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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, when I have my new 347 with my turbo kit installed on the car what is the best way to break it in? The engine is brand new along with the turbo kit. I want to make sure this is done right as there is alot of $$ in this.

All opinions welcome
 

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Not sure if it's the " correct way",but we just let the motor run w/o the turbo spinning for a bit. Put a few cycles through the motor to check for leaks, noises etc.Then we hooked the turbo up, ran the car at idle for a bit, then started to give it rpms and make sure everything sounded good.Then we drove it around,easy,a few times, then off to the tuner, for the car to get a good a** kicking on the dyno.I hate those things.Sounds like torture.
 

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Modern piston rings seal within the first couple of minutes of operation. The breakin once required to seat rings isnt really required anymore. But, if it makes you feel better a couple hundred miles of moderate load(hills), limited idling, no lugging, no overheating and moderate RPM's will do the trick.
regardless, I always change the oil and cut the filter and inspect after a couple hundred miles. If all is good in the filter, let'er eat.
 

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Hey guys, when I have my new 347 with my turbo kit installed on the car what is the best way to break it in? The engine is brand new along with the turbo kit. I want to make sure this is done right as there is alot of $$ in this.

All opinions welcome
Would love to see some pics
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will try to get some pictures up on here soon.

I actually built the engine with a little help from my boss.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so would I be ok to let the engine idle and put a few hundred easy miles all with the turbo installed?

My thing is I dont often get alot of time and it would be alot easier to install it all at once(unless its not a good idea to break it in with a turbo)
 

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Put the motor under varied loads. No constant rpm, limit idle time and keep it off the limiter. You want some cylinder pressure it will help the rings seal better than the heat cycle method (oldschool).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Put the motor under varied loads. No constant rpm, limit idle time and keep it off the limiter. You want some cylinder pressure it will help the rings seal better than the heat cycle method (oldschool).
I could do this with the turbo kit installed? Will be running 6-7psi max.
 

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I don't know anything about breaking a motor in, but if u need to stay off the turbo for a bit and u want to do it all at once. You could log some miles without getting into boost. Depending when it spools might not be to hard. Just another idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know anything about breaking a motor in, but if u need to stay off the turbo for a bit and u want to do it all at once. You could log some miles without getting into boost. Depending when it spools might not be to hard. Just another idea.
Yea that is what I was hoping to do. It prob wont build boost till about 3k and I know I can cruise around under 3k.

Its just that this is my first engine and turbo set-up and want to make sure I follow correct procedure.
 

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I personally would not break in a motor and turbo at the same time. The motor should be broken in separately in my opinion due to the fact that there might be metal shavings (though small) in the motor oil that might get sent to the turbo. It might be a good idea to put an inline filter going from your pan to the inlet side of your turbo. It is just a piece of mind for me and when you put all of that work into the motor and have an expensive turbo no one wants to see catastrophic turbo failure due to some metal shavings. Good luck either way man.
 

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is there a way to setup the wastegate so that it makes no boost during the initiaql breakin?

or do i just have to get like a 1psi spring?
 

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In the 18 years that I was a SAAB mechanic we just started driving them and changed the oil at 1000 miles. If you have done your part and the turbo mfr has done his part it is a non-issue. Lite it up and drive it. I took hundreds of them out after prepping them and beat them like red headed step children. Never any problems at all. YMMV

Ducky.

I did the same thing to the motors that I built too.
 

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I know its kind of late, But IMO, you dont want a motor to idle much when trying to break it in. Prime the system and make sure you have oil PSI and fire it up.

Then run the car how you are going to drive it. Works fine for me
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know its kind of late, But IMO, you dont want a motor to idle much when trying to break it in. Prime the system and make sure you have oil PSI and fire it up.

Then run the car how you are going to drive it. Works fine for me
Thanks for the info, your not too late still workin on it!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
In the 18 years that I was a SAAB mechanic we just started driving them and changed the oil at 1000 miles. If you have done your part and the turbo mfr has done his part it is a non-issue. Lite it up and drive it. I took hundreds of them out after prepping them and beat them like red headed step children. Never any problems at all. YMMV

Ducky.

I did the same thing to the motors that I built too.
Thanks for your advice!
 
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