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Discussion Starter #1
Im in the process of dropping my 5.0 motor back in, I installed the FRPP oil pan and now the pan is hitting the rack. I have prothane mounts installed but still needmore room. Anybody know what offset rack bushings will work with the Griggs K member?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks,

I'm gonna try the Steeda bushings, they look similar to the griggs pieces only with the offset.
 

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Please let us know what will work with that pan without cutting anything. I am going with the Griggs K member and that new Ford pan this winter as well (only because I have the GR40 stuff in the back and bought it that way). Also, what kind of mods were needed to the fenders with their K member? I have read in previous threads that some fender mods are needed but they did not clarify what it was? I have my front fender lips rolled as much as they will go (88 Notch), is there anything else that needs to be done? I am running the C58's (17X9, with 255's up front). Thanks for any help with this. I would like to get everything I need before putting it in so there are no surprises.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Jack,

I didn't' think that those Steeda bushings would work. I re-installed my Ford convertible engine mounts with 1/2" of aluminum stock as a shim between the engine and the mount. I now have about 1/8" of clearance between the pan and the rack. I really don't want to cut the tubes off the k member if I don't have to. I read a lot of posts on corral that the Prothane mounts will raise the motor as much as 3/4", I don't know if they changed them but the Prothane engine mounts I purchased (part# 6-501-BL) are the exact same height as the Ford convertible mounts I already had.

ER - You will need to trim the lower front of your fenders and pull them out slightly for clearance. I run 255-40-17 R1's at the track. I also have 1991 fenders on my car, I believe Ford made the opening slightly bigger when they went to a 16" wheel.
 

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Thanks Jack,

I didn't' think that those Steeda bushings would work. I re-installed my Ford convertible engine mounts with 1/2" of aluminum stock as a shim between the engine and the mount. I now have about 1/8" of clearance between the pan and the rack. I really don't want to cut the tubes off the k member if I don't have to. I read a lot of posts on corral that the Prothane mounts will raise the motor as much as 3/4", I don't know if they changed them but the Prothane engine mounts I purchased (part# 6-501-BL) are the exact same height as the Ford convertible mounts I already had.

ER - You will need to trim the lower front of your fenders and pull them out slightly for clearance. I run 255-40-17 R1's at the track. I also have 1991 fenders on my car, I believe Ford made the opening slightly bigger when they went to a 16" wheel.
Yep. 91-93 have larger wheel openings on front fenders. And thus shorter bumper extensions.
I have griggs suspension in the front and the tyres did ryb when turned. I like the stock look so now ordered a set of newer fenders.
 

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Saleen153, are you saying you had to do that to the 91 fenders to get the 17 x 9's and 255's to clear or the type of fender I am running (the smaller 88)?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had to trim the fender, the valence, and the liner. We basically hacked away at it until it fit with the intention of making it look pretty later. With the tires on you really don't see it. I have the Saleen lower valence still visually intact on the outside.


 

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I'm using the MM K on my 86 with the zero-offset a-arms. This combo moves the axle line .75" forward. To fit 255/45/17 A6s with 95 Cobra wheels, I had to trim the fender about 1" tapered from the body trim-line down to the bottom where the extension fits (that is the 1" end). I used the later extensions as a template. Then used the Griggs instruction to cut the finder mount underneath where it attaches to the front fascia. It's just a cut that facilitates pulling-out the fender.
 
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