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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I've been wanting to put a thread up about my build and what I went through along the way just havent had time to upload all the pictures and type out the details. Plus I wanted to make a driveby and in-car video for all the people considering going this route.

So I originally started out with a 1991 Fobra with a V1 setup that was in dire need for a retune badly when I bought it. Car ran like ass and didn't make hardly any power(which we found out later was a worn Cam thrust bearing). So I tossed around the idea of going Turbo because I had always wanted a Turbo fox.


Well after much research I decided to take a chance on the On3 kit. I opted for the 70mm standard Turbo as it was all I needed. I had planned on 10psi from the get go from all the research and figures I had found. I received the kit in the mail a couple days later after pulling the trigger and it was off to the shop I chose to do the install and tune.


The kits contents were very nicely shaped and had a nice sheen to them. The quality of the piping from what we can tell is fairly good for a budget kit. It appeared as if everything was there from the myriad of boxes, but in the end we only didn't receive the wastegate springs. If this was the biggest problem we ran into then we were in good shape lol Had an Aeromotive Stealth 340lph pump installed to handle the fuel side of things.

Once the kit was installed a few bad welds were found and had to be addressed, but other than that the kit has functioned great. The Ypipe piece is a nice fit off the downpipe and it set the angles perfectly for the catback. I chunked the Flowmasters and had Magnaflow mufflers welded in place as they are much more Turbo friendly.





While the car was there I debated replacing the T5 due to a few bad synchro's and mesh gears with a T56 kit from D&D. In the end I decided to just have it gone through and freshened up to stick to budget.


Upon buttoning everything up and attempting to start, the car wasn't seeing a MAF voltage from the Blow thru PMAS I bought from On3 when I had the flange welded on. Upon inspection it was deemed DOA as it had no signal even when blowing air through it. I replaced it with a Pro-M my tuner had and walla, she was running.


Once it got running it was time to tune.


Ran into a few problems concerning the nonexistant wastegate springs but finally got it dialed in with some on hand springs. Injectors (42's) were at 95% duty cycle on 12psi so Siemen Deka 60's were added to the mix.
The car put down impressive numbers to me especially at 12 psi. Honestly if this was a track only car I'd have kept it there and drove it till the block split. But, this is my weekend cruiser and I drive it on nice days to work and such so I wanted it to last longer than 12psi would have allowed it. On 12 psi she put down 555rw 535tq. I was astonished at the figures. I had him back it down to 10 psi and it put down a nice 483rw 493tq. This was a perfect medium for me in my mind. Here was one of the pulls:


Well I picked it up and had wheels, 10th anniversary seats, some gauges, and other little tidbits here and there ready to go on it once I got it home. I bought a pair of NT05R's 315/35 to go on the Chrome SSC Style 17x9/10's to handle the power and look good doing it. Here are some recent photos, the car has a new front clip and springs awaiting paint and install once I get the time.








I made a video below for all the aspiring Turbo builders to see what a finished product looks like when using this kit. Take note I am not raping the gears but enjoying the drive lol Thanks to all the resources posted in this section and I hope this keeps you other guys builds motivated! :joy:


Shout out to Ron Bell at Bell Automotive in San Antonio for all the great work!
 

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Nice ..................looks and sounds awesome.

I've gone back and forth about whether to get the On3 kit for my black hatch. Now that I also have a coupe, one of them is going to be sporting the kit.

Before I forget, better address that upper radiator hose as it won't last long resting on the turbo.
 

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nice car and nice build. thanks for posting. I needed this as I've been trying to install this kit for a month now and it's still not right. what color spring did you install to get 10psi?
 

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I had my MSD box in your same location. It melted down and left me on the side of the road. I moved a new MSD 6 digital programmable to the interior, I also just did the McCully remote mount TFI with a Motorcraft TFI ICM.

What is done to the stock block? I'm 347 @ 9psi, TKO 600, 450rwhp, 500rwtq. I still have the 42#ers and that is running on the edge, i'll get a versafuel and some low impedance soon. I also have the Cobra intake, and I think that is a bottle neck for me.

Sweet car, fun ain't it??
 

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The car looks good. I like it with the new wheels and the seats. It does need to be a bit lower, probably 1" to 1 1/2" in the front and about 2" in the rear would be good. Overall the car looks great, with that type of power it will be a lot of fun.
Oh, as for the upper hose, I would not worry about it getting damaged, but it definitely would look better if the hose was routed away from the turbo, instead of over the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice ..................looks and sounds awesome.

I've gone back and forth about whether to get the On3 kit for my black hatch. Now that I also have a coupe, one of them is going to be sporting the kit.

