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AFR and TFS are the cylinder head of choice for the sbf. I should've said that most cars there were Chevys and mopars.
Most cars are LS Series and Ford Pushrod motors. "Most" and "Mopar" can only be used conjunctively in Sweden.

There is something wrong with those people.
 

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I'll never give a opinion on what I've seen, read, heard again. I'm done with the car hobby, selling everything. I wish you good luck with your business.
Dude, I don't care what you do....as long as you aren't passing out bad information. Your "opinion" is out of line with the facts. Most head companies, irrespective of where the castings originate, come with pretty decent parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Some people, including myself, attempted to give the OP sound advice but it wasn't what he wanted to hear so he continued to spray verbal diarrhea from his finger tips. Then he got mad and complained that nobody was validating his absurd thought process.

Some people ask questions and don't like the answers so they try to bully everyone into giving them the answer they want. It's moronic.
Yeah? What sound advice was that? I asked a question which d*mn near no one actually addressed. People saying it was too wordy, or you don't need that . . . talk about verbal diarrhea you got some nerve. You control what people can ask about and how they ask it? You get to choose other people's questions? Cushy job for someone with no answers . . . I didn't ask about your opinion on Chinese castings - thank God - because I was lambasted for the information I did post. So you are vouching for the Chinese production process? Good - you buy from them. Go live there for all I care. I asked a specific question regarding the 170 vs 190 Twisted Flow CNC'd heads - and haven't heard a d*mn thing relevant from you. Just trash. And you talk about verbal diarrhea? Wipe your own mouth bro . . . ya got a little somethin' there in the corner. And again, you *, if my mind was made up before I got here I would have already placed the order. I was trying to find good advice. My "absurd" thought process - how dare I imagine what might be the better head to put on a car and ask that question out loud on a car forum - the audacity!!! You a therapist? Because if you ain't you need a license, and if you are yours should be revoked. You don't know what you are talking about wiseass . . . I thought I might actually get advice, not just trash talk. Bite me * . . .

PS. Hey, next time you * about me not liking the answer, maybe you should actually try answering a question, cuz you didn't answer **** . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I’m surprise nobody asked him what transmission and rear gear he is running. An AOD with a 3.27 gear is going to benefit from some thing entirely different than a t5 with a 4.30 rear gear. I’m guessing it is a full weight 94 Mustang. Fairly heavy.

I do find it pretty hard to believe that simply switching to a small chamber TFS 170 head Is going to gain an easy 40 hp minimum over what you have. Are they better? Sure they are. But 40 hp is a crazy number to me without changing anything else. Ask the guy you talk to if he would financially reimburse you if you did not meet that number? The answer will be no way!

The big problem with the question is that it is not a simple answer. You have a knock off Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold and what is likely a very substandard shorty header along what is less than an ideal cam (Ed has probably done hundreds of these combos and designed cams for them with dyno and track times to back it up). So even if the trick flow twisted wedge 190 is ideal the intake, the cam, and the exhaust will hold them back. Probably significantly.

My opinion is you should definitely stay with the cylinder heads you have. Primarily due to your budget and not being willing or able to afford making other changes. They may be China cores but I would assume blue print inspected them and assembled them to their specs with halfway decent valves springs locks and retainers. A friend of mine had a conversation with his machinist/engine builder recently about blueprint engines. He now sells blue print engines to all the cruisers weekend car show types and general warmed up street performance build clients. Only machines and builds the race engines anymore. Apparently he sold hundreds of them only to have a couple come back. Blueprint immediately upheld their warranty. Shocking to me for an aftermarket engine. I used to think of blueprint as low dollar junk but maybe they are better than I assumed.

