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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been covered in several threads and I have given some brief description of how I do it. I finally got around to taking some pics and making a page to describe my tools and methods in better detail so if your interested in reading it click HERE.

I'm not saying my way is any better or worse than anyone elses but some of you may find it helpful or interesting.
 

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Minor nitpick: it's "toe"--unless you're hauling something. :)

My trouble is finding a level surface. :(

Edit: Where does one get an angle finder like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
huesmann said:
Edit: Where does one get an angle finder like that?
I bought mine at Home Depot. The only beef I have with it is the pointer tip extends beyond the degree graduations and the graduations are very close together so it's not the easiest to read.

Thanks for the spell check. LOL
 

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Nice write-up. I prefer a different way of measuring toe but yours stows more easily ;)

One thing I would clarify, you say you should set your toe after you measure/adjust bump steer. While you obviously can't give it its final toe setting until those adjustments are complete, IMHO it's a good idea to at least get the toe close before beginning the bump steer measure/adjust procedure.
 

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sandy, you're amazing!
two things:
1. hope everyone admires the trailer in the background that you fabricated!
2. in the last photo, maybe i'm confused by the perspective, but what is that red thing on the end of a hose near the strut?
 

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That looks like the end of a brake duct.

One other thing: I think you'll notice that you've estimated the pivot point of the ball joint significantly lower than it actually is. When Iv'e studied it I've placed it a good bit upward and if I'm right about that, it makes that line substantially out-of-parallel with the line the main part of the A-arm makes...which is why I refrain from using that part of the A-arm as a reference point for the tie rod angle.

I saw an exploded view a long time ago and that's why it's stuck in my head, I could be wrong and I can't produce the proof anymore, but it's something to think about anyway.
 

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MFE said:
That looks like the end of a brake duct.

One other thing: I think you'll notice that you've estimated the pivot point of the ball joint significantly lower than it actually is. When Iv'e studied it I've placed it a good bit upward and if I'm right about that, it makes that line substantially out-of-parallel with the line the main part of the A-arm makes...which is why I refrain from using that part of the A-arm as a reference point for the tie rod angle.

I saw an exploded view a long time ago and that's why it's stuck in my head, I could be wrong and I can't produce the proof anymore, but it's something to think about anyway.
If a guy was running MM front A-arms, this method for adjusting bumpsteer would be more accurate vis-a-vis the protractor resting on the A-arm would it not??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
MFE said:
One other thing: I think you'll notice that you've estimated the pivot point of the ball joint significantly lower than it actually is. When Iv'e studied it I've placed it a good bit upward and if I'm right about that, it makes that line substantially out-of-parallel with the line the main part of the A-arm makes...which is why I refrain from using that part of the A-arm as a reference point for the tie rod angle.

I saw an exploded view a long time ago and that's why it's stuck in my head, I could be wrong and I can't produce the proof anymore, but it's something to think about anyway.
I don't think so. The image on the page is a little dark after I compressed it so here it is lightened up. The ball joint pivot is at the middle of the ball, not at the point where the tapered stud meets the ball. I might have the line drawn a hair low and if you look closer you will see raising it will bring it closer to being inline with the angle of the bottom of the a-arm.
 

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Thanks for the write up how to. Gotta love when people share tips, esp front end setup.
Neet trick on bump steer, I to have the MM front arms and that should work well.
 
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