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I don't think you'll see too many folks with the NOSzle system already installed, but I know a few folks have them and are working feverishly.. Give it a few days..
 

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My intake blew right while i was dynoing the car. Pretty much it was my fualt due to a half a$$ed install the 1st time and the fuel solenoid was getting power sometimes. I posted some pics for your viewing pleasure.



THIS IS WHAT NOT TO DO

 

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Ahhhh, funny how these threads always turn into the old wet vs. dry debate somehow!!! I have heard mixed opinions about which makes more power. My car hauls ass and I have the #'s to prove it. Plus, those numbers were on a half bottle of juice with low pressure. I'd post my graph but I lost it. Also, I haven't been to the track since I installed my window switch which will prevent me from spinning all of 1st gear. Anyhow, I'd go for a dry kit, b/c I don't like the idea of dumping all that fuel into the intake. I have not talk to a person yet that has blown up their car using a dry kit. I have heard and seen tons of pictures of people blowing up intakes on wet kits. That is not to say that wet kits are bad and dry is good, but rather no form boost on stock motored cars is safe, just take as many safety precautions as possible, and have fun!! For a wet kit, a fuel pump is a must. Dry, you don't need one up to a 100 shot as long as it is tuned properly. Just my overall .02.
 

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I think people expect too much from the stock injectors. I'd rather go wet and rely on ONE fuel pump. Instead of relying on EIGHT injectors. I also agree with 99dropt, any time you MAKE power, there is a big risk something can go wrong. A wet kit by NX will make MORE torque plain and simple. No need to get upset. If and when I get time/money I'll dyno all the pills and post results.
 

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I really doubt the NX kit can make more or better hp and torque than the Holley Noszzle kit.
 

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PerformanceRed2000GT, did you even bother to read the thread? We're talking wet vs dry. The Noszle system is a wet kit.


BTW, I wonder why someone would want to make a WET direct port system? They could just plumb dry N2O into the cylinder. I guess WET is better!!!:evil:
 

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It sounds to me like people are expressing more opinion and personal preference than anything.



THIS IS WHAT NOT TO DO
AAAHHHH! dude, stop posting those pictures, you're making me nervous(even though I have a dry kit, I still hate to see broken stuff like that) I've got pictures of shattered pistons in my head now. :eek:

Well, so far we have one dyno chart of a wet kit. In a couple of weeks we should have a dyno sheet of a dry kit. That should help this debate. Juiced46, thanks for the info. :cool:
 

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willrace4food said:
Nitrouswarehouse.com is where I bought the kit from. John Stewart was the owner. He was also the co-founder of Nitrous Express. He recently passed away. I think they might still be taking orders. Otherwise Wynne Speed has prices that are pretty close to Nitrouswarehouse.

When did John Pass? I only talked to him a few months ago...that really sucks he was a great guy and knew everything you would ever need to know about nitrous....:(
 

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Latham99 said:
With exhaust, pulleys, and a K&N, pilled for a 100 shot, my GT put down 313rwhp~439 ftlbs. That's roughly 370hp ~ 520ft lbs at the crank (given a 15% drivetrain loss)I'd post the dynosheet, but I don't have a scanner.

With some tuning, 350rwhp 450ft lbs is doable..

Shoot, with some bottle pressure that's doable. I've got the NX 100 shot installed on my car along with Steeda pulleys and a MAC offroad H(HP mods, gears don't count) and my car went from 234hp and 278tq to 348hp and an incredible 499 ft/lb of tq. This was with 975psi in the bottle. That's a gain of 114hp and 221 tq:eek: to the wheels. The numbers would probably be even higher, but I dynoed with my et streets on so there was more drag.

I haven't seen any dry dynos, but I definitely believe that a dry shot won't exceed the numbers that a wet kit puts out.
 

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I just find this EXTREMELY interesting. Why do some people running an NX wet kit think blowing up an intake manifold is a part of the game?!?!

I mean, if you bought a propane grill that every-once-in-a-while just exploded and burned your house to the ground, would you think, "Well, I guess I should have used it further away from the house..."?

No way! You'd be the first guy downtown to get a class action lawsuit against the grill manufacturer for manufacturing a product that is inharently defective!

