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Wish there was some sort of guide as to what mirrors came in what vehicles so people could target what they need.
 

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Installed a tilt column and Momo wheel recently. WOW what a difference in drivability.
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did a little work on my 93 coupe since I'm unemployed at the moment. It is 2.3T swapped (SVO). Originally had a modified convertible top switch set up to "pull" to open the garage door (wired to a relay) and then I had to remove the spring, and add a detent so that I could push the switch (and it would stay), for octane adjust (grounds the pin on the ecu). Wasn't hard. Well this car is a stripped down version, manual windows and locks, etc. But....I was chasing an electrical problem one day and noticed that the trunk had an electric release. I didn't know it was there the whole time. No switch behind the glove box door, just a plastic plug in the hole (factory). Did some digging & found the wire taped to the dash harness, pulled it back and jumped the two wires in the plug. Trunk popped. Yay. So today I found another convertible top switch (unmodified) and a fog light switch in my stash. Since this car is an LX, it did not have a fog light switch....but it did have the harness connector. I had another partial one attached to the switch, did not have to do any cutting. So I put the octane adjust in the fog light switch, and then moved the "push" function of the top switch to pop the trunk, and retained the "pull" feature to open the garage door.

Big deal. But it's a non performance upgrade isn't it? Although technically with the oct adj switch to "premium", it theoretically makes more power...although I can't tell it. Timing is slightly more aggressive. Only thing I can tell is that the turbo "hits" harder in premium than it does in "regular".

OH one other "mod" I did recently on the same 93 coupe. I put a 3G 130a alternator on the stock 2.3L bracket a long time ago, was a used alternator from the junkyard. It worked fine. Other day on the way home from a 400mi (one way) trip, I noticed that the battery light was flickering sometimes and the volt gauge was lower than usual. Still charging but it was odd. So I pulled the alternator and was going to replace it, but thought to myself, "these things are dirt simple". So I opened it up to find that the slip ring was trashed as were the brushes and bearings. Typical wear items. Ordered a $35 kit online, got it in, and rebuilt the alternator myself. Blasted the case, painted the windings, new slip ring, brush holder. Threw it on, charging fine again. Better than $200+ for a "new" alternator. But one thing that has always bothered me was that being that it's a little bone stock 4 cylinder and it has no power to speak of, when the fans and/or air conditioner would come on, the load spike on the alternator would seemingly almost kill the engine. It would drop a couple hundred RPM then recover within a second or two but when it came on, you KNEW it. When I ordered the alternator rebuild kit, they listed an LRC regulator. LRC=Load Response Control. This is a different regulator assembly that is specifically designed to delay the sudden loading on the alternator, made specifically for lower powered engines. I tossed that on Monday afternoon and went for a drive. Now when the A/C kicks on, or fans, I don't feel or hear a thing. Nice mod that I was not even aware of, and for you guys with 2.3's, both of you, if you have a 3G alternator, it's a wise investment to get the LRC (white) regulator. It literally bolts on with no other mods. It works with both the 95A baby 3G and the 130A 3G. The baby 3G fits the 2.3 bracket better where the 130 needs some grinding done.

projects for tomorrow, move the TV antenna to the other end of the house, trim the trees, mulch leaves, and then pull the upholstery off the seats of the '93 coupe and clean them again. They get nasty pretty quickly with what I do--or what I "did" (tractor mechanic).

OH...question....I have to get the steering wheel recovered on my '92 GT. Where's the best place to send it? None of the local upholstery shops are willing to do it; already tried.
 

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Wish there was some sort of guide as to what mirrors came in what vehicles so people could target what they need.

Look at the GM big SUV's for the basic Gentex comp/temp mirrors but not all of them had it. I have found that even the exact same year and trim, one would have a Onstar mirror (useless) and the other one would have the optional Gentex 313/etc mirror.

If you want orange/red display, some of the Toyota Tacoma's had orange (or did they call it red?). I want to say 04-06 Tacoma but don't hold me to it, and they were optional. I have only seen one in all the junkyard trips I've made. U can change the color by using video light filters if u need it a different color, I left all mine green because the factory dash lighting is all green (including the truck). GF's old grand prix had green mirror display but the dash backlighting was red, it was kinda odd but she liked it

For Comp/temp and map lights (great for convertibles), 04-ish Chrysler Sebring convertibles (sport?) had those, but they were also optional so not all of them had it. Gentex 313's had dual line display (comp and temp) and homelink. Those are somewhat rare, I got mine from a 2010 Infinity I think it was. Its in my truck and oddly enough, my garage door opener does NOT work with homelink. Figures. Hence....I put the garage door opener on a relay and wired it to my convertible top switch in the 93 coupe. Looks OEM and is a little more convenient, don't have to move the door opener remote from car to car just leave it velcro'd to the back of the dash out of sight.

There was also a "frameless" gentex that I bought, but I don't know what car it came out of--it was in the bed of a Ford Ranger along with a bunch of other stuff including some C4/C5 intermediate servos, of which one was an R servo and another a rare C servo. That was a great day at the junkyard. Same day found a 74 Monterrey, peeked under the hood and spied a set of PI 460 heads. Engine was clean so I figure it was rebuilt. Big deal. $60 for the pair of heads. D2OE castings :)

Thus, I find that no matter what "online" says, you still end up walking around the yards looking for one.