Starting from scratch I would suggest the 190 twisted wedge and a properly spec’ed cam shaft from someone like Ed. But that isn’t the case. At this point I don’t see the expense being worth it with your budget.
If Ed is the guy from Flow Tech Induction, I am waiting. Apparently they don't even take phone calls now except from suppliers. Their website says don't even call for a quote now. You just e-mail them and pray I guess - I sent in a request for information / help Monday before 7am. No answer yet. I have asked about the cam too with Flow Tech - but so far both Edelbrock and Twisted Flow have said my cam specs are perfect for their CNC ported street heads. Getting information - from anyone - has been like pulling teeth. Just getting anyone to even answer the phone. Twisted Flow told me they can't even get people to come into work - they are making more from unemployment with the increased benefits now by staying home. They are months behind on production and few people to even answer the phone. I have heard Chinese quality has improved. Great. But one of the few problems I have had with my setup now is overrevving which I cannot solve completely. One of the potential problems is a hairline crack in a head (sending the Sniper EFI into fits - idling at 6,000 RPM at times. 6,000. Sometimes I cruise at 70MPH wo touching the gas pedal. I almost rear-ended a cop at a stoplight. I have tried everything I can think of to rule things out. Searching for vacuum leaks, EFI shielding - I have tried it all. Thank God I didn't relate that here, I was blasted for what I did share. So far the over-revving still occurs and neither BluePrint or Holley can pinpoint a fix. It is erratic.) The Trick Flow heads have higher compression, are CNC ported, have higher velocity flow and higher flow potential. So yeah, I am looking at them. If my cam is "perfect" for them, I might get much better performance, solve a problem that has evaded every fix so far, and give me peace of mind. I am not a fan of China - period. I have that right. I was blue collar for a lot of years. I gave a damn. I would like my Ford to be made of American parts by American workers that still give a damn. For me that counts for something. Maybe I am a fool, but I still got that right, don't I? And maybe the day comes when I can add those long tube headers, and a shiny Edelbrock intake manifold I got my eyes on. But right now, I am just looking for good information to take the next step. To me, that is what will the Trick Flow heads add and which is better. So far, it sounds like I got a couple of votes on here for the 190.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
BluePrint seemed to have some growing pains when they got into the performance market (weak valve springs being one of them) but I think it's all been alleviated. A cast head is pretty much a cast head. I've never really heard of casting problems with Chinese heads. Valves, springs, guides, seats- yes. But that's all done stateside by BluePrint so we should be beyond those old issues.

Of course the OP couldn't link to anything about a casting failure and tried to make me out to be the dumb one for not knowing about this non-existent phenomenon. No point giving him good advice. His mind was made up before he got here.
Yeah - I don't have a right to prefer American heads on my Ford? More I could add, like over-revving problems with my current set-up which may be head related, but I shouldn't have to. I asked a question - not related to what is your opinion of Communist China and their production and labor issues. I could link to a lot of stuff - I have already been bashed for adding too much information. If you don't want to give actual advice related to the question, why are you so h*ll-bent to criticize the questioner? Got no good advice from you, so maybe stop the act.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
The question that I have is why everyone seems to focus only on horsepower, I haven't seen anything about handling or braking. To me having a lot of power is kinda useless because the closest track where I live is around a hour and half drive one way and there's no guarantee that you'll be able to even run. This is why I kept my power goal in the 325 horsepower range and focused on torque as well. A good friend of mine has a built 406 Camaro that he can't get rid of because of no track to go to and it's to radical for the street.
HP certainly isn't the only thing, but it is one of those mystical kind of things. IDK, maybe it is just testosterone or bragging rights but it makes me think of the first mod you ever make where you think, OMG I can actually feel that. (Mine was probably an aftermarket air intake, after watching a fellow McDonald's employee fashion two air scoops out of 1 gallon ketchup cans in his beautiful Mach 1 back in the day . . . LOL Yeah, handling can be - and is - amazing too, but stop signs are more common than mountain roads I guess. And you may not kick that mule everyday, but doesn't it feel sweet to know something is there when you do? I was actually wanting to ask about people's opinions of drilled rotors here, but after this fiasco so far I guess maybe the better part of valor - or wisdom - is to just ask a salesman!
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I’m surprise nobody asked him what transmission and rear gear he is running. An AOD with a 3.27 gear is going to benefit from some thing entirely different than a t5 with a 4.30 rear gear. I’m guessing it is a full weight 94 Mustang. Fairly heavy.

I do find it pretty hard to believe that simply switching to a small chamber TFS 170 head Is going to gain an easy 40 hp minimum over what you have. Are they better? Sure they are. But 40 hp is a crazy number to me without changing anything else. Ask the guy you talk to if he would financially reimburse you if you did not meet that number? The answer will be no way!

The big problem with the question is that it is not a simple answer. You have a knock off Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold and what is likely a very substandard shorty header along what is less than an ideal cam (Ed has probably done hundreds of these combos and designed cams for them with dyno and track times to back it up). So even if the trick flow twisted wedge 190 is ideal the intake, the cam, and the exhaust will hold them back. Probably significantly.

My opinion is you should definitely stay with the cylinder heads you have. Primarily due to your budget and not being willing or able to afford making other changes. They may be China cores but I would assume blue print inspected them and assembled them to their specs with halfway decent valves springs locks and retainers. A friend of mine had a conversation with his machinist/engine builder recently about blueprint engines. He now sells blue print engines to all the cruisers weekend car show types and general warmed up street performance build clients. Only machines and builds the race engines anymore. Apparently he sold hundreds of them only to have a couple come back. Blueprint immediately upheld their warranty. Shocking to me for an aftermarket engine. I used to think of blueprint as low dollar junk but maybe they are better than I assumed.