Hell, people are trying to sue gun manufacturers becaust guns kill people. But buying a kit that is assumed to cause engine damage every once in a while is OK?

I guess I will never understand some of you guys. :rolleyes:
 

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So are you saying that blowing up the intake is not a comon occurance with the wet kits? Or are you saying that when used conservatively it's not much of an issue. Your message seemed to be a bit ambiguous to me.
I'll be the first to say that the NX kit is impressive, shoot I'm hoping to buy one in Commerce tomorrow. But the fact is, alot of people are scattering the composite manifolds. I personally feel that it has alot more to do with operator error rather than a flawed design. But it does happen frequently.

I feel that with the proper use of the FP cutoff swith / window switch set between 3-3500 up to about 6k / and less than constant use a car will remain intact. But many people don't subscribe to my school of thought. I hesitate to say, but I think that most of these people are the ones shelling out their manifolds. And if they wanna do that I say go for it. Hell a new manifold can be bought from the classifieds for under $100, and that just means more juice for the people who like it.
 

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You people are not even reading the thread before you guys post! Juiced46 blew his intake because he f***** the wiring up. He ran the motor lean on the juice. His fuel solonoid was getting sporadic power. A testament to his inexperience with N2O. But then again, how many of YOU were running juice almost two years ago??? The same thing could happen to you dry guys should an injector go bad. A wet kit makes phenomenal amounts of torque. A wet kit will hit you harder than a dry kit. I'll dyno this car's 100 shot against ANY dry 100 shot out there. BUT we need to do it on the same day, same dyno, similar mods. If anyone wants to have a dyno day somewhere I'm>>>> DOWN<<<< SIGN ME UP!
 

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Ok I am going to tell all you guys a little story about what exactly happened and why my intake blew up.

First off it was my fault and some part on the 2 guys dynoing the car. The first pull on the 150 shot was done in january of 01. That is the redish brown pull as you can see that it was only 275hp on a 150shot!!! Right then and there we knew something was wrong. that was a FULL pass with just NITROUS, the fuel solenoid never opened!! We checked the wiring and everything seemed OK to what we "saw" So they decide to do another pull. This time, and this is why it blew, was because the guys at the shop (not the brightest and didnt want to listen to me) had the car on the dyno and they were holding the car at about 2500 RPMS at half throttle. then the other guy was tapping the throttle switch behind the throttle body and holding his hand on the solenoid to see if it was clicking. Now mind you while he is doing that it is spraying nitrous into the engine. So now the car is getting tiny bits of nitrous into the motor everytime he taps the switch. The bottle was still on. They said we didnt have to turn off the bottle and it was ok because he was just "tapping" the switch and it wasnt that much nitrous that it would hurt anything (morons) Well at the time i didnt know much about nitrous so i figured they are the tuners they know what they were talking about (yea right). Well he continued to tap the switch maybe 6-8 times to see if the fuel solenoid was working. Sometimes it was going on because the power wire was barely connected and getting current to the solenoid sometimes. So after a bunch of times pushing the throttle switch, he says its working and to do another pull. Ok so me the guy, and my friend are now standing at the fender of the car ready for the next pull. He brings it up to 3000 RPMS and floors it and BOOOOM!!!!! Bye bye intake. It made the loudest noise i have ever heard in my life, louder than a shotgun, and i know how loud those are. The bottom of the intake blew in to literally 50 little pieces, as u can see from the damage in the pics, it wasnt good. Needless to say I wasnt very happy about it.

After all that happened i got a new intake thats to my buddy here on corral bobn that sent it to me. Since then i rewired everything CORRECTLY and ran the 150 shot atleast a bottle a week if not 2 during the spring/summer months with 0 problems.

now we can all argue on which kit is better which one makes more power and blah blah blah. it doesnt matter. A wet kit will make more TQ. If it didnt then why in the heck would they even have made a wet kit. Everyone would want to buy a dry kit right?? There would be no need for a wet kit. People have had problems with their intake blowing to smithereens just like me but it was not the kits fault it was THE OPERATORS ERROR. I will go with a wet kit any day over a dry kit.

