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Discussion Starter #1
I'm making some changes to the hot side of my TT car and I wanted to document the progress. The current hot side for the twin turbos was made by the original owner and there was a lot of issues with it that I hope I can correct.

Issues I hope to correct:
Crappy and ugly tubing bends
The wide front tires hit the exhaust pipes when turning.
Slow Spoolup
No front sway Bar
Need for front coilovers

This new setup starts with some custom CG Fab headers that Caleb made for me that use 2.25" collectors instead of 2.5". I've done a lot of research and discovered that there are plenty of cars making 1200-1800 hp with 2.25" hot side piping and they used the smaller tubing to speed up spool time. Since I'm only going for 900hp I'll be reducing the 2.25" collectors to 2" which should keep the velocity of the exhaust up and hopefully get the turbos spooling faster.

I'm tired of the noise the coilovers make so I'm going to try and put stock front springs on it. This will be a huge challenge so we may need to get creative with the exhaust routing.

Although the car drives fine without a sway bar with the coilovers I'm not sure it will drive the same with the stock springs in it so I'm going to try and get a sway bar on it. This will require a custom sway bar and mounts to be made but I have a preliminary quote for $500 to have one made and an idea of how to mount it. I've mocked up some new mounts which I'll post later but it basically mounts the swaybar farther forward and down.

Here's a pic of the custom headers. The passenger side didn't fit and required the use of a hammer and grinder to gain clearance to the frame and K-member. I'm afraid it's still going to hit the k-member but I didn't want to grind anymore nor dent the headers deeper. Pretty PO'd about needing to do this but not much could be done.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
The headers fit w/o needing to move the motor up but the A/C unit had to be removed.

Messaged the header to clear the Kmember and frame.


I bought a pair of these flanges then machined off everything except the V-band flange then had a buddy weld the flange onto the exhaust housing. Doing it this way was cheaper than buying new housings and I could tailor the length of the flange to what I needed. Right now it looks like I will have about 1/2" between the two down pipes. I also machined a .2" deep step in the flange so the down pipes will stick into the flange keeping everything perfectly centered/sealed.



Here's one of the 2.25" to 2" reducer.


Spent most of the day making brackets to hold the turbos in the desired position but should have them done Monday/Tuesday. I'm also fine tuning the sway bar mounts but once all these parts are done we can start mocking tubes together.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had to notch my frame on the passenger side as well to get my header to fit.
Thanks for the info. I haven't heard of anyone needing to do this.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A little bit of progress this week. Spent several days making the fixture to locate the turbos solidly but still allow me to clock them for the best fit.
We connected the exhaust housings together with a 3" tube that clamps onto the V-band rings that were welded to the housings. This tube was then welded to the brackets that are bolted to the block allowing each turbo to spin freely on the end of the tube.

I don't have a pic of them but I had custom turbo flanges made that are 1/2" thick with a round hole so they fit the 2" hot side pipes. Cost: less than $20/pr.




Here's the mock up of the sway bar and brackets on the passenger side. The position looks great and it looks like we should have room to run all the piping and still run a custom sway bar.



Here Curtis is messaging the inside of the pipes for the driver side pipe that comes off the header.



ks
 
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Discussion Starter #7
thnx! Got a lot done today but forget the camera. The driver side hot side is all tacked together and is about 14"-16" long from the collector to the turbo which is a lot shorter than the 4ft it used to be.

It looks like there will be room for the 3" pipes around the stock springs and stock A-arms on the driver side. The passenger side will require some creativity, though. We need to cut the collector off and shorten it about 1.5"-2" and put a 90* bend on the end of it.

The sway bar mounts also need to be moved in about 1.5"-2" to inside the frame rails otherwise the tires will hit the sway bar. So far everything looks doable.

Need more piping so we're at a standstill until the material comes in.

ks
 

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Nice work my friend!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank You! It won't look as nice as yours but if it all fits I'll be happy.

I decided that I will be doing some custom v-band flanges with O-rings on the cold side piping to the IC. This will get rid of the ugly rubber hose splicing the two halves together and the O-rings should seal it good.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I haven't had much progress b/c I am waiting on tubing but I did machine the v-flanges on the inlet side for O-rings. This eliminates the hose splices that connect some of the cold side piping together. If I decide to have some parts chrome plated then this should look a lot nicer.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Four steps forward and three steps back but we've made some progress this last week. We constantly needed to alter the position of the sway bar in order to get everything to fit like I want which required redoing all the piping a few times. I'm trying to make sure all the pipes have as smooth of bends as possible and access to bolts, drain lines, radiator hoses, etc are easy.
We'll also be making new power steering and AC lines and routing them away from all the exhaust pipes.

