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Discussion Starter #1
I hate to ask. I have searched and searched and read until I am blue in the face and my eyes have gone cross. Certainly this has been done thousands of times already on a fixed formula.

What is the usual narrowing done? 2"? 2-1/2"? etc.

1994/5 8.8 axle housing
Factory length non-abs axles (FRPP 31t actually)...not enough spline to be cut. Will get new axles
Factory cobra brakes.
Mini tub rear & relocated shocks
Factory lower control arm brackets on 8.8
Cut off quad shock mounts


I would like to go up in bearing size but still use factory disc brakes
Ditching c-clips
Don't want to narrow to the point of moving control arm bracket or running offset arms


Want a 15"x12" 6.5bs in a Billet Specialties Street Lite double beadlock. ...and as much as a 390/45-15 (29.5" tall x 14.8" section width) if I want to but I want to clear the fender so the tire will tuck up without rubbing.
 

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I hate to ask. I have searched and searched and read until I am blue in the face and my eyes have gone cross. Certainly this has been done thousands of times already on a fixed formula.

What is the usual narrowing done? 2"? 2-1/2"? etc.

1994/5 8.8 axle housing
Factory length non-abs axles (FRPP 31t actually)...not enough spline to be cut. Will get new axles
Factory cobra brakes.
Mini tub rear & relocated shocks
Factory lower control arm brackets on 8.8
Cut off quad shock mounts


I would like to go up in bearing size but still use factory disc brakes
Ditching c-clips
Don't want to narrow to the point of moving control arm bracket or running offset arms


Want a 15"x12" 6.5bs in a Billet Specialties Street Lite double beadlock. ...and as much as a 390/45-15 (29.5" tall x 14.8" section width) if I want to but I want to clear the fender so the tire will tuck up without rubbing.
I replied to your PM.

A note on tire rubbing: My tires are 28" tall (325-45x17) and my car is lowered as much as it can w/o the tires rubbing except on the large bumps/dips in the road. They clear fine at the top of the tires with plenty of room but it's where the fenders tuck under/behind the tire is where they will rub. see pic.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Kevin. I have been able to pull tons of information from FB posts in the last 24hrs. Sad, FB is where the forums are going.

I will follow up with some of what I learned once I confirm it.

In short I used a guys fit that I liked and we measured and moved numbers around to come up with.
Vehicle is a 1995 Mustang, 15x12 4.5bs wheel on a 8.8 with 45" housing flange to flange. The stock housing 79-98 width of 54" was chopped 4.5" each side for a new width of 45".

I like his fit, so if I take those numbers and for every 1 inch less I chop from 54", just add that inch to the backspace.

Looks like i am going to chop 2.5" and go with housing width of 49" and a 15x12 6.5bs. Should center the wheel and axle flange in the wheel well.

I replied to your PM.

A note on tire rubbing: My tires are 28" tall (325-45x17) and my car is lowered as much as it can w/o the tires rubbing except on the large bumps/dips in the road. They clear fine at the top of the tires with plenty of room but it's where the fenders tuck under/behind the tire is where they will rub. see pic.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like we are cutting 3" off the housing end, clearing the brackets from the tubes and welding on new bearing ends. Should give an overall width of 48".

Not ordering axles until we measure BUT....
FOX LENGTH AXLES VS. SN95 LENGTH AXLES
79-93 Mustangs - 29 3/16" long rear axle.
94-98 Mustangs - 29 31/32" long rear axle.
99-04 Mustangs - 30 11/16" long rear axle.

So if we take exactly 3" off, we can order a 26 31/32" axles. But we will measure first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
oh boy.....







Went with 2.5" Off each end and Strange 9inch bearing ends. Called Strange and got 25" long 35 spline axles on both sides with Spool. Gives me nearly 3 full inches of spline engagement per axle. Went with new 3.73s from Richmond and ARP fastners. Hate on the chrome cover. It is only a stand in until the other cover comes off back order.

Wheels are Billet Specialties Street Lite double beadllock 15x12 with 6.5"bs
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes. There are bars coming off the main hoop to the plates backing up the S-box. And the S-Bix is welded to the body and frame rails everywhere it was close enough.





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Ok good. If u can tie your subframe to it helps. Also your front rear bars from your cage to the subframe helps out to.

Had to redo mine.
The main hoop has a diagonal bar going to the subframes as well as the hoop sitting on a box outrigger. Both doors have rocker bars and we are X'ing both door bars as well.

Might even bring front bars to the strut tower from A-pillar bars too.

The car is as gutted 1994 Cobra. Cage is Team Z 10pt with all their extra bars offered.

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That is a lot more than what a 8.5 cert requires to go 8.50's in the 1/4 ...and a lot less than a 25.2 cert to go 7.5's in the 1/4. I can understand all the extra bars if you feel uncomfortable with the 8.5 cert. as far as safety goes.
 

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Better to build it so it is easier to upgrade later. Have seen a few cars that had there cages cut out to redo them. Going to have mine dual certified. Hopefully do not have to bring it back to the chassi shop. And hope the car works .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That is a lot more than what a 8.5 cert requires to go 8.50's in the 1/4 ...and a lot less than a 25.2 cert to go 7.5's in the 1/4. I can understand all the extra bars if you feel uncomfortable with the 8.5 cert. as far as safety goes.
Totally agree. We are doing the extra out of safety and rigidity.

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