Also, how come directport kits are Wet? Im not just talking about the Nosszle system im talking about any muscle car. They are all wet. Here is a link for you

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/mm_efi_dp.htm

This looks wet to me to.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/NOS/foggers.html

Wetter is BETTER!!
 

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I did read the thread

It just seemed like people were saying that NX is the only kit worth a damn to own. I think the Holley kit is better but I am biased. I don't see how you thought I didn't read the thread. Maybe you didn't.
 

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No harm, no foul. BUT, if you did read ANY of the posts I wrote, NONE of them say ANYTHING about NX being better than the Noszle system. Hell, I want that kit bad, with some mods of course. I would keep the NX heater because the NOS one SUCKS! I would also want the beefier NX solonoids too! Can you guess why? In short, the only Holley product I want, are the little machined pieces that the injectors sit in, and the distribution block and lines. I do envy you though, you already have it. I want to try and buy only the things I need. L8R
 

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the "debate"

Hey, I hope after all the opinions you've gotten that you'll still take the time to read this. I'm looking into the NX dry kit(#20922). I plan on running it with all the bells and whistles. I'm not here to debate dry vs wet or to cry about someone else's post. They are all helpful but opinions are like aholes, everyone has one and they stink. None the less, it breaks down to dry vs wet. Wet is awesome WHEN ran correctly. That means professionally installed and ran by a knowledgable driver. Both require a constant supervision but the wet rquires more upkeep to prevent puddling(bad) The wet produces larger shots and are more reliable as far as output. If you run a 100 shot it will be pretty damn close to 100 hp. Now the dry kit which I am going to use is more for me. It's easier to install and is very reliable at low shots. I will only run a 100 shot so I'm not changing anything out except for the plugs and timing. Anything more and I'll be changing out the fuel system. For a 100 shot it will actually produce about 75-85. The dry kit is "safer" in that you don't have to worry about the right mixture or puddling effect. I'm on a strict budget so dry is the way to go FOR ME. You still must monitor pressure and the Hobbs switch is a must. Feel free to pm me for any other questions on our year. Hope I've given at least some helpful hints.
P.S. For those of you who like to bash other people on the forums, stick to the ricer community, we don't need you. These are here for HELPFUL advice!
 

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There is a good article in the new NMRA Race Pages about the Holley system. They installed the 100 shot on a stock GT and got 380+hp and 500+ ft lbs tq at the wheels.
 

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I realize you will all ignore this question yet again, but WHERE CAN YOU BUY THE NOS dry kit?

Where CANT you buy it hehe:eek:

Summit is a good choice for finding NOS products. As an example.


EDIT=Here ya go direct from Summit
NOS-05116 Ford: 1999-2001 4.6L Mustang GT/Cobra, dry design, 75 to 150 HP, EFI nitrous oxide system ... $719.95
 

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But then again, how many of YOU were running juice almost two years ago???
I was running nitrous before then.


The same thing could happen to you dry guys should an injector go bad.
Not really. Injector goes bad, you typically burn a plug. No massive manifold explosion. Worst that's ever happened to my dry kit was I blew up a factory air filter box once.


A wet kit makes phenomenal amounts of torque.
So do dry kits.


A wet kit will hit you harder than a dry kit.
BS, pure and simple.


I'll dyno this car's 100 shot against ANY dry 100 shot out there. BUT we need to do it on the same day, same dyno, similar mods. If anyone wants to have a dyno day somewhere I'm>>>> DOWN<<<< SIGN ME UP!
Bring it down to Atlanta. I'll throw some 100 hp jets into my custom NOS dry kit (you know, the ones with the crappy solenoids and nozzles, etc, LOL) and we can see what happens. My 175 hp dry shot made 180 rwhp (it's a .073 jet). Overall, car went from 244 rwhp and 280 ft-lbs torque, on a STOCK 5.0 engine, to 424 rwhp and 540 ft-lbs torque. Lets see, that's 499 hp and 635 ft-lbs of torque at the flywheel on a STOCK 5.0, with a dry kit. Does your wet kit even come close to that, even after it's been tweaked?

Really, the amount of torque it puts out depends on what engine RPM you spray it at, and the distance from the nitrous nozzle to the intake valves. More distance means it cools the incoming air more. That's what picks up torque.
 
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