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I did 01 Bullitt pedals in mine. The gas and the dead pedal install easy, but clutch and brake are a PITA.

Only pic I have of the install right now as my car is under construction. I just installed the Max Motorsports hydroboost conversion, so I need to find a solution to mount the brake pedal pad on it's pad. That part comes off, so i'll figure it out at a later date. I wish MM made these to fit SN95 or fox pads so I could run an OEM pad and make it blend in. I may have to get creative with a welder.

Dead pedal is under the mess of wires...somewhere.

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That looks like a LOT of work. I look forward to hearing if it was worth it in your opinion.
 

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I did 01 Bullitt pedals in mine. The gas and the dead pedal install easy, but clutch and brake are a PITA.
I went looking around for a template, diagram, or measurements documenting how much you had to modify the Fox clutch and brake pedals to accommodate the Bullitt covers, but came up empty. I was surprised, as these things have been available for 19 years now. I put on some new Carpenter repop pedal covers until I could come up with some solid info. Do you have any tips?

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That looks like a LOT of work. I look forward to hearing if it was worth it in your opinion.

Was part of a LOT of other work. The pedals were a sort of "while i'm here". I was painting the engine bay, so I pulled all the wiring back, and also removed the heater box to put a new core and evap in, along with fixing the wiring harness and removing a 90's era alarm.


I went looking around for a template, diagram, or measurements documenting how much you had to modify the Fox clutch and brake pedals to accommodate the Bullitt covers, but came up empty. I was surprised, as these things have been available for 19 years now. I put on some new Carpenter repop pedal covers until I could come up with some solid info. Do you have any tips?
First tip is it can't be done in the car. Pedals need to come out. You can take the clutch pedal off though pretty easily in the car if you wanted, but brake needs to come out unless you feel like grinding and cutting at a odd angle inside the car.

FOr the clutch, I was able to trim one corner on to get it to fit. Tossed the pedal pad in boiling water, and was able to stretch it on. I used a bit of epoxy when I was sure of my final fit, and for the most part it feels solid. The brake pedal is at a different angle, and trimming it makes me think it won't have enough support to hole the pad that gets used the most, and hardest. I was going to grind and weld some "wings" on, but then I went with the MM hydroboost kit so now I have to figure out how to do that.

Fortunately the MM pedal pad comes off with two bolts (you can see them in the pic), so it can be removed and doesn't mess with the integrity of the pedal rod. I was thinking of buying an SN95 brake or clutch pedal, and just welding on similar mounting points to the MM pedal and going with that.

Honestly...its a HUGE PITA. Clutch pedal can probably be removed and trimmed and epoxied within an hour, but the brake pedal is the major issue.
 

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Honestly...its a HUGE PITA. Clutch pedal can probably be removed and trimmed and epoxied within an hour, but the brake pedal is the major issue.
I appreciate you detailed reply. It confirm my suspicions about the amount of work to get them mounted properly. I’ll revisit the clutch and brake covers if I have the pedal box out.

If only Ford Racing/FRPP would have tooled up a Fox compatible “Bullitt/Mach 1” clutch and brake pedal covers. They would have sold more than enough to cover their expenses. Daniel Carpenter or LMR, are you listening?
 

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If only Ford Racing/FRPP would have tooled up a Fox compatible “Bullitt/Mach 1” clutch and brake pedal covers. They would have sold more than enough to cover their expenses. Daniel Carpenter or LMR, are you listening?
I agree. They did their 03/04 CObra knob in the 5-spd pattern (which I have) so I always wondered why they just didn't do a Fox version of the bullitt pedal. Even if they decided to not do the AOD cars, all they had to do was tool up for 1 pedal pad for the fox clutch/brake and offered them in a kit with the existing gas/dead pedal and they would have sold many.

The Ford pedals for the SN95 are still available. If LMR tooled up a Fox brake/clutch, I think they would have a winner.
 