Before I forget, better address that upper radiator hose as it won't last long resting on the turbo.
Honestly I've been watching it since the day I picked the car up and no problems so far. I plan to get the Vortech radiator hose that comes with the Vortech kits as I had to sell mine with my blower.

nice car and nice build. thanks for posting. I needed this as I've been trying to install this kit for a month now and it's still not right. what color spring did you install to get 10psi?
Well don't get discouraged as mine took a month or so as well and my tuner was a one man army, welding, tweaking, fabbing he did it all himself. It will all come together and its better to take your time than to rush the small details:hammer: The WG springs I just know that they sent me 2 of the same spring, basically had me at 16psi with both in there and that obviously wasn't going to work. I had my tuner Ron finagle some other spring setup of springs he had in his shop, maybe he can chime in.

I had my MSD box in your same location. It melted down and left me on the side of the road. I moved a new MSD 6 digital programmable to the interior, I also just did the McCully remote mount TFI with a Motorcraft TFI ICM.

What is done to the stock block? I'm 347 @ 9psi, TKO 600, 450rwhp, 500rwtq. I still have the 42#ers and that is running on the edge, i'll get a versafuel and some low impedance soon. I also have the Cobra intake, and I think that is a bottle neck for me.

Sweet car, fun ain't it??
Very fun man lol and honestly it appears as if the MSD has been there for a decently long period of time. I can see why it would get fried from heat issues but honeslty with the blanket and wrapped downpipe its not as hot as youd expect in that area with the fan moving. Well it is a stock block, but upon dropping the pan Ron discovered Dished pistons, HBeam rods, and forged crank. Other than that its a cookie cutter Trickflow top end. Im guesstimating it is a 8.5/9.0-1 compression setup as the guy before me only owned it 6 months and bought it this way. Yea man def go the 60lb'er way, hit Chris up at PAS as he's one of the only places to still carry the EV1 60's that I could find.

The car looks good. I like it with the new wheels and the seats. It does need to be a bit lower, probably 1" to 1 1/2" in the front and about 2" in the rear would be good. Overall the car looks great, with that type of power it will be a lot of fun.
Oh, as for the upper hose, I would not worry about it getting damaged, but it definitely would look better if the hose was routed away from the turbo, instead of over the turbo.
Lol hey Ron, trust me I know its a little bit of a 4x4 setup currently but I have new Eibach Sportlines ready to go in just waiting to get my front end clip installed and resprayed, and rear quarters rolled to clear that 1.5in drop. You got that V1 on Marcus's car yet? I still have the 3.15" pulley for sale if he wants to boost it a little higher, 90 shipped its his. Paid 125 shipped from Vortech. :barf:
 

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Marcos's car is going to take a little while, once I get to it. He wants to start it soon though. I did not know it, but he bought a Parker Funnel Web intake. Because he and I were talking about going that route to fix the problem of his car making peak power at only 5600 rpm. His combo should make peak power close to 7,000 rpm and should make a good bit more power than it is currently. So the plan is to convert the Funnel Web to EFI, put it on the car, then install a new fuel system. I am going to try to talk him into putting an air to air intercooler on the car, since I will have to make a discharge pipe to go from the blower to the throttle body anyway.
Since he already has nitrous on the car, he wants to keep the nitrous on the car, but back it down to a 50 shot, mainly for intercooling purposes. As for the blower pulley, I am guessing somewhere between a 2.75" and a 2.85" blower pulley, is what would be best for his car, but he wants to stick with the pulley on the blower until we get to see what it does. His car is pretty quick already and should be noticeably quicker one this round of mods is complete. I have three cars to get to before his Mustang, one being his Impala, which is close to being done.

Have you put a tach in the car yet? It sounds like you are shifting a bit early or were the early shifts intentional? I am really considering putting the turbo on my GT soon. I have some Mac long tubes that turns out are for a AOD car, I did not know they made different headers for AOD and T5 cars. So I have long tubes for a AOD car, so it burns up clutch cables way too often. I have had two clutch cables go bad on me in the last two weeks. I am getting tired of it. I lengthened the clutch fork and made a bracket to relocate the cable. By moving the cable outside the bellhousing, the cable was away from the header tubes. That kept the cable from burning for many months, but in the past two weeks, I have had two cables go bad on me with no warning. I don't have any other headers to replace what I have, other than the turbo kit. So I am thinking of going through my T5 and then installing the turbo kit. Then get the 4R70W built up and the convertor cleaned out and putting them in the car later on.
I hope you enjoy the car, looks very nice and turbo cars are so much fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
...Have you put a tach in the car yet? It sounds like you are shifting a bit early or were the early shifts intentional? I am really considering putting the turbo on my GT soon. QUOTE]

Yea I was shifting early on purpose, no need to wear the clutch down this soon lol No Tach yet but I have one on the bench at home along with a Wideband ready to go in. I hate electrical so it may take me a little bit lol
 

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How far is the cutout on the y pipe from the ground? Mine is very close but I do not see how it can be any higher it is hitting the bottom of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How far is the cutout on the y pipe from the ground? Mine is very close but I do not see how it can be any higher it is hitting the bottom of the car.
I have plenty of clearance there, where I dont is the flanges next to the flexjoint behind the intercooler. It is vertical when it should have been engneered horizontally. But even it has a good bit of clearance with my stock suspension.
 