Starting from scratch I would suggest the 190 twisted wedge and a properly spec’ed cam shaft from someone like Ed. But that isn’t the case. At this point I don’t see the expense being worth it with your budget.
BTW, it is a T5 with stock GT read end, but when the current 1994 tranny dies I am looking at the 6 speed replacement kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Gears should be the first performance modification people make. It seldom is.
It is a very personal preference I am sure, but I seldom burn rubber. I like the idea - which may be a foolish one now - of a strong motor on an open highway. I like being able to cruise without motor strain, with the option to drop down when I choose. When the time comes if I can still get it I will switch from my T5 to the 6 speed overdrive kit. Same lower gear, higher gear on top. (I always wanted to get a speeding tick out west!) One of the best changes I ever made was to a bike back in the day - it was very heavily modified but I put taller gears in it bc it suited my driving. I have blown up a couple of highway man motors back in the day. Probably will never happen again, but a guy can dream . . .

PS. And yeah, the new trannies are fancy, but real cars don't shift themselves . . . LOL
 

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There are a lot of production Mustangs built before 1985 that were faster/quicker. And a ton of them since then. Point of reference is important. If all you have ever driven is 4 cyl front wheel drive cars, then any V-8 stick shift car will "feel" fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
I should have known that a fun street car was impossible for me. I thought that maybe a mild cam, carb, headers would be all that I would need to have a little fun car only to find out that I was wrong, again.
Hey, sometimes you want the groceries in a hurry, so what's the difference? Brother if it works for you I don't see anyone having the right to talk smack. A mild cam and headers is more than most people have, and if makes you happy then what the heck could be wrong with that? And you may blow the doors off of a lot of cars that are heavily modded - too heavily modded to really be streetable. My two cents. Might not count for much in this neighborhood. LOL But that is what guys who make their living in this field have told me. For what it is worth - you are the first one I think to give me any useful information here. (If I missed someone I apologize!) You are all right in my book.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
There are a lot of production Mustangs built before 1985 that were faster/quicker. And a ton of them since then. Point of reference is important. If all you have ever driven is 4 cyl front wheel drive cars, then any V-8 stick shift car will "feel" fast.
I am biased. I don't count blowers unless God comes down from heaven and says, "Yea verily, this Ford is for you, gratis . . ." LOL I am a very religious person. Now I have seen a couple of Coyotes I might date . . . but I do like an older vintage as long as she has her original teeth and a good set of gams . . . and I have dabbled in some of the early years, but that 85 had no equals to anything else of that era I drove.
 

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I am biased. I don't count blowers unless God comes down from heaven and says, "Yea verily, this Ford is for you, gratis . . ." LOL I am a very religious person. Now I have seen a couple of Coyotes I might date . . . but I do like an older vintage as long as she has her original teeth and a good set of gams . . . and I have dabbled in some of the early years, but that 85 had no equals to anything else of that era I drove.
Was that 1985 Mustang the fastest car you've ever driven?
 

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This was sound advice, third post in:

My 306 made 326rwhp with old school 170s. This was with 1-3/4 longtubes through a C4.

I say leave it and enjoy it. I think you are wasting your money on a 306 with shorty headers by changing the heads. Your worry over the Chinese business is a trap you're subconsciously constructing to ensnare yourself. You're going to drop $2000 on this project- that may or may not work with your pistons- and then have a difference you may only see on a dyno. When the valves interfere with the pistons during mockup you will decide you may as well build a stroker, then all the sudden you're going to be figuring how you can afford to drop another $5,000+ into the car. I say either commit to the stroker with 11r 190s now, or stick with what you have until you're financially able to make that sensible upgrade later.
I'm just laughing at this guy now. There's no point saying anything else relevant to the topic. I'm just here to skim his angry posts. :ROFLMAO:
 

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If you want a cam from Ed, you have to fill out the form on the website and send in your money. Does it sound crazy to spend that kind of money without knowing what you're getting? Sure it does. It's a matter of trust with Ed.
The years of knowledge/experience he has is not even measurable and he has track records to back it up. He, or anyone else with his knowledge, can't just put what is in their head on the internet and expect to stay in business.
I have not completed a search of how many people were/are disappointed with one of his cams, but I'll bet even money out of the THOUSANDS of cams he's sold it's less than 0.1%
Fill out the form with your combo and he will get you what you want.
 

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Hey, sometimes you want the groceries in a hurry, so what's the difference? Brother if it works for you I don't see anyone having the right to talk smack. A mild cam and headers is more than most people have, and if makes you happy then what the heck could be wrong with that? And you may blow the doors off of a lot of cars that are heavily modded - too heavily modded to really be streetable. My two cents. Might not count for much in this neighborhood. LOL But that is what guys who make their living in this field have told me. For what it is worth - you are the first one I think to give me any useful information here. (If I missed someone I apologize!) You are all right in my book.
Thanks. I didn't mean for your post to end up like this.
 

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Do you even realize how big the crack would have to be for an engine to go full throttle randomly? And where do you think a cylinder head is cracked that all the cylinders will all of a sudden go full throttle? And why in the world would that ever be a random occurrence? Common man!
 
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