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There are other options
These that I posted above
—-snip—-
These (I have a set and they are very high quality)
—-snip—-
Those are very nice, but I had purchased the Bullitt pedal covers prior to your post. I do appreciate your bringing them to my attention. 👍🏻
 

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Those are very nice, but I had purchased the Bullitt pedal covers prior to your post. I do appreciate your bringing them to my attention.
Ahhh

The ones I posted are period correct and perfect for my build but the Bullitt pedals are the classiest looking by far. Making a set to fit the fox would be a huge seller...
 

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I also have had them a while. I put the gas/dead pedal on back in the early 2000s.

really with the MM hydroboost pedal it’s going to be a custom install no matter what pedal cover I install.
 

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I have the '01 cobra pedal covers (same as 03) on my 86. If you don't mind a screw or rivet holding on the brake/clutch covers, that is how I did it.
Your install looks great, thanks for posting the photo. I was wondering about going down that path, but hadn't pursued it. Perhaps a couple of button head Allen bolts with nylock nuts...

BTW, You did a great job on your interior! I like how the red stitching on the seats, wheel, boots tie it all together. You even kept your cruise control too!
 

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One of the odometer wheels on my factory gauge pod broke so I pulled the trigger on a Dakota Digital. Went with the GPS speed BIM as well so no worry about changing gears, tire size etc, you always have a correct speedo reading. I also run a Holley Terminator X and I was able to take the Holley alarm signal and run it through the DD so I have a fully functional check engine light. The DD package looks awesome!
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BTW, You did a great job on your interior! I like how the red stitching on the seats, wheel, boots tie it all together. You even kept your cruise control too!
Thanks. The cruise buttons are from an 01 cobra. They match the curvature of the wheel pretty closely and look better on this non-cruise wheel than the 86 cruise wheel which I don't care for at all. If you want, I can take some close-ups of the pedals so you can see the fasteners.
 

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One of the odometer wheels on my factory gauge pod broke so I pulled the trigger on a Dakota Digital. Went with the GPS speed BIM as well so no worry about changing gears, tire size etc, you always have a correct speedo reading. I also run a Holley Terminator X and I was able to take the Holley alarm signal and run it through the DD so I have a fully functional check engine light. The DD package looks awesome!
How accurate is the DD GPS speedo? The reason I ask is that I too have a GPS sensor set up on my electric Autometer speedo. But it runs about 20MPH too fast at 60MPH. And, if you go into a tunnel it stops working until you come out. Sometimes it takes 5 minutes or so to link to a signal. Not happy with this outcome. Thinking of going back to using a regular e-speedo sensor.
 

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Thanks. The cruise buttons are from an 01 cobra. They match the curvature of the wheel pretty closely and look better on this non-cruise wheel than the 86 cruise wheel which I don't care for at all. If you want, I can take some close-ups of the pedals so you can see the fasteners.
Close up images would be great! Thanks!
 

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Does DD do anything to make the gauges more accurate?
I run individual gauges for water temp and oil pressure , also separate senders for the Holley so there’s 3 reference points. Everything is within 1 degree / 1 psi of each other. Tach signal comes from MSD 6A since I also run a duel sync distributor, again both read the same. The actual senders are all LS type. You can run a shift light through the DD if need one.
 

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How accurate is the DD GPS speedo? The reason I ask is that I too have a GPS sensor set up on my electric Autometer speedo. But it runs about 20MPH too fast at 60MPH. And, if you go into a tunnel it stops working until you come out. Sometimes it takes 5 minutes or so to link to a signal. Not happy with this outcome. Thinking of going back to using a regular e-speedo sensor.
So far no issues, but I live in the desert so not much obstruction. The DD unit uses no less then 6 satellites for tracking. I run the Holley terminator x max so I get VSS signal from my tranny as well, both signals are within 1 mph of each other. Haven’t driven through any tunnels or parking garage yet so don’t know if I get signal loss or not.
 

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I was thinking about the DD unit

with all the hills, trees, everything else, doubt it would be worthwhile for me. I can't even get a cellphone to work properly most of the time, even when using the phone gps

also have a garmin unit I use for hunting and hiking and ATV'ing. Rare to get a good reliable signal unless on a hill top.
 
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