass hotlap in truestreet. I have a very large front mounted B&M cooler. We plan on moving it under the car win a fan at some point. Driving doesn't create heat, using the transbrake does.

All of the things that require ice aren't consistently streetable, period.

If you want to drive on the street the right parts will allow you do do that without ice. I think with some tweaks I can squeak out a few more hp still with a relatively inexpensive a/a intercooler.

If it is a racecar, them you can obviously use iceboxes all over the place.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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About 26 psi.

Just another datapoint, the car went [email protected] with 8.8 psi while on the wastegates.

I think my current limiting factor is the intercooler. Planning on testing pressure drop across it post atco nmra.
 
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