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on3 kit HELP NO BOOST!!!!!

9K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  2002mustanggt 
#1 · (Edited)
Just finished installing my ON3 kit on my 92hatch. Set the fuel pressure at 38psi and got her idling, the timing is currently set at 14 degrees. It has a naturally aspirated tune for 93 octane thru an SCT chip. I took her around the block, AND....... I'm not making any boost whatsoever with the motor loaded up. She ran really good on just the motor before 12.6 quarter, and really responsive. Now its running like a dog. I know it needs a tune for sure but I should be making some kind of boost???? My buddy suggested to check to see if the BOV was stuck open. Could the wg be stuck? I think I would hear that. I can hear the turbo spooling up which is making me think that the bov may be stuck. Any suggestions?? I bought the kit off another member and he had the WG mounted, and the BOV mounted. Could there be the wrong springs in them?? OR anything missing in the WG or BOV that I need to check. Help me think this through!!!:confused::confused::confused:

BOOST FIXED, NOW FOULING PLUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#2 ·
Which fitting on the wastegate is your vacuum line hook up to? It should be hooked to the side.

If you are good there, then pull the 8 or however many screws from the top of the wastegate and see which spring is in it.

Your bypass valve really can't stick open. Just look at it with the car turned off and see that the plunger is seated. At idle it will likely be open because of vacuum.

Do you have a boost gauge to confirm that you aren't seeing any manifold pressure?
 
#3 · (Edited)
Check vacuum on wastegate and bov, make sure turbo spinning , you not gonna get boost just driving unless you hit it . what is your vacuum at idle and when you drive, until you put load there will be no boost. If you bov stayed open then you should hear big rush or air comming out, wastegate stuck close will blow your motor as it will just give you #### load of boost. Check for leaks on cold and hot side.
 
#4 ·
check hoses for a major leak, or torn hose....
you can also check the WG and BOV for operation by using an air compressor rather then trying it with the vehicle. BOV is open at vac, and you dont need a BOV for the car to function.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, you've got a leak somewhere, and if you keep doing that without finding the actual problem, you'll also need a turbo. By hitting the throttle and seeing that there is no boost on the gauge, you also run a high risk of overspeeding the turbocharger and sending shiny sharp pieces flying....
 
#8 ·
if you can hear the turbo spool than you have a leak, most likely intake piping. check your intercooler connections etc. Its always the one you cant see or the hardest one to get to that you forget to tighten lol
 
#9 ·
10 vacuum is very low, do you have high lift cams? If you hear spool then you have leak on intercooler pipe , make sure to tighten all the coupler very tight. You might have damage intercooler leaking air, triple check for cold side leaks.
 
#16 ·
Just finished installing my ON3 kit on my 92hatch. Set the fuel pressure at 38psi and got her idling, the timing is currently set at 14 degrees. It has a naturally aspirated tune for 93 octane thru an SCT chip. I took her around the block, AND....... I'm not making any boost whatsoever with the motor loaded up. She ran really good on just the motor before 12.6 quarter, and really responsive. Now its running like a dog. I know it needs a tune for sure but I should be making some kind of boost???? My buddy suggested to check to see if the BOV was stuck open. Could the wg be stuck? I think I would hear that. I can hear the turbo spooling up which is making me think that the bov may be stuck. Any suggestions?? I bought the kit off another member and he had the WG mounted, and the BOV mounted. Could there be the wrong springs in them?? OR anything missing in the WG or BOV that I need to check. Help me think this through!!!:confused::confused::confused:
Jim, Becareful with the exsiting tune... and part throttle driving.. Under load it will make boost once issue is resolved, this in result likely will be to much timing even under part throttle with current tuning burned to chip. For testing you are better off to pull the chip and lock the timing to 18-20* to be safe. This will not be the best drivabilty doing so, but easier on the head gaskets. Best to have atleast base tuning for the new turbo setup, before in boost.
 
#18 ·
Chris, I plan on having it tuned as soon as bugs are worked out. I didn't want to take her to the tuner and spend 6 hours there when I could have just spent 2. I wanted to take it around the block and make sure it was going to run first. But I am wanting to be able to drive this to get it tuned. If I had to I could trailer it. So.... what would be the safest setup to get it there??? How much diff would there be in setting the timing to say like 10* as opposed to 18-20*? I am still learning, but I do have a good friend that is helping me out that has worked on stangs a lot. So your suggesting I pull the chip and lock the timing? How do I lock it?? Thanks for the help.:)
 
#19 ·
FOUND IT

Well of course I would have to take the front bumper cover off the car again. Coupler blew off the 180 pipe going into the intercooler. My car has the chrome radiator pipes upper and lower. I had to remove the upper and go with a stock to get the turbo to fit. Now I'm gonna remove the lower and go with a flexible to get the charge pipe out of the turbo to line up with the 180 so my couplers are straight. I should have everything back together tomorrow!! Thanks guys!
 
