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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after being a die hard N/A kinda guy all these years, I have decided to take a step into the turbocharged world.

My current car is a 1998 Cobra, with a 2003 Mach 1 Longblock. I put 96-98 Cobra Intake cams in it, and with bolt-ons it was making 346rwhp, and good enough for 11.6'[email protected] on Drag Radials with a 1.6 sixty foot.

This car is basically a full bolt-on car, with some suspension and the other "goodies" that push it more towards the "drag car" type.

I will try and keep this thread updated as much as possible with pictures, my opinion on the kit, dyno results, track results....etc. My goal is basically to run 8 PSI, run 10's with ease, and not destroy the T45 I am currently running.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Changes:

  • On3 Performance 4V Forward Facing Turbo Kit
  • ModularSpeed ported intake removed,stock intake installed
  • 30# Injectors Removed, 55# Injectors Installed
  • 90mm LMAF Removed, VMP HPX MAF Installed
  • Stock Thermostat/Housing Removed, Modified Cooling System Installed
  • 4.56 Gears Removed, 3.73 Gears Installed
  • 15x3.5 Billet Specialties/Skinnies Removed, 17" of the same wheel Installed
Initial Impressions

I got the kit a few days after ordering, and everything was there except a few fittings for the turbo/oil lines....and a fitting for the oil filter relocation. I was told that I would have them in a few days after I received the other parts....and that I did. I was contacted to ensure I received them as well.

I have had a few questions here and there about some stuff....and Chad and Mike have been very helpful along the way. They also gave me some recommendations on the install, which I appreciate very much.

Customer service up to this point, A+

The kit......... This kit, when in your hand is very nice looking. I am a VERY picky person, as the On3 gang can probably agree.... There are a few small things I see with this kit, which I feel I could probably upgrade, or "touch" up....but I don't really want to. I want to put the kit on, as it comes....and see what type of gains I get both on the dyno, the track...and the street.

I will be honest, I was very impressed initially.....by the quality of the components....but I know "time will tell" the truth. I am pretty confident I will not have any negative issues with this kit. I did NOT buy this kit to daily drive, nor to put 20,000+ miles on. I bought this kit to put on a car that sees 2,000 miles every 2 years, and stays in my garage 365 nights of the year.

If this kit performs to my expectations, I will be very pleased. And do not think for ONE MINUTE, that is there are small issues/hang ups along the way that I will complain.....as I realize I saved thousands by going this route. If I need to make a cut here, a weld there....or even re-do all the connections....I honestly do not care.


The kit came just about exactly as pictured:


Some Hardware


Gettin her ready


Tearin her apart



I was very impatient, installed these in a few hours after the kit arrived....so soon that I forgot to take pictures....my bad







Instructions tell me not to install headers before oil filter relocation....BLAH!



I did not use the hardware that came witht he kit for the header bolts....I used "Stage 8" Bolts as I have always had great luck with them.

I ALSO (which I may regret) decided to use the header gaskets that came with this kit....they are the cheapo type....but I want to use the kit as it is. Anyone including myself can make a kit work, or "better" than it comes....but I have a feeling that this stock motor wont last too long....so I will coat everything and use better stuff the next go around.

Here is the "GT" lower radiator hose I decided to use. I chose to get rid of the 4V style system, to create some additional clearance for the piping in that area. I am installing a Meziere Billet T-Stat housing, along with a Meziere 180deg T-Stat



VMP HPX Maf, VMP MAF Flange, VMP Harness to adapt the 05+ slot style MAF


Meziere Billet T-Sta housing, and T-Stat. AWESOME PART


I will have more as I go!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am using the 70mm On3 Turbo, .68 AR.

I am also using the On3 BOV, Gate.

I wanted to buy THE On3 kit....if I am not happy there are always upgrades for those components.
 

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I am using the 70mm On3 Turbo, .68 AR.

I am also using the On3 BOV, Gate.

I wanted to buy THE On3 kit....if I am not happy there are always upgrades for those components.
Yep, I actually sourced an older style 4v kit recently and am trying to find a 61 or 67mm to throw on it. Need to get with on3 and see if they can get me an intercooler and piping from TB to intercooler first.


Ill keep my eyes on your build! Good luck man.
 

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Looking good, keep pic coming !
 

