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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So here's the deal. Currently my 306 has run a best number of 10.93 (1.45 short time) in n/a trim which was exactly what I was looking for and I swore to myself that "once I got the 10 that was it, no more!" Well less than a year after getting the number the birds are chirping in that little brain of mine and i'm starting to get the itch to try something else.

As the car sits it's got a stock block 306 (minus pistons) with around 12.5:1 compression. Twisted wedge heads flowing in the 300/200 range, port matched vic 5.0 intake and an n-91 H/R stick. Car weighs about 2940 with me in it and is set up to go straight.

Here's where my question of do YOU think it's worth it or am I being a little insane about this. I'm just looking for your .02 here. I have the opportunity to use a TFS box R intake and either an anderson n-111 or n-113 h/r cam for an end of the year shoot out next month. It's typically good weather and a time to pull numbers! Do you think i've exhausted everything out of this 306 being hydrolic roller based or does the combo that I've suggested have potential. Bench racing sucks but sometimes others prospective is worth a lot. Is .3 too much to ask?!? :eek:
 

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I think you should concentrate on the weight of the vehicle. I got my 93 cobra down to 2680 without me in it and it still has a lot of luxuries from p/w p/l p/m power steering, stock iron heads, a supercharger and much more and the car flies to say the leasy because its so light, plus its so much easier on parts its not even funny.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think you should concentrate on the weight of the vehicle. I got my 93 cobra down to 2680 without me in it and it still has a lot of luxuries from p/w p/l p/m power steering, stock iron heads, a supercharger and much more and the car flies to say the leasy because its so light, plus its so much easier on parts its not even funny.
I'm not ready to swiss cheese the car as of yet. It's 2740 without me and I'm happy that we were able to actually bring the weight of the car down 20lbs this summer (vs. last) even with the addition of the 12pt cage.

With that being said, I'm pretty sure there is a tenth or two hiding in the clutch but the parts that I listed in my 1st post are available at little to no cost so I'd prefer to go that route IF I do anything at all.
 

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Perhaps just switching intakes may help in the e.t. department. What rpm do you shift at with the victor 5.0? What are you running for headers?
 

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What types of things did you do to get to 2740. Mine is 2740 with nothing in it besides a drivers seat. I have no air, P/S, smog, front runners, ect. I would love to drop 50 more lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Perhaps just switching intakes may help in the e.t. department. What rpm do you shift at with the victor 5.0? What are you running for headers?
It seems to like 7,000rpm shift's right now. Anything higher and it slow's down quite a bit. Anything lower withen about 300rpm of 7,000 and e.t./mph doesn't change a whole lot. It's got bbk 1 3/4" headers on it. We cut the collectors off and put a true 3" ball style on though.

I know the Box-R will support the rpm I'm worried about the cam being out of steam.
 

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I don't know the cam specs, whats the rpm range supposed to be on each of those cams?
Isn't the box intake similar to the Victor in terms of RPM range?

I think you are doing pretty darn good for what you've got though. Have you put on aftermarket race brakes? Good rotational weight to be lost there and a couple tenths to pick up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what gear is in it?
4.56

White90GT said:
I don't know the cam specs, whats the rpm range supposed to be on each of those cams?
Isn't the box intake similar to the Victor in terms of RPM range?

I think you are doing pretty darn good for what you've got though. Have you put on aftermarket race brakes? Good rotational weight to be lost there and a couple tenths to pick up.
I purposly got the 12" a-arms so I could do drag brakes and not have the wheels stick out but the brakes will have to wait until next year. With the Cage and tubular front end stuff i'm shunned from buying anything else for the car this summer.

The Box has a higher rpm range than the Vic, not real sure how much but I do know that it's higher.
 

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Congrads..I am sitting in the same boat as you. Suspension? Fuel type? weight reduction has been my ace in the hole. My car isn't swiss cheese yet and it currently weighs 2480. Yours is 2740. Consider the option.
 

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It may help you...but I don't think the intake/cam swap will gain you much. Have you thought about swapping in a 4.88 gear? May want to try to talk to someone who runs nmra p/s with a pushrod combo...very similar.
 

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I don't think you will see a change. The RPM ranges on the intakes although a little different, not enough to make a difference. That Victor can support a ton of RPM. However with the Hydraulic setup might hold you back from achieving the higher RPM anyway. I believe that is why it is slowing down after 7000 RPM, it certainly isn't the Victor intake.

Very impressive what you have accomplised with a N/A 306. Great Job.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
A9seccoupe said:
Congrads..I am sitting in the same boat as you. Suspension? Fuel type? weight reduction has been my ace in the hole. My car isn't swiss cheese yet and it currently weighs 2480. Yours is 2740. Consider the option.
P/A tubular moly front stuff, flaming river rack, coil overs, strange struts etc... Anti roll bar out back, stock springs, pro-3 lowers, baseline uppers, 50/50's.

Fuel type is Renegade 110 leaded.

Wow, I couldn't imagine getting it down as light as yours. I still want to keep a few things, power windows, mirrors, locks, etc. Other than the door bars, I'm not sure what else I can take out?!


Have you thought about swapping in a 4.88 gear? May want to try to talk to someone who runs nmra p/s with a pushrod combo...very similar.
If I try what I'm talking about then yes i'd probably consider the 4.88 gear but as the car sit's no way. Im trapping at 7100-7200 right now with the 26" tire.

blackout50 said:
Have you upgraded the crystal in the EEC?
Yes, the crystal mod has been done. Currently running the A9L with an old school svo extender.

mgerman93 said:
Jesse, There's only one way to find out!!
Yeah, I know! I just needed a little motivation from you guys I guess :)
 

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I think there's some more RPM potential in that intake you've got. My old 347 with that same cam & intake ran fastest at 7000rpm shifts, so I would think you SHOULD be able to go higher. Do you have good springs and Ti retainers? That said though, I probably wouldn't go much higher with a stock block.

There might also be a little more ET in the 60ft.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think there's some more RPM potential in that intake you've got. My old 347 with that same cam & intake ran fastest at 7000rpm shifts, so I would think you SHOULD be able to go higher. Do you have good springs and Ti retainers? That said though, I probably wouldn't go much higher with a stock block.

There might also be a little more ET in the 60ft.
So you are suggesting that the intake should be fine with more rpm, maybe a cam swap would be the better idea? As it is right now there's no need to pull more rpm.

Springs are afm hi-rev style and the heads have both Ti keepers and retainers. We pulled up into the 7400 range on the dyno with no hints of valve float and I've never really experienced it on the street or track.
 

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So you are suggesting that the intake should be fine with more rpm, maybe a cam swap would be the better idea? As it is right now there's no need to pull more rpm.

Springs are afm hi-rev style and the heads have both Ti keepers and retainers. We pulled up into the 7400 range on the dyno with no hints of valve float and I've never really experienced it on the street or track.
I'm just speculating that there should be a little more rpm potential with the current cam, but yes a new one might help. What rpm did it make peak power on the dyno?
 
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