#20 ·
COOL, told you to look for cold side leaks ;)
 
#22 ·
position the t-bolt clamps so you can access with the bumper on. I always try to do that just in case a pipe was to come off.

Normally you will hear it pop but at least thats something simple. If you want, spray a tiny bit of hair spray on the coupler when putting it on. It wont come off and normally its hard to even get the coupler off after doing that. Its not really required but that way you know its not coming back off
 
#23 ·
Thanks Chad, I don't think she's coming off now. I went back through all the cold side and realigned and tightened everything snug. My lower radiator pipe was getting in the way. I purchased a flexible deal and that helped me line things up better. I still think I have an exhaust leak though. The V band from the turbo to the downpipe ended up stripping out. I'll get that resolved and then go get her tuned. I called Corey and left a message and he hasn't returned my call. I'll try him again tomorrow.
 
#25 ·
Boost fixed now fouling plugs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got the boost issue resolved. Now I fouled the crap out of the autolite 104s gapped at .035!!! You guys think it's a PMAS issue. Timing is set at 10*, I do have an exhaust leak on the headers but that will be resolved this week. I put the old NGK tr6's back in, drove it around the block on a stock tune and pulled #5 and she was starting to turn black. The car isn't idling the best, it acts like it is missing, and when driving it acts like it is missing badly. It's barely driveable. Anytime the motor is under any kind of load, it just misses like crazy. Can anybody offer any help!!!!!!!!
 
#26 ·
Is it tuned yet?
If not....at least get a mail order tune before driving it
Sounds like its pig rich..I think gap should be .28-.30 ish 1 or 2 step colder
It's most likely your o2's reading wrong because of the exh leaks Fix the leaks...tune it...make sure the cooling is good....drive the bag off of it
 
#27 ·
I've got an SCT chip, it had 4 tunes on it: 93oct NA, 93oct +nitrous, turbo blue NA, and stock. I set the chip on stock tune, forgot that my car had the o2s disconnected until now because of the tune it had. I only took it around the block just to see if it was 1/2 driveable, it has a PMAS calibrated for 42s and I was wondering if anybody has had any issues with these?? I've heard from a couple guys that they are usually pretty far off when installed. Also- does anybody know if these are directionally dependant when installed???? Right now the way it is in the pipe the electronics are facing the passenger side fender and the wiring harness plug is facing the ground. Is this right?? Could the PMAS be fooling the system and cause it to run really rich??? The car is going to the tuner as soon as I get the exhaust leaks fixed but I want to get her half right first!!!
 
#28 ·
.35 gap on plugs is way too high, when I was runing 8 psi was gap at 28 I think not sure, now at 20 psi I gap my TR7IX to .20
 
#30 · (Edited)
Do you have a wideband? If not, when running a turbo monitoring your AFR and fuel pressure is a must. I'm sure this is a tune issue thats causing you to run rich. Get some data on your air fuel ratios and report back.


forgot that my car had the o2s disconnected
This will cause your EEC to go crazy, without the sensors plugged in there is no feedback to how the fueling is doing. I would also try disconnecting your battery to clear the EEC's memory and connect your O2 sensors. Go very easy (no boost) on it till you can monitor the AFR's.
 
#31 ·
Do you have a wideband? If not, when running a turbo monitoring your AFR and fuel pressure is a must. I'm sure this is a tune issue thats causing you to run rich. Get some data on your air fuel ratios and report back.




This will cause your EEC to go crazy, without the sensors plugged in there is no feedback to how the fueling is doing. I would also try disconnecting your battery to clear the EEC's memory and connect your O2 sensors. Go very easy (no boost) on it till you can monitor the AFR's.
My LC-1 just came in on Friday and I haven't had a chance to get her installed. That will be going in this week. I'll let you know what the A/F looks like. The o2s I have are most likely junk. The existing wiring is disconnected to them, plus I know they have seen race fuel on more than one occasion. After I fix a header leak and install the wideband she's going on a trailer and then to the tuner. I just wanted to iron out as much as I could before hauling her away. Thanks
 
#32 ·
The o2s I have are most likely junk. The existing wiring is disconnected to them
This is a must to get them fixed. As I mentioned earlier the O2 sensors are the main way the EEC gets feedback of how the car is running. The LC1 is a great tool; I've used one with great results.
 
#38 ·
I was using Accel coil plugs but went back to stock.
 
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