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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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For the record I run a 4.56 rear gear and a face plated G-Force T5 on the street. .58 overdrive and I cruise around on the highway about 70 mph in the low 2000 RPM range. On the street it is usually between 1100 and 2500 RPM. And with this combination and a fairly light car I could care less about torque below 3000 RPM. Gets shifted at the track around 7500 RPM.

People need to realize the higher you can rev an engine the lower you can gear it. A lower rear gear is an immediate gain in torque at the tire. Torque at the tire is what counts!
 

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For the record I run a 4.56 rear gear and a face plated G-Force T5 on the street. .58 overdrive and I cruise around on the highway about 70 mph in the low 2000 RPM range. On the street it is usually between 1100 and 2500 RPM. And with this combination and a fairly light car I could care less about torque below 3000 RPM. Gets shifted at the track around 7500 RPM.

People need to realize the higher you can rev an engine the lower you can gear it. A lower rear gear is an immediate gain in torque at the tire. Torque at the tire is what counts!
Afr claims a 100 horsepower increase on a other wise stock 5.0. Is this fact, I have no idea it's just what I've read. I'd have to see the dyno print out on any cylinder head. But I do think that 40 horsepower is possible if the cylinder head helps compression and has decent flow. Every article I've read on the GT40's say that they can be good for a 40 horsepower bolt on.
 

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I’m surprise nobody asked him what transmission and rear gear he is running. An AOD with a 3.27 gear is going to benefit from some thing entirely different than a t5 with a 4.30 rear gear. I’m guessing it is a full weight 94 Mustang. Fairly heavy.

I do find it pretty hard to believe that simply switching to a small chamber TFS 170 head Is going to gain an easy 40 hp minimum over what you have. Are they better? Sure they are. But 40 hp is a crazy number to me without changing anything else. Ask the guy you talk to if he would financially reimburse you if you did not meet that number? The answer will be no way!

The big problem with the question is that it is not a simple answer. You have a knock off Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold and what is likely a very substandard shorty header along what is less than an ideal cam (Ed has probably done hundreds of these combos and designed cams for them with dyno and track times to back it up). So even if the trick flow twisted wedge 190 is ideal the intake, the cam, and the exhaust will hold them back. Probably significantly.

My opinion is you should definitely stay with the cylinder heads you have. Primarily due to your budget and not being willing or able to afford making other changes. They may be China cores but I would assume blue print inspected them and assembled them to their specs with halfway decent valves springs locks and retainers. A friend of mine had a conversation with his machinist/engine builder recently about blueprint engines. He now sells blue print engines to all the cruisers weekend car show types and general warmed up street performance build clients. Only machines and builds the race engines anymore. Apparently he sold hundreds of them only to have a couple come back. Blueprint immediately upheld their warranty. Shocking to me for an aftermarket engine. I used to think of blueprint as low dollar junk but maybe they are better than I assumed.

Starting from scratch I would suggest the 190 twisted wedge and a properly spec’ed cam shaft from someone like Ed. But that isn’t the case. At this point I don’t see the expense being worth it with your budget.
It's a pretty impressive operation.

 

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It's a pretty impressive operation.

The question that I have is why everyone seems to focus only on horsepower, I haven't seen anything about handling or braking. To me having a lot of power is kinda useless because the closest track where I live is around a hour and half drive one way and there's no guarantee that you'll be able to even run. This is why I kept my power goal in the 325 horsepower range and focused on torque as well. A good friend of mine has a built 406 Camaro that he can't get rid of because of no track to go to and it's to radical for the street.
 

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BluePrint seemed to have some growing pains when they got into the performance market (weak valve springs being one of them) but I think it's all been alleviated. A cast head is pretty much a cast head. I've never really heard of casting problems with Chinese heads. Valves, springs, guides, seats- yes. But that's all done stateside by BluePrint so we should be beyond those old issues.

Of course the OP couldn't link to anything about a casting failure and tried to make me out to be the dumb one for not knowing about this non-existent phenomenon. No point giving him good advice. His mind was made up before he got here.
 

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For the record I run a 4.56 rear gear and a face plated G-Force T5 on the street. .58 overdrive and I cruise around on the highway about 70 mph in the low 2000 RPM range. On the street it is usually between 1100 and 2500 RPM. And with this combination and a fairly light car I could care less about torque below 3000 RPM. Gets shifted at the track around 7500 RPM.

People need to realize the higher you can rev an engine the lower you can gear it. A lower rear gear is an immediate gain in torque at the tire. Torque at the tire is what counts!
Gears should be the first performance modification people make. It seldom is.
 

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BluePrint seemed to have some growing pains when they got into the performance market (weak valve springs being one of them) but I think it's all been alleviated. A cast head is pretty much a cast head. I've never really heard of casting problems with Chinese heads. Valves, springs, guides, seats- yes. But that's all done stateside by BluePrint so we should be beyond those old issues.