No matter, gentex is the brand you want...there is another brand that OEM's used (specifically Chrysler comes to mind) and they were junk, often failed. I've seen gentex used in everything from GM pickups to Benz to BMW and everything in between.

whatever gentex you get make sure you get some of the harness that goes to it, and it's wise to locate & grab the temp sensor too. On GM SUV's the sensor is "usually" behind the grille in the core support, easy to get at since most of the time the grills are all removed. Just cut the wires leaving enough length to work with, all you do is splice new wire to it and it's good to go. Or buy a new sensor, they aren't terribly expensive.
 

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OH...question....I have to get the steering wheel recovered on my '92 GT. Where's the best place to send it? None of the local upholstery shops are willing to do it; already tried.
I had mine done by Dallas Custom Steering Wheel - Dallas Custom Steering Wheel. Not cheap, but it looks nice. The other place I got a quote from was Craft Customs - Home. As I recall their prices were about the same, so I just chose one and went with it. With either place you can have them do all sorts of stuff - carbon fiber, wood, leather, whatever. A pretty popular mod on one of the other car forums I visit is to thicken up the rim with some foam padding before they re-wrap it in leather. I chose to keep the original thickness, just wrapped it in black leather with red stitching.

 

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This thread is a good one to keep alive.

What other "modern" comforts can be easily adapted to Fox bodies without being out of place? The Gentex mirror was a great idea. Very subtle as well as many people don't notice it unless i point it out. Any other ideas without getting too carried away?
 

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Stinger Performance offers fire bottle mounts for your factory Fox seats. These brackets fit on the rear of the seat frame and utilize existing factory mounting holes. No drilling was required on my ‘85-86 GT seats, a true bolt in. All required hardware was supplied. The vendor shipped promptly and the parts were well packed.

I suppose you could install these without pulling the seat out, but it isn’t a big deal to remove them. It also provided a great opportunity to lube the seat tracks.


Manufacturers Link:

https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/extinguisher-mounts-mustang

Brief Install Video:


View attachment 1062629 View attachment 1062630
this is a must for anyone who cares about their car

i'd also add a battery kill switch or some sort of a quick disconnect at the battery so you can easily kill power

had an electrical fire many moons ago that luckily didn't get out of control
 
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I went looking around and found the "Million-Mile" SSP speedometer was a mid-'92 switch through '93.

Source: Special Service Mustang.net Technical Section
do you know how many they made?

have flipped my share of 160mph police speedometers over the years, but have only come across one of the million-mile odometer versions, which is now in my car.
 

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do you know how many they made?
have flipped my share of 160mph police speedometers over the years, but have only come across one of the million-mile odometer versions, which is now in my car.
I've never seen any production figures for the "Certified Calibration" speedometers. You could even buy them as a service part at the dealer before they clamped down on odometer fraud.
 

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I took a road trip a few weeks ago and realized I needed to update the antique Garmin GPS sitting in the Mustang. I could buy a new GPS for what Garmin wanted to update the 2005 Nuvi that predated the Lifetime Maps program. Amazon came to the rescue with a refurb DriveSmart 51 LMT-S for $85.00. This unit features WiFi and Bluetooth. So now I have hands free calling via the Garmin too.

Now for the cool upgrade part! The new GPS supports the wireless Garmin BC40 back-up camera. Bluetooth pairing was effortless and the camera will respond to voice or menu commands to turn it on or off. Garmin includes the license plate bracket and mount

The hardwired BC30 backup camera is also an option, but the BC40 offers a higher quality image for less than $10 more.
I’m spoiled with back-up cameras in our other vehicles. I figure if it saves me from one backing incident it is money well spent.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1470380-REG/garmin_010_01866_00_bc_40_wireless_backup.html/

Amazon.com › Garmin-DriveSmart-...Web resultsGarmin Renewed DriveSmart 51 LMT-S 5" GPS Navigator ... - Amazon.com

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Any pics of it inside the car. Showing more how it “looks”.
 

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Not sure I need one in my coupe as it’s got pretty good visibility Already as you know. But I LIKE the idea.
 

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I wish I could find an easy “no drill” solution to mount a DD head unit in the stock location. The units that lack the CD player are quite compact but I’ve never been a fan of the screw in radio mounts for these cars.

modern head unit would make it easier to add a reverse camera, and integrate with phone for gps. Plus if it’s android you can probably connect to megasquirt and display some engine data on the screen.

I’ve seen some nice tablet mounts, like this. But this is a bit more “permanent” than id like

I don’t know details. Stole the pics off BookFace

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Ooooooh MAN that looks AweSoMe!!

That’s where the AC controls should have been anyway!
 

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Not sure I need one in my coupe as it’s got pretty good visibility. But I LIKE the idea.
A nicer solution would be a backup display in a Gentex mirror. We have an older Fusion Sport with this as an OEM option. My F150 has the large display screen in the dash. The cameras are no substitute for using your mirrors and looking around, but they offer a wide viewing angle that can be advantageous.

I probably don’t need a backup camera, but I was hooked after I found out the new GPS would support it. “Scope Creep” is a real problem.
 
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