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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
T56 is in. It’s a slow process when working solo. Still have to adjust it. Couple of small things to button up. MGW shifter, tap the +12V for reverse lockout module. Exhaust... A whole other debacle with Magnaflow 4-cat 441114...

I replaced the rear main seal while I was at. Installed a Mcleod lightened flywheel along with the RXT twin disc that came with the transmission.

I opted to swap the rear u-joint rather than the pinion flange. The Cobra style with the larger yolk would be nice but I’m not doing crazy hard launches so the u-joint that adapts the cobra drive line to the GT flange will suffice and was fast and cheaper.

Ran into an issue with the pivot stud. I got a new pivot stud but when it arrived, it was for the GT. That is too long. Started looking for the shorter stud for the T56 Cobra. It is NLA from Ford. Then started looking where to find a replacement. Found a bunch of threads that said you need the McLeod adjustable (or an adjustable) because it wants to be even shorter for lower release when running the RXT or RST twin disc. It was about 50/50 on those that said release was too high with fixed stud and those that said it was just fine. Due to my time constraints, I bit the bullet and just cleaned up the stud that was in there and moved forward. Hopefully, I am one of those that likes the release height.

Modifying the harness for the back up light and the reverse lockout module took some extra time but it’s all done right with, soldered connections, marine heat shrink over that and finally nice tape wrapped looms.

Drive line is in, torque arm is in. So the car is still on the lift awaiting resolution to the Magnaflow fitment issue but at least everything is in the car and out of the rain we are gonna have here all this week and through the weekend and as far out as my iPhone will show. Once that breaks, I can button up the remaining items and then install the new spider gears, 31 spline axles and cobra spec rear brakes.
 

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Are you doing the T56 install or is it being done at AED?

With a multidisc 10.5" clutch you really do need a shorter ball stud. You may also need to grind on the midplate for clutch fork clearance and shorten the quill. If some of these things are done correctly, you will damage the clutch and/or transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Yes, installed myself. The RXT twin disc came with the T56. It did have some mileage on it but I called McLeod to find out what the clutch(es) thickness is new. Both measured out well. There had been no evidence of any clearance issues. Regarding the stud, it is too late now. It is all back together. If I really hate the release point, I'll tear all back apart. It will be faster now that I know how to deal with the TA as a complete unit. Also, I don't have to deal with the bellhousing now that I have the 2 piece. Working solo, it wont be fast but it will be faster than last time.

Funny you mentioned AED. They are only about 5 miles from my house. I had them do my tuning after installing my Kenne Bell 2.1. It was cool watching Shawn dial it in. Really a master at his craft.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Just following up with something that I discussed in post # where I as talking about swapping my 28 spline Diff to a 31 spline. I suggested that I would just swap the spider gears. Well, I am an idiot. I did order the gears as noted in my quote. and the clutch pack rebuild kit,
Issue #1 - the gears i selected are for an F150 and similar trucks - WTF was I thinking?
Issue #2 - I found our the hard way that YOU CANNOT JUST SWAP THE SPIDER GEARS TO MAKE YOUR DIFF A 31 SPLINE!!!!!!

I am sort of comitted to this now that I have it all apart and purchased the Yukon axles. I just have to figure out what diff to go with now. Maybe I'll just buy a complete new 31 spline Trac-Loc. Pick-n-Pull probably has trucks (I dont know what other ford cars had 31 spline) that I can get a diff from. I just need to make sure what ever junk I buy is 100% compatible. Anyone already know the answer?

Since I am doing the work anyway, I'll upgrade to 31 spline gears and axles.

Option 1, just do a clutch pack / gear rebuild.
Spider gears 31 spline - Ford - AL32-4215-A ~$90.00
Clutch pack, Carbon Disc - Ford - M-4799-C ~107.00
Total: $197
 

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The cross shaft pin in a 28 spline differential is 0.75". In the 31 spline units the shaft is 0.875" diameter. That means that the spider gears are farther apart and the pin hole in the differential is the wrong diameter. Not gonna fit. When Ford designed the 31 spline unit, they changed everything in the system which was a torque limitation. The ring and pinion aren't, so they weren't changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I tried to go cheap. But as soon as I started looking at this yesterday, i loads of threads saying it can’t be done. Not sure why I missed it before.

Now I have a spider gear set that apparently is for the wrong diff. I haven’t looked to see what the difference is between the 31 spline gear set that I have versus the recommended gear set for the cobra differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I guess I need to correct myself yet again... Looking at American Muscle and their site show that the spider gears I have already purchased, AL3Z-4215-A, are a fit for the 03-04 Cobra 31 spline carrier. Looks like I am off to Pick-n-Pull to see if I can find a carrier.
 

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Silver, do you have an update?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I did end up going to Pick-n-Pull and pulled out a 31 spline carrier from an Explorer. It was about $90 ($75 + $15 core). Tore it all down and rebuilt with new bearings, carbon fiber clutch packs and new gears. Had I not already purchased the gears and clutch packs, I would have been happy to just buy a complete new Ford Performance Trac-Lok M-4204-F318C. You can find these for <$250. Everything is back together and seems to be working OK. Working on brake caliper upgrades now.
 
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