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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just finished installing my ON3 kit on my 92hatch. Set the fuel pressure at 38psi and got her idling, the timing is currently set at 14 degrees. It has a naturally aspirated tune for 93 octane thru an SCT chip. I took her around the block, AND....... I'm not making any boost whatsoever with the motor loaded up. She ran really good on just the motor before 12.6 quarter, and really responsive. Now its running like a dog. I know it needs a tune for sure but I should be making some kind of boost???? My buddy suggested to check to see if the BOV was stuck open. Could the wg be stuck? I think I would hear that. I can hear the turbo spooling up which is making me think that the bov may be stuck. Any suggestions?? I bought the kit off another member and he had the WG mounted, and the BOV mounted. Could there be the wrong springs in them?? OR anything missing in the WG or BOV that I need to check. Help me think this through!!!:confused::confused::confused:

BOOST FIXED, NOW FOULING PLUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Which fitting on the wastegate is your vacuum line hook up to? It should be hooked to the side.

If you are good there, then pull the 8 or however many screws from the top of the wastegate and see which spring is in it.

Your bypass valve really can't stick open. Just look at it with the car turned off and see that the plunger is seated. At idle it will likely be open because of vacuum.

Do you have a boost gauge to confirm that you aren't seeing any manifold pressure?
 

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Check vacuum on wastegate and bov, make sure turbo spinning , you not gonna get boost just driving unless you hit it . what is your vacuum at idle and when you drive, until you put load there will be no boost. If you bov stayed open then you should hear big rush or air comming out, wastegate stuck close will blow your motor as it will just give you #### load of boost. Check for leaks on cold and hot side.
 

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check hoses for a major leak, or torn hose....
you can also check the WG and BOV for operation by using an air compressor rather then trying it with the vehicle. BOV is open at vac, and you dont need a BOV for the car to function.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
WG hooked up to the side port.
Vac/Boost gauge reading manifold pressure 0 boost under load. The guy that sold me the kit PMed me and said stock spring is in WG.
I will check the BOV
Which fitting on the wastegate is your vacuum line hook up to? It should be hooked to the side.

If you are good there, then pull the 8 or however many screws from the top of the wastegate and see which spring is in it.

Your bypass valve really can't stick open. Just look at it with the car turned off and see that the plunger is seated. At idle it will likely be open because of vacuum.

Do you have a boost gauge to confirm that you aren't seeing any manifold pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Turbo is spinning. I hit it and no boost. Vacuum at idle is about 10" Under load the vac goes to 0 just like it did when NA. I will also check for leaks - thanks
Check vacuum on wastegate and bov, make sure turbo spinning , you not gonna get boost just driving unless you hit it . what is your vacuum at idle and when you drive, until you put load there will be no boost. If you bov stayed open then you should hear big rush or air comming out, wastegate stuck close will blow your motor as it will just give you #### load of boost. Check for leaks on cold and hot side.
 

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Yeah, you've got a leak somewhere, and if you keep doing that without finding the actual problem, you'll also need a turbo. By hitting the throttle and seeing that there is no boost on the gauge, you also run a high risk of overspeeding the turbocharger and sending shiny sharp pieces flying....
 

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if you can hear the turbo spool than you have a leak, most likely intake piping. check your intercooler connections etc. Its always the one you cant see or the hardest one to get to that you forget to tighten lol
 

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10 vacuum is very low, do you have high lift cams? If you hear spool then you have leak on intercooler pipe , make sure to tighten all the coupler very tight. You might have damage intercooler leaking air, triple check for cold side leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
10 vacuum is very low, do you have high lift cams? If you hear spool then you have leak on intercooler pipe , make sure to tighten all the coupler very tight. You might have damage intercooler leaking air, triple check for cold side leaks.
It does have a beefy cam in it. I ran that kind of vacuum before I put the kit on. It always ran well before with the previous set up. I am def going to check all cold side tonight. Thanks
 

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It does have a beefy cam in it. I ran that kind of vacuum before I put the kit on. It always ran well before with the previous set up. I am def going to check all cold side tonight. Thanks
Let us know, I'm here to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does it matter a lot if I'm running chambered mufflers. I'm not sure what kind they are because there is no name on them but they sounded really good with the NA setup. Thinkin about running some dynomaxs or something.
 

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That wont effect the car making boost, they normally just hurt overall hp. Also make sure you have the fire ring installed into the wastegate. I have seen a few people not install the ring and will effect the car making boost
 

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Just finished installing my ON3 kit on my 92hatch. Set the fuel pressure at 38psi and got her idling, the timing is currently set at 14 degrees. It has a naturally aspirated tune for 93 octane thru an SCT chip. I took her around the block, AND....... I'm not making any boost whatsoever with the motor loaded up. She ran really good on just the motor before 12.6 quarter, and really responsive. Now its running like a dog. I know it needs a tune for sure but I should be making some kind of boost???? My buddy suggested to check to see if the BOV was stuck open. Could the wg be stuck? I think I would hear that. I can hear the turbo spooling up which is making me think that the bov may be stuck. Any suggestions?? I bought the kit off another member and he had the WG mounted, and the BOV mounted. Could there be the wrong springs in them?? OR anything missing in the WG or BOV that I need to check. Help me think this through!!!:confused::confused::confused:
Jim, Becareful with the exsiting tune... and part throttle driving.. Under load it will make boost once issue is resolved, this in result likely will be to much timing even under part throttle with current tuning burned to chip. For testing you are better off to pull the chip and lock the timing to 18-20* to be safe. This will not be the best drivabilty doing so, but easier on the head gaskets. Best to have atleast base tuning for the new turbo setup, before in boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That wont effect the car making boost, they normally just hurt overall hp. Also make sure you have the fire ring installed into the wastegate. I have seen a few people not install the ring and will effect the car making boost
Chad, what does the fire ring look like? Pretty sure it was installed, the guy I bought it off of was pretty competent. I'll check with him also.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Chris, I plan on having it tuned as soon as bugs are worked out. I didn't want to take her to the tuner and spend 6 hours there when I could have just spent 2. I wanted to take it around the block and make sure it was going to run first. But I am wanting to be able to drive this to get it tuned. If I had to I could trailer it. So.... what would be the safest setup to get it there??? How much diff would there be in setting the timing to say like 10* as opposed to 18-20*? I am still learning, but I do have a good friend that is helping me out that has worked on stangs a lot. So your suggesting I pull the chip and lock the timing? How do I lock it?? Thanks for the help.:)
Jim, Becareful with the exsiting tune... and part throttle driving.. Under load it will make boost once issue is resolved, this in result likely will be to much timing even under part throttle with current tuning burned to chip. For testing you are better off to pull the chip and lock the timing to 18-20* to be safe. This will not be the best drivabilty doing so, but easier on the head gaskets. Best to have atleast base tuning for the new turbo setup, before in boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
FOUND IT

Well of course I would have to take the front bumper cover off the car again. Coupler blew off the 180 pipe going into the intercooler. My car has the chrome radiator pipes upper and lower. I had to remove the upper and go with a stock to get the turbo to fit. Now I'm gonna remove the lower and go with a flexible to get the charge pipe out of the turbo to line up with the 180 so my couplers are straight. I should have everything back together tomorrow!! Thanks guys!
 

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COOL, told you to look for cold side leaks ;)
 
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