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I have plenty of clearance there, where I dont is the flanges next to the flexjoint behind the intercooler. It is vertical when it should have been engneered horizontally. But even it has a good bit of clearance with my stock suspension.
I agree with that as well mine pokes down there in the same place. I guess this is just how low the y pipe is on a lowered car. It is hitting the bottom of the car and it is still about 2 inches from the ground.
 

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I agree with that as well mine pokes down there in the same place. I guess this is just how low the y pipe is on a lowered car. It is hitting the bottom of the car and it is still about 2 inches from the ground.
Hmm well I have Eibach Sportlines ready to go in I hope that with Isolators installed all the way around it won't be low enough to have to limp through city streets lol
 

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Great build and those are some big numbers!!! I'm like Kwikstang...I needed this "pick me up" thread to make me forget about the fuel issues I've ran in to. BE dongle should arrive in a couple days and then the real fun starts (implied sarcasm).


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Hey man super nice ride! I have a on3 hot and cold section. Was wondering what re welding had to be addressed? I'll be putting mine in this winter and am attempting to avoid any hurdles now before the build actually starts
 

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which magnaflow mufflers are you running?

RBELL, can you tell me what spring you used in the wg to keep the pressure at 10lbs?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey man super nice ride! I have a on3 hot and cold section. Was wondering what re welding had to be addressed? I'll be putting mine in this winter and am attempting to avoid any hurdles now before the build actually starts
There was a weld near the last curve before the black coupler at the throttle body that you can see in the pictures that had to be touched up. It had light shining through it and needed to be beefed. The other was at the flex joint I had a massive exhaust leak because the welds were in a spot that did absolutely nothing. Basically RBell fit the pipes and welded them properly.
 

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The Magnaflows are the common stainless case. off set in off set out, straight through design, with stainless packing in a 14" long case. I don't remember the part numbers.
As for the waste gate spring, the kit only came with two of the same red springs. I tried to run the waste gate with no hose to the bottom, it made 16 psi. I then put a hose to the bottom of the waste gate and it only made 5 psi. I tried one of the springs in my collection, I got the boost to 12 psi. But once I found the worn cam thrust plate and replaced it. The car started making power. At first with 12 psi, it made 555 whp, but was blowing the BOV open, then bouncing the BOV valve off of the seat from that point up. Had I gotten the BOV to stay shut, it would have gone over 600 whp. We agreed that was way too much for a stock block. So I went back to the original spring that came with the waste gate, left the hose on the bottom of the waste, then cut the hose and put a T in line, with a restrictor connected to the open port on the T, basically a cheap manual boost controller. That's what is in one of his pictures. It made 10 psi on the money. I was going to put a manual boost controller inline, but the one shop locally that would normally have manual boost controllers in stock was out of stock. It would have taken at least two days to get one, so I just rigged that up, it's simple and works. I have done it before, it worked before also, you just have to experiment with the size of the orifice on the open port, until you get the boost pressure you want.
 

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The Magnaflows are the common stainless case. off set in off set out, straight through design, with stainless packing in a 14" long case. I don't remember the part numbers.
As for the waste gate spring, the kit only came with two of the same red springs. I tried to run the waste gate with no hose to the bottom, it made 16 psi. I then put a hose to the bottom of the waste gate and it only made 5 psi. I tried one of the springs in my collection, I got the boost to 12 psi. But once I found the worn cam thrust plate and replaced it. The car started making power. At first with 12 psi, it made 555 whp, but was blowing the BOV open, then bouncing the BOV valve off of the seat from that point up. Had I gotten the BOV to stay shut, it would have gone over 600 whp. We agreed that was way too much for a stock block. So I went back to the original spring that came with the waste gate, left the hose on the bottom of the waste, then cut the hose and put a T in line, with a restrictor connected to the open port on the T, basically a cheap manual boost controller. That's what is in one of his pictures. It made 10 psi on the money. I was going to put a manual boost controller inline, but the one shop locally that would normally have manual boost controllers in stock was out of stock. It would have taken at least two days to get one, so I just rigged that up, it's simple and works. I have done it before, it worked before also, you just have to experiment with the size of the orifice on the open port, until you get the boost pressure you want.
yeah...mine also came with the 2 red springs. I believe it was initially making ~5lbs until the pass header gasket blew again. then I installed my grimmspeed mbc completely closed then changed the pass header gasket again and it boosted ~16lbs with the mbc completely closed before I got out of it so I don't know whats that about. I did have one line from the mbc to the top port tho as many have done. maybe i'll just install it inline and leave the top port vta.
so..the restrictor is that white thingy at the end of the hose at the "t"? what exactly is it ?
 

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It is a vacuum hose reducer/union. I ran 3/16" hose to the waste gate, 3/16" T and one side of the union or reducer, it also 3/16", the other side is probably 3/32" OD. The ID is probably about 1/32", possibly 1/16".
 
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