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What is your brake setup (hydraulically speaking)? That looks like a manual rack and the master cylinder doesn't look OEM, I see no hydroboost lines up there. Did you go manual brakes as well?

Also, the lack of air conditioning. What else is done to this car that makes it different than a near-stock Cobra? These deletes should give you a lot more space for the pipes that come off the headers to the turbo (up-pipes) as you will have a lot more room in the bottom front areas near the timing cover. I doubt you still have the A/C or P/S pump to quickly mock up but I'm sure you generally know what they look like/about how big they are and could comment as to whether or not you believe the pipes would clear if they were still there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ive seen enough to know "how picky" you are with your car. lol. but im sure you will get the most out of the kit
had to go check to see if you had an "easy street" build on N2S yet. haha
Well, you are pretty accurate. I am very picky, and I usually get the most out of my combos. What's your name on N2S? Same?

I don't like making threads on the local forums for a few different reasons...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What is your brake setup (hydraulically speaking)? That looks like a manual rack and the master cylinder doesn't look OEM, I see no hydroboost lines up there. Did you go manual brakes as well?

Also, the lack of air conditioning. What else is done to this car that makes it different than a near-stock Cobra? These deletes should give you a lot more space for the pipes that come off the headers to the turbo (up-pipes) as you will have a lot more room in the bottom front areas near the timing cover. I doubt you still have the A/C or P/S pump to quickly mock up but I'm sure you generally know what they look like/about how big they are and could comment as to whether or not you believe the pipes would clear if they were still there.
Strange MC, and a Flaming River Manual Rack. Manual everything on the brake/steering side of things. Also deleted ABS unit.

The clearance on the PAss side (AC) is no issue.....there is a TON of clearance in that area. Clearance on the driver side, (PS) I am not quite sure of with a pump there. I am just about 100% positive that there would be no issues. It looks to be designed around those components pretty well IMO.

:salute:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Didn't get a lot done last night. Goal was to solder on the MAF, finish up the Oil Filter Relocation, Gap/Install Plugs, and tap/install the oil drain fitting to oil pan. I started working at 10:00....and discovered my solder is missing, and my punch/tap necessary for the oil drain are missing..... I moved recently, and believe those are at my other house...

I was able to install the new NGK TR6 plugs. They were pretty much "pre-gapped" at where I wanted them, but I regapped them anyways....




I also went ahead and cleaned the area where I will be installing the fitting for the oil drain. The hole needs to be 5/8" down from the top of the oil pan....and 1-7/8" to the right of the center of the second oil pan bolt (from left to right)

 

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Car looks good Kelly, question on that t-stat housing. Normally they have 3 ports dont they stock or am I going crazy here? How will that work?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Car looks good Kelly, question on that t-stat housing. Normally they have 3 ports dont they stock or am I going crazy here? How will that work?
Thanks!

You are correct. Stock stat has an "in", "out" and another "in" coming from the coolant crossover.

That additional "in" is a bypass.... As the coolant comes from the engine, it goes into the coolant crossover. When the stat is closed....the hose that goes from the crossover to the lower hose/stat is flowing coolant back through the engine on the other side of the stat (non radiator side) This prevents pressure build up, as well as recirculates warm coolant to reach operating temp quicker.

When deleting that hose going down to the stat/lower hose....you are getting rid of a "bypass"...therefore the pressure will build up is the stat is not open... The "fix" for that, is to drill holes in the stat, which I will be doing. So basically, if you delete the bypass/crossover to lower hose....you compensate by drilling holes in the stat.

I will have more pictures when it is finished. Alot of people seem confused. But it is cheap, easy and makes more much more room by deleting that long j-hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
5/8" down from the top of the pan, 1-7/8" to the right of the middle of the second oil pan bolt (looking from the front towards rear of car)



Grease, 3/8" NPT Tap, Punches, Gasket Maker, and the fitting for the pan:



9/16" Hole Punched



Grease Applied to Tap:



Grease doing its job, lots of metal shavings:



Fitting installed with lots of gasket maker:



Before I button this up, I will be putting the hose ont he fitting, and putting about half a quart of oil through it, to wash away the shaving to the bottom of pan....so when I drain the oil, hopefully any shavings that were missed get drained.
 

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Can't wait to see how this comes out and your numbers. I think your impression will decide whether I buy one or not. I can't find anybody else who has installed one of these kits
 
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