Of course the OP couldn't link to anything about a casting failure and tried to make me out to be the dumb one for not knowing about this non-existent phenomenon. No point giving him good advice. His mind was made up before he got here.
Seems like the cheaper heads have problems with valve spring's, seats and guides. By the time you fix all the trouble spots of the cheaper cylinder heads you could've just put that extra money towards a better cylinder head. I've learned that cheaper is not always better, that usually you'll spend more money in the long run.
 

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Seems like the cheaper heads have problems with valve spring's, seats and guides. By the time you fix all the trouble spots of the cheaper cylinder heads you could've just put that extra money towards a better cylinder head. I've learned that cheaper is not always better, that usually you'll spend more money in the long run.
No. Stop talking.
 

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Because you have a reading comprehension problem. You quoted me but clearly did not understand what I said.
 

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1985 Mustang GT
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It's sad that most on here use the forum to find a way to run down the other person. I'm glad that I have good people skills.
Bubba I have two things for you.

First: What happened to bubba 1? (Was asked earlier and I want to know.)
Second: Please get some experience under your belt and learn from the forums instead of posting all the time. You’re taking “learning from mistakes” too far. I don’t know if you are genuinely coming back for the abuse or are a high level troll. This is not me being mean it’s general advice you should listen to if you don’t want people slamming you all the time. KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN.
 

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You're entitled to your opinion. I go by reviews and quality issues and not just flow numbers. I'm not saying that they haven't improved over the last couple of years but I believe that you get what you pay for.
No, you go by internet BS, and I go by knowing exactly what parts which suppliers are using.

I'm telling you you're wrong. It's not a difference of opinion, it's a statement of fact.

Moat people on the internet are about as informed as you are.
 

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Bubba I have two things for you.

First: What happened to bubba 1? (Was asked earlier and I want to know.)
Second: Please get some experience under your belt and learn from the forums instead of posting all the time. You’re taking “learning from mistakes” too far. I don’t know if you are genuinely coming back for the abuse or are a high level troll. This is not me being mean it’s general advice you should listen to if you don’t want people slamming you all the time. KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN.
Have no idea what happened to Bubba 1. K. Will do
 

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No, you go by internet BS, and I go by knowing exactly what parts which suppliers are using.

I'm telling you you're wrong. It's not a difference of opinion, it's a statement of fact.

Moat people on the internet are about as informed as you are.
I don't think that I made myself clear earlier. I pay attention to what people install on their engines to improve performance and were I'm from the cylinder heads most often used are edelbrock's. Intake manifolds are mostly edelbrock and carburetors are 50 / 50 between Holley and edelbrock. Ignition system's are either stock or MSD. I don't know were else to get information on products other than the internet and magazines and sometimes talking to people.
 

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I don't think that I made myself clear earlier. I pay attention to what people install on their engines to improve performance and were I'm from the cylinder heads most often used are edelbrock's. Intake manifolds are mostly edelbrock and carburetors are 50 / 50 between Holley and edelbrock. Ignition system's are either stock or MSD. I don't know were else to get information on products other than the internet and magazines and sometimes talking to people.
I'd start by talking to people that know what they're talking about. Bear in mind that the internet is full of people like you....and not that many ford guys use Edelbrock heads. AFR and TFS are the go to.

Only grocery getters run Holley carbs. EFI systems are outselling both of them by a large margin. Holley is leading that.

You need to spewing your "knowledge" all over the internet and take the time to learn what's what.
 

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I'd start by talking to people that know what they're talking about. Bear in mind that the internet is full of people like you....and not that many ford guys use Edelbrock heads. AFR and TFS are the go to.

Only grocery getters run Holley carbs. EFI systems are outselling both of them by a large margin. Holley is leading that.

You need to spewing your "knowledge" all over the internet and take the time to learn what's what.
AFR and TFS are the cylinder head of choice for the sbf. I should've said that most cars there were Chevys and mopars.
 

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I'd start by talking to people that know what they're talking about. Bear in mind that the internet is full of people like you....and not that many ford guys use Edelbrock heads. AFR and TFS are the go to.

Only grocery getters run Holley carbs. EFI systems are outselling both of them by a large margin. Holley is leading that.

You need to spewing your "knowledge" all over the internet and take the time to learn what's what.
I should have known that a fun street car was impossible for me. I thought that maybe a mild cam, carb, headers would be all that I would need to have a little fun car only to find out that I was wrong, again.
 

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I should have known that a fun street car was impossible for me. I thought that maybe a mild cam, carb, headers would be all that I would need to have a little fun car only to find out that I was wrong, again.
Why are you changing the subject?
 
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