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Discussion Starter #1
So since i'm limited on BHP, I wanted to reduce the rotating mass/inertia by moving to lighter wheels. I dont have alot of cabbage, so I thought about unloading my authentic saleen chromies for some FR500 replicas. reason:

18 x 9 authentic stripped saleen wheel: 28lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen chrome 26lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen painted 25lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen polished 24.5lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica fr500 chrome ?? not known yet
18 x 9 wheel replica fr500 painted ?? not known yet
17 x 9 wheel replica fr500 painted 21lbs
17 x 9 wheel replica fr500 chrome 22lbs
17 x 10.5 wheel replica fr500 painted 23.5lbs
17 x 10.5 wheel replica fr500 chrome 24.5lbs

I confirmed the weights of all the wheels on the same digital scale. But a funny thing happened along the way... I started looking for 17" tires to match the FR500 17 x 9 & 17 x 10.5 scenario and I started noticing that all the 17" tires are considerably heavier than the 18" tires... Remember that the car is a street car w/ occasional RR duty. It doesn't appear that i'll be saving much weight after all the $/effort. What should I do here? And yes the combo has to look good as well... :)
 

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blacksnake305 said:
I started looking for 17" tires to match the FR500 17 x 9 & 17 x 10.5 scenario and I started noticing that all the 17" tires are considerably heavier than the 18" tires... Remember that the car is a street car w/ occasional RR duty. It doesn't appear that i'll be saving much weight after all the $/effort. What should I do here? And yes the combo has to look good as well... :)
The 18 inch tires are probably 35% aspect ratio while the 17 inch are 40-45% aspect ratio, no? A tire with a taller sidewall will be heavier than one with a shorter sidewall. Also remember that when you are dealing with a wheel the amount of mass in the circumference versus the center can make a difference as well. I went with a 3 piece wheel that uses lightweight forgings for the rim to save weight at the circumference. Overall the wheel is barely lighter than the 17x9 Cobra R wheels they replaced but they are 1.5" wider and the weight is more concentrated at the center. This reduces the flywheel effect and allows the wheel to acellerate/decellerate faster.
 

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blacksnake305 said:
So since i'm limited on BHP, I wanted to reduce the rotating mass/inertia by moving to lighter wheels. I dont have alot of cabbage, so I thought about unloading my authentic saleen chromies for some FR500 replicas. reason:

18 x 9 authentic stripped saleen wheel: 28lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen chrome 26lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen painted 25lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica saleen polished 24.5lbs
18 x 9 wheel replica fr500 chrome ?? not known yet
18 x 9 wheel replica fr500 painted ?? not known yet
17 x 9 wheel replica fr500 painted 21lbs
17 x 9 wheel replica fr500 chrome 22lbs
17 x 10.5 wheel replica fr500 painted 23.5lbs
17 x 10.5 wheel replica fr500 chrome 24.5lbs

I confirmed the weights of all the wheels on the same digital scale. But a funny thing happened along the way... I started looking for 17" tires to match the FR500 17 x 9 & 17 x 10.5 scenario and I started noticing that all the 17" tires are considerably heavier than the 18" tires... Remember that the car is a street car w/ occasional RR duty. It doesn't appear that i'll be saving much weight after all the $/effort. What should I do here? And yes the combo has to look good as well... :)
Here's my opinion as an ex-wheel engineer (take it for what it's worth): I would never put any "replica" wheels on a road course with sticky tires. Their strength and quality control is questionable at best. The true cast stuff is especially scary. For me it's Ford OEM or it must be from a reputable source that has a track record of good quality and no breakage. The stuff from China is not going on my car...
 

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Well said company man. :D

But I have some doubt in your statement since you know as well as I do that most of your OEM wheels are produced by aftermarket companys which also make many of the reproduction wheels. Your weights on the FR500 aftermarkets are a bit off, Factory Five racing sells the FR500 for their spec racers and the 17x9 are 20lbs. The 17x10.5 are 23. The 18's are 24.

Maximum Motorsports konig wheel is 17x9 21lbs and is designed specifically to allow larger brakes. Plus the $169 price tag is good too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glenn said:
The 18 inch tires are probably 35% aspect ratio while the 17 inch are 40-45% aspect ratio, no? A tire with a taller sidewall will be heavier than one with a shorter sidewall. Also remember that when you are dealing with a wheel the amount of mass in the circumference versus the center can make a difference as well. I went with a 3 piece wheel that uses lightweight forgings for the rim to save weight at the circumference. Overall the wheel is barely lighter than the 17x9 Cobra R wheels they replaced but they are 1.5" wider and the weight is more concentrated at the center. This reduces the flywheel effect and allows the wheel to acellerate/decellerate faster.
understood, but as for my 'circumference and weight distribution' scenario, my 18x35's are the same exact diameter as my stocker 17x45's were, so I would expect that scenario to be a 'wash' since the 17x40-45's appear to be heavier anyway's and they are the farthest distance from the centerpoint...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
serpentnoir said:
Here's my opinion as an ex-wheel engineer (take it for what it's worth): I would never put any "replica" wheels on a road course with sticky tires. Their strength and quality control is questionable at best. The true cast stuff is especially scary. For me it's Ford OEM or it must be from a reputable source that has a track record of good quality and no breakage. The stuff from China is not going on my car...
Eric, these arent for the open track. I plan on some GT stockers w/ used ebay stickies when the time comes... :)

PS: didn't you split and extend your OEM wheels? Did that company in Novi guarantee you that the wheel would not break after the original wheel/metal has been fatigued and put back together. And you ran these at gingerman no? :evil: just fuggin w/ ya...
 

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blacksnake305 said:
Eric, these arent for the open track. I plan on some GT stockers w/ used ebay stickies when the time comes... :)

PS: didn't you split and extend your OEM wheels? Did that company in Novi guarantee you that the wheel would not break after the original wheel/metal has been fatigued and put back together. And you ran these at gingerman no? :evil: just fuggin w/ ya...
Nah, all smoke and mirrors.

They did promise me the fastest lap times. :lol:

The hub and spokes is where the stress is. The rim does not worry me at all. That being said, I had that done way before I ever contemplated taking the car on a road course. Next summer I'll have better wheels for the track. The hack/wack job I will keep for put putting around town.
 

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carrew said:
Well said company man. :D

But I have some doubt in your statement since you know as well as I do that most of your OEM wheels are produced by aftermarket companys which also make many of the reproduction wheels. Your weights on the FR500 aftermarkets are a bit off, Factory Five racing sells the FR500 for their spec racers and the 17x9 are 20lbs. The 17x10.5 are 23. The 18's are 24.

Maximum Motorsports konig wheel is 17x9 21lbs and is designed specifically to allow larger brakes. Plus the $169 price tag is good too.

I have never worked for FoMoCo nor have I ever engineered or designed any wheels for Ford. But I will take an OEM wheel over any entry level aftermarket wheel. I can't help it. The OEM stuff receives hundreds of hours of engineering and testing.
 
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