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Dean Scheidt
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

The white 1/8 mile timeslip is at the local track at an altitude of 1,200 ft. The yellow quarter-mile slip is at Richmond Dragway which is 80ft above sea level.



What are the next simple things I can do to get closer to either 7.50 in the eighth or 11.99 in the quarter? Without a power adder; naturally aspirated only. My current combo is near the rev-limiter at the end of the quarter so more gear is out of the question.

I'm trying to maximize my current combo before moving to the next major level, which will probably be a Kenne-bell Blowzilla/Flowzilla. That's a ways off though so I want to continue to widdle my et down as low as possible.

My car has a stock bottom end with the following:
  • Trickflow Twisted Wedge street heads
  • Ported GT-40 intake (original tubular style with ported lower)
  • B-303 cam with 1.7 rockers
  • 75mm Pro-M mass air
  • 65mm Ford throttle body
  • 1-5/8" longtubes with Mac Prochamber and 3-chamber Flowmasters
  • Built AOD with Lentech valvebody and 3200 stall non-lockup converter
  • 4.10 gears
  • 275/50-15 Mickey Thompson drag radials
  • Skinny front tires
  • A/C delete and manual steering
  • Aluminum driveshaft
  • Stock rear springs and 4-cyl front springs
  • 50/50 rear shocks and 30/70 front struts
My car weighs 3335 lbs with me in it. It's been dyno'd twice a different dynos and put down 250 rwhp at one and 258 rwhp at the other. I've tried shifting at various rpms between 5,600 and 6,000.

Thanks for reading all of this and I'll appreciate any suggestions that will help me reach my goal.

Thank you,
Dean
 

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IF it were me...and had the current combo you had.. I'd put a 100 shot on it and call it a day. Its going to be hard to break 11's with a dyno proven 250-258 rwhp IMO. Honestly, I think with what the car weighs, at that power level your about to the limits of what your going to get out of it.
 

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How serious are you? If you haven't already, empty the trunk of the spare tire and jack. Loose the entire back seat along with the passenger seat. Pull all the sound deadner from behind all the plastic panels in the hatch area. Pull the nose cone off and remove the front bumper and bumper supports, windshield washer bottle, horns, and the insulatio on top of the inner wheel wells. Pull the front sway bar. You are going to have to get as light as possible. Pull the water pump and cut off every other vane on the impeller. If you have an adjustable valve train, try to adjust the rockers while the car is running to 1/4 turn past zero lash. Wait for the best weather you can and have fun.

Lee
 

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Simple things...... Weight reduction
 

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dynomax ultra flows dumped, 75mm throttlebody, have the car tuned if it hasnt already.
mufflers alone would probably get you close to a tenth or more.
 

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Dean Scheidt
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Discussion Starter #6
dynomax ultra flows dumped, 75mm throttlebody, have the car tuned if it hasnt already.
mufflers alone would probably get you close to a tenth or more.
I'm already considering a 70mm AccuFab throttle body, although most discussions about throttle bodies would indicate I'm just fine with the 65mm I currently have.

How much do you really think I can gain with a tune (assuming you mean dyno tuning with a chip or something)? I didn't think that a fairly low horsepower N/A car would gain much of anything by dyno tuning.

Are the Dynomax ultra flows that much better for performance than my 3-chamber Flowmasters? Do you know from personal experience? If I can gain a solid tenth or more by changing my mufflers, I'll give it a try. Hopefully they wouldn't be any louder; I'm trying to keep my car as quiet as possible without hurting performance.

Thanks for the input so far,
Dean
 

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hp seems a little low for the mods. iwould do exhaust and tb and play with timing and fuel on the dyno.
i put down 248 through ported stock intake and stock cam and gt-40 heads with 1.7 rockers.
 

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put a stock mountaineer-explorer motor in it..
 

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Hello,

My combination is very similar to yours except for the following:
  • Canfield 192 heads
  • Extrude hone Cobra upper
  • Custom cam with 1.72 rockers
  • 75mm Pro-M mass air (same)
  • 75mm Ford throttle body
  • 1-5/8" longtubes with off road X pipe and Dynomax Ultraflos
  • Built AOD with Lentech valvebody and 3800 stall lockup converter
  • 4.10 gears (same)
  • 235/50-15 Mickey Thompson drag radials
  • Skinny front tires (same - 165s)
  • A/C delete and by passed power steering
  • Aluminum driveshaft
  • Stock rear springs and 4-cyl front springs
  • stock rear shocks and 30/70 front struts
  • 3190 race weight
Last time on a dyno it pulled 295 HP @ 5200 RPM and 324 Ft-LBS at 4300 RPM

It is probably making another 10 HP and 5 ft-lbs after some recent changes.

What kind of dyno did you run on? Where/what was your peak torque figure?

The thing that pops out at me on your combo is the cam. Before I changed out the cam, I would take a timing light to the track and do the following before a pass: Remove the sprout connector and lock in 36-38 degrees total timing and see how it runs. If the car picks up you might want to try 38-40 degrees total. If the car is picking up with this trick then the car would benefit from a custom tune with adjustments to the WOT timing tables. If you have mismatched injector size/MAF calibration the tune would resolve this as well.

Running an automatic, you should be more concerned about the torque curve and where you see the peak. I imagine it is hard to get a clean dyno run since you can't lock the converter, but with only 3200 stall you might still see the true motor peak. You typically want the converter stall to be about 700 RPM below the peak torque. I doubt your torque peak is around 3900 RPM. I also realize that running around on the street with a 4000 stall non lockup convert is going to build lots of heat.

If I could only change one thing in your combination it would be the cam. I would consult with a custom cam grinder and find out how much they can help out your existing combination.

Lee
 
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