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Discussion Starter #1
Recently put motor in roller I baught. Everything is connected fuel pump comes on when key turned on. Lights and all accessories work. But no clicks no cranking. I noticed when I connected the positive cable to battery there was no spark that I normally see. Check all fuse links to ensure there was 12vs in the wire part of the fuse before and after fuse. Natural safety by-passed. Starter solenoid new. Any suggestions?
 

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is the starter solenoid energizing?

you have a neutral safety so this must be an auto, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have installed a new Solenoid, ignition switch, and bypassed the neutral clutch safety using a 10a fuse and inserting it into the connector unplugged from the clutch safety switch. Still the car only turns over now by jumping the solenoid. I should also say key on and coil wire away from coil against metal it does arc so I am getting fire. fuel pump comes on and goes off after a few seconds.


I accidentally pained my ground wire when I painted the engine bay it was still connected to fire wall. could that interfere with the grounding?
 

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what ground wire?

the solenoid ground is the back of the body that mounts to the apron

do you have battery power at the clutch safety switch in crank?

a neutral safety switch is located on the auto transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I meant clutch safety switch is by passed using a 10amp fuse. The ground wire the was painted is bolted to back of block near driver side and the firewall on same side. The ground wire from the fuel injector harness is attached to that ground as well. Battery has 12.55V
 

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do you have battery power at the clutch safety switch, both sides of the switch now?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Using multimeter key on it has 2.64v on one side and -2.64v on the other side. Is that low?
 

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you need battery voltage at both sides of the switch in crank

if you battery voltage is 2 volts, then its good

you better tell me how you have the leads attached

not having the leads correctly placed, is worse then testing all together.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The lead from the volt meter? I just plugged them into the connector ground on 1 side and pos. On the other then Vice versa checking for voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On the clutch safety switch I only disconnected the black connector with 3 wires. That is what I tested and used the fuse to bypass. I left the grey connector connected to the clutch switch
 

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the blade fuse has test openings on the back of it

leave it in place, do not disconnect

did you verify that you had a good ground on the one lead?

do you have a test light?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm purchasing a test light today. I only used the volt meter and took out the fuse and tested the connector direct.
 

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YOU ARE going to need to tell me exactly where you put the leads or testing will be useless
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The plan is to test both sided of the black 3wire connector that goes to clutch h safety switch with fuse in it key on
 

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Probed both sides of black connector from clutch safety switch test light did not light up. Verified test light had good ground and proved ignition switch two yellow wires and it lite up
confirm this at the solenoid, the small post, pull it up a bit and probe the post

the switch must be in crank
 

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you have an OPEN

somewhere from the ign switch to the clutch safety

did you butcher up the stock trans harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Should I just disconnect the stock harness and twist the three clutch safety wires together and unplug the harness all together
 
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