You can see in one of the pics that we ended up cutting off the collector on the pass. side header and welding an elbow on it. This allowed us to run the piping over the top of the sway bar which also made that pipe nice and short at only 14" long.

Great news for me is that it looks like we can run the 3" down pipes behind the stock springs so I can get rid of the coilovers. In order to run the exhaust behind the stock spring the 3" pipe had to run directly under the oil filter so we're going to make a removable section in that area.

It looks tight but there should be just enough room to get the wastegates in there even tho each hot side pipe will have two O2 bungs. Things are getting tight!

I also concluded that since there is only about 3/8" between the pass. header and the K-member even after messaging the header we're going to cut the top corner of k-member tube off then add nice gussets under and around that area. When we get that far I'll take pics.

Currently we're at a standstill until the ABS delete arrives. Once it arrives we can finish the cold side piping on the passenger side, then make the turbo bracket, then install the down pipes then........

Driver Side Turbo Bracket. When the brackets are done I think I'm going to have them zinc plated:




Passenger side collector that we cut off and added an elbow:


Driver side collector and 3" exhaust pipe routed behind stock spring. To make sure we have enough clearance we jacked up the A-arm until the strut topped out against the CC plate then located the 3" pipe to clear it all. We tried to have at least 1/2" clearance between the 3" pipe and the rubber boot on the inner tie rod.




Passenger side piping to the turbo. Here you can see the custom turbo flange I had made for 2" piping:


Driver side piping to the turbo:


ks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What are you going to do to protect that CV boot being so close to the exhaust pipe?
I haven't fully decided yet since we haven't got it all placed just yet but if we have enough room we'll make shields that sit off the hot pipes about 1/8"-1/4" to shield the heat from the boots. If needed we also plan to flatten the pipes in a press about 1/4"-3/8" to gain a little clearance in the tight areas.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A few more pics.
All the pieces for the 3" down pipe are made and assembled for the drivers side. We still need to create a removable section under the oil filter and some rubber mounts for the pipe that runs behind the coil spring but all the pieces are made to the rear of the A-arm. The 3" piping will be made up of several removable sections to ease maintenance and assembly and the one section behind the spring will be held onto the k-member with several rubber mounts so all the pieces will be supported and located properly whenever it's disassembled. The passenger side down pipe is next on the agenda along with the WG's.

From what we've done thus far it looks we can move the location of the custom sway bar down about 3/8"-1/2" and move it closer to the motor about 1" which should give us more clearance for the piping and make the sway bar easier to bend to clear the front tires.



Passenger side Turbo Bracket:


Pics of the two down pipes:


ks
 

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Kevin,

When you figure out something to protect the rack boots, let me know. My single turbo kit places each portion of the merge really close to rack boots (even though I have them covered with wrap and some other heat rejection material) and I have burned through.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Kevin,

When you figure out something to protect the rack boots, let me know. My single turbo kit places each portion of the merge really close to rack boots (even though I have them covered with wrap and some other heat rejection material) and I have burned through.
How close are the pipes to the boots on your car?

At normal ride height mine are about .75-1" away and I was curious if I even needed heat shields. But if I do I would make them like motorcycle heat shields that would attach about 1/8-1/4" off the main pipes. As I'm thinking about this right now I wonder if I can make a shield that fits partially over the boot instead? Hmm, I may have to look at that tomorrow when I go back out to work on it.

ks
 

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Hey Kevin,

My pipe on a single turbo, and I am banging the thing hard, touches the boot with the car hanging up off the ground.

I drove around with air intentionally holding the WG open, and it got so hot it melted the air hose I had to the WG, but it did not bother my boot.

Thanks for the brackets. The new housing is all done. Just have to load parts in it.

I also got a bigger turbo on the way. I was at about 11. Hoping for 13.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, Tom.
It looks like the shields will have to be mounted onto the pipes. I didn't see a nice/clean way to mount them solidly to the rack although I didn't spend a lot of time trying to find a way. Most of my time was spent installing the ABS delete and new brake lines to clear the pass. header and making aluminum brake line separators to locate/hold them solidly.

ks
 
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