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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Not half as glad as I am. Thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Figured I may as well keep this in the same thread.
The photobomb below are pics of the plugs. I originally thought I had one plug (#7) that seemed rich, or oily. Worst case scenario would be bad rings. I did a quick compression test just now to hopefully rule that out. Done dry, on a cold engine, plugs out, TB wot, I got readings that showed 160psi within 5 psi. Thankfully I think I can rule out bad ring seating.
On inspecting the plugs I noticed varying degrees of richness. A couple look good, a couple look not great, and the rest fall in between. Now, this is a fresh engine with around 250 miles miles, and I’ve been trying to lots of varying driving and engine braking to promote good ring seal.......perhaps it’s normal and I’m seeing a little fresh engine blowby?
I dunno. Not sure where to start diagnosing this.

edited to add:
OMG I didn’t realize those pics were so crappy till I uploaded and looked at them. I‘ll get some better ones next time I check the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Little update.
Haven’t been driving too much. I’ve been fighting a noisy valvetrain, so I’ve had the upper off a few times to readjust lifter preload. Started with 1/2 turn, tried 5/8 turn, then finally 3/4 turn past zero lash. No real difference in sound, other than since the last adjustment I‘ve been getting an intermittent rattle behind the dash that I think is actually coming from under the drivers side valve cover.

Since I could have a rocker/valve cover clearance issue, the upper will be coming off again.
Figured I’d upgrade the stock 19lb injectors to some fresh Injector Rehab’d 30lbs. They finally arrive tomorrow, so I will be digging in.

Also, as mentioned before, #7 plug is black. It’s kinda shiny and hard. I did a compression test. Cold/dry all holes were at or within 5psi of 160. I tried swapping plug with another hole. Same hole turned blacked. Swapped injectors, same hole is black. I didn’t swap wires as when I pulled #7 off, it sparked. Checked for codes and did cylinder balance test.....passed (code 90...all holes good).
I’m hoping that it’s just rings that haven’t completely sealed yet. Seems doubtful after 300ish miles. No smoke.
I run a catch can between the PCV and the upper, and it does collect some oil when getting on it. I also run an inline filter between the oil fill and the TB as I had to ditch the oil fill baffle. It gets a little oil in it but is not plugged.

Tomorrow’s plan is to warm up the engine, pull off the upper and valve covers, check for contact marks under valve cover and clearance as necessary.
Also going to check rocker position on valves to make sure they’re as centered as possible. A few are a little off center because I compromised between centering on valve and pushrod/guide plate contact. Will also double check my pushrod length by looking at valve tip wear pattern. If it looks off will remeasure using the mid lift method. If all is good, button her back up at 1/2 turn and live with it.
Then install the new injectors, update tune, and go from there.

Any suggestions on anything I can check while the top is apart? ....especially concerning #7.
Thanks all.
 

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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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Way back when noise from hydraulic roller lifters could be attributed to the weight of oil used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Never thought of that. I did use ARP sealant, but a failure there is possible. Will check it out
 

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Never thought of that. I did use ARP sealant, but a failure there is possible. Will check it out
I used the arp sealant and I think 6 out of 8 studs leaked. Along with a couple lower head bolts. I switched to permitex 80633 with ptfe in it as suggested by others on here. It’s been working great so far
 

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I ended up using Permatex High Temp thread locker P/N 59235.

 
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