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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Thanks guys.
TPS was easy....I didn’t have it plugged in all the way. Having TunerPro hooked up pointed me straight to that. However, trying to start it again it would try to catch, but only run for a second or 2. Tried a few times. Read up a bit and looks to be a possible fuel related problem. Happened to think about checking the fuel gauge. It’s parked on empty. I had to keep the cap off the tank over the last 6 months sitting in the garage so it probably evaporated. Maybe enough fuel was in the lines for initial start.
Anyways I work tomorrow so I’ll dump some fuel in on Sunday and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Dumped a can of fuel in it tonight after work. It started right up no prob.
Question though...what’s a good way to check injectors working or not? I just have the stockers for now....I’ll upgrade at some point, but when I took a temp scan of the primaries I was getting wildly different, but repeatable temps. Some were around 200f, while others were around 500f. Possibly my cheap scanner, but has me curious.
Guess I could run a KOER and see whats up. I have no KOEO codes.
Engine sounds good, maybe slighty rough. I’ll get it off the stands and put a few miles on it tomorrow.
 

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you can try a cylinder balance test

but isnt this a fresh engine?

the only true test, is a relative pressure drop test, you need the tool though

or a newer car that has that on a bi directional function
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Ya, completely fresh rebuild with some fancy shiney bits. After I shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes, I scanned again and they were all pretty close to each other.......about 120* after she cooled down a bit. i’m probably being abundantly cautious and cautiously paranoid.
Kinda like a turducken. lol
 

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Thermal scan of of header pipes is tricky. Depends how far down the pipe you measure, where the turns are and of course the emissivity of the pipe which can vary considerably. For instance a burnt or oxidized part of the pipe will have a higher emissivity (will read higher temp) than a shiny smooth ceramic coating that hasn't seen much heat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Well today was pretty spectacular. I got her off the jackstands, let her warm up to temp and took her down the road a couple blocks and back. No smoke, no leaks, runs good. Let it cool down for a bit and took her out again twice as far (fire extinguisher and cell phone on board). Backed her into driveway to give her a bath and buttoned up the interior. Wife and I took it for a little cruise, filled it up drove around some paved backroads to get some good break in miles at various rpm. Not a single issue so far. Will let it cool down and top off coolant and call ot a day. Tomorrow I’ll change out the oil and make sure there’s nothing glittery in the filter.
A little anxious about that, but so far so good.
Oh, and it’s really really quick. On first or second drive I was easing into about half throttle in second and the rear broke loose a bit. lol
 

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once shakedown is done

supercharger time!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Sounds like a logical next step. lol
 

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Awesome news!! Wishing you the best on that oil change!
 

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Thermal scan of of header pipes is tricky. Depends how far down the pipe you measure, where the turns are and of course the emissivity of the pipe which can vary considerably. For instance a burnt or oxidized part of the pipe will have a higher emissivity (will read higher temp) than a shiny smooth ceramic coating that hasn't seen much heat.
Agree 100%

Also depends on header design. If all the tubes came off the head with the same angled tubes and didn't cross another tube different, than the results would be more accurate.

I used a thermal gun to shoot my turbo headers. The temps were all over the place. I installed 8 permanent egt sensors. Temps are completely different inside the tube compared to the outside. The only good thing the thermal gun is good for checking for a dead cylinder.
 
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Agree 100%

Also depends on header design. If all the tubes came off the head with the same angled tubes and didn't cross another tube different, than the results would be more accurate.

I used a thermal gun to shoot my turbo headers. The temps were all over the place. I installed 8 permanent egt sensors. Temps are completely different inside the tube compared to the outside. The only good thing the thermal gun is good for checking for a dead cylinder.
Perfect. Good to know.
Thanks
 

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Great to hear about your success MX8!! It brings me joy to here about others success and happiness with this hobby. I hope to have the same feelings here soon as well!

Now drive the wheels off that thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Great to hear about your success MX8!! It brings me joy to here about others success and happiness with this hobby. I hope to have the same feelings here soon as well!

Now drive the wheels off that thing!
Thanks. I appreciate the good vibes. I‘ll delay calling this a success until I get a couple oil changes in. Once I know I have no chewed up thrust bearings, then I’ll let her know who her daddy is. lol.
And good luck with your build.
 

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After reading all your posts I'm actually stressed out about the oil change, reads like a suspense thriller. Good luck, I'm looking forward to hear the good news and hearing how much of monster that thing is out on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Oil change completed.
The jury is still out. The oil coming out looked ok. I have a magnetic pan plug and it did accumulate a very small amount of silt. Cut the filter open. Good news is that I didn’t see any copper. In the previous builds there would have been copper already. However I did see a small amount of silverish metal. Initial breaking in of parts? I’m going to cross my fingers and drive for a couple hundred miles and do another change. If there is any metal, I’ll pull the rad and do an endplay measure.
I’m cautiously optimistic for now.

While I had the car up I checked my throwout bearing preload. I have it intentionally set up for no preload and can easily move the fork around, so I KNOW I have no load on the thrust bearing and as previously mentioned the pedal switch is bypassed so I can start it with no pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I put a couple hundred more miles on it this week and just did another oil and filter. I think I’m going to declare a victory on the bottom end. The magnet on the drain plug picked up nothing, the oil looked ok, and the filter pick up virtually nothing.
Maybe I’m a little paranoid (ok, a lot paranoid) but I used a fine mesh gravy strainer to check the oil for metal. It picked up just a few fine pieces of what appears to be aluminum. Didn’t seem to be metallic. When I cut the filter open it was pretty much clean.
I’m still fighting a couple other minor issues, but I think my thrust bearing nightmare is now finally over. Will do another brief oil change interval then regular intervals after that assuming everything stays rosey.
 

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