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So I recently bought a 351w short block F block, with crank, rods, pistons, girdle, lunati 51012 cam, and trickflow track max springs (no heads just springs and retainers). The previous owner bored it out to a 408 and put a stroker kit in. He said it is eagle crank and H beam rods ( from the quick glance I saw it looked like I beams but ill check again). 2 pistons are bad from him turning up the timing too much and some other errors. It's a little rusty and needs some touching up with machine work. Luckily Im going to a school for automotive so I can do all the work there. It looks like there might be some scoring on the walls and if there is, it isn't that bad. My question is should I bore it out even bigger to a 427? I have a 78mm turbo to put on it but I don't wanna split the block. I need recommendations and help. The goal of this car is to mainly be a street car (only racing in mexico 馃槈 ) but occasional drag strip. Thank you for your time
 

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You cant bore it out to a 427. In a stock block to get to 427 you need to change the crank and pistons and possibly the rod depending on the current rod length. Post some pictures of the crank, rod and piston. More times than not, these are sold with many lies attached to them. I have seen countless 331-347 short blocks that were sold that were nothing more than 306short blocks.
 

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The best you can do on a stock block is 0.060 over. A typical 408 would be a 4.00" stroke and 0.030 over pistons. If you took that to 0.060 you'd be at 414ci.
 

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You cant bore it out to a 427. In a stock block to get to 427 you need to change the crank and pistons and possibly the rod depending on the current rod length. Post some pictures of the crank, rod and piston. More times than not, these are sold with many lies attached to them. I have seen countless 331-347 short blocks that were sold that were nothing more than 306short blocks.
Crank and rods are still in the block but I have work tonight til 8 so tmr Ill take the block apart
 

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You don't need more cubes with a turbo. If you need more power you add more boost.

A decent 351W (not stroked) can make close to or over 700hp on 12 psi. That kind of power requires other chassis and drive train concessions to be reliable. How much power do you think you need or want?
 

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I've got 3 mustangs that I drive. 89 convertible 2.3, 92GT and 93LX. The GT is a 427" windsor, rougly 550hp. The LX is a turbo 4 cylinder bone stock that might make 250 hp on a cold day, probably 220 in the summer. It does have a front intercooler and 3" exhaust from the turbo to the rear bumper; oh and an open element air filter. Someday I'll put this roller cam in it but it will make slightly less power, just idles a little better is all.

I drive the 4 cylinder ALL the time and rarely the GT. Why? The 4 cyl runs smooth, quiet, and gets about 30 mpg. The GT? Noisy, jerky, idles rough (cam), and barely gets 220 miles out of a tank of fuel if I drive it easy. And it is a much "nicer" (by 1990's standards) car.

As said if you are going to turbocharge it and if you plan on driving it, use a small-ish camshaft and let the turbo make the power. Besides, 500+ hp on normal street tires is a wasted effort unless you want to do a TON of chassis mods; at which point you're into race car territory which means NVH issues usually.
 

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You don't need more cubes with a turbo. If you need more power you add more boost.

A decent 351W (not stroked) can make close to or over 700hp on 12 psi. That kind of power requires other chassis and drive train concessions to be reliable. How much power do you think you need or want?
I've got 3 mustangs that I drive. 89 convertible 2.3, 92GT and 93LX. The GT is a 427" windsor, rougly 550hp. The LX is a turbo 4 cylinder bone stock that might make 250 hp on a cold day, probably 220 in the summer. It does have a front intercooler and 3" exhaust from the turbo to the rear bumper; oh and an open element air filter. Someday I'll put this roller cam in it but it will make slightly less power, just idles a little better is all.

I drive the 4 cylinder ALL the time and rarely the GT. Why? The 4 cyl runs smooth, quiet, and gets about 30 mpg. The GT? Noisy, jerky, idles rough (cam), and barely gets 220 miles out of a tank of fuel if I drive it easy. And it is a much "nicer" (by 1990's standards) car.

As said if you are going to turbocharge it and if you plan on driving it, use a small-ish camshaft and let the turbo make the power. Besides, 500+ hp on normal street tires is a wasted effort unless you want to do a TON of chassis mods; at which point you're into race car territory which means NVH issues usually.
So many times I see where people cross that threshold where the power is a bit too much for the setup and they comment how much more fun the car was when it was more reliable and more manageable. At that point they end up spending a lot of money and time trying to get it where it is fun again as a street car.
Race car? Now that is different but still needs the investment for it to handle the power.
I think decent power that handles well is much more fun.
 

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So many times I see where people cross that threshold where the power is a bit too much for the setup and they comment how much more fun the car was when it was more reliable and more manageable. At that point they end up spending a lot of money and time trying to get it where it is fun again as a street car.
Race car? Now that is different but still needs the investment for it to handle the power.
I think decent power that handles well is much more fun.
I totally agree. My brother has a 418W powered '88 Ranger. It is a like a stick of dynamite with the lit match just barely away from the fuse. It's almost dangerous. It's run it. Break it. Fix it better. Run it. Break the next weak link. Fix it better. And so on. Many things you would never do to a regular street vehicle have been done to keep it safe and or driveable.

It's way overkill. The truck started out to be a warmed over 302 with an AOD, A/C, power windows, fun, reliable, drive any day of the week or every day of the week rain or shine. It snowballed.
 

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Crank and rods are still in the block but I have work tonight til 8 so tmr Ill take the block apart
To do the 427, you run a 4.170 crank with a 4.030 bore....and you MUST change the rods to a 6.200 (minimum). If you run a 6.250, you can use a 331/347 piston, with enough dish.

The cranks used to clear a 6.125 rod, but they've been changed to make them easier to balance and the 6.125 will do the "HULK SMASH" routine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You don't need more cubes with a turbo. If you need more power you add more boost.

A decent 351W (not stroked) can make close to or over 700hp on 12 psi. That kind of power requires other chassis and drive train concessions to be reliable. How much power do you think you need or want?
Because of some scoring of the cyl walls I was gonna bore it slightly bigger or polish it depending how bad it was. I wanted to make at least 500rwhp and eventually 600
 
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