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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

I found a 90 Cabernet 4cyl automatic Notch with 57k. Car is immaculate, no rust and garage kept its whole life. I can probably pick it up for about 4500-5k. I am tossing the idea around of buying it driving the hell out of it and the doing a coyote swap at some point in the future. I have basic-intermediate knowledge of car mechanics. I had a 2004 GT a few years back that i did the suspension on and all the bolt ons and exhaust. Question is - Do you guys think I would be capable of doing this and how do you feel about the price point on the car? I am entertaining the idea as I have been looking for a solid 5.0 for a long time at a decent price and have come up short. Also, i like the idea that the car is an unmolested platform and the paint does not need to be redone. PS, I am aware that there are a lot of parts or should say basically everything it different between 4 and 8 but its all going to be replaced anyway. Any input is appreciated.
 

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You need to to talk to power by the hour

wether or not you can do it, is up to you

it ain’t gonna be cheap

gen 2 mustang coyote, plus everything else.....15-20K if you do it right
 

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Buying a good solid Gen1 or a 1st gen GT500 is what I would do vs spending the money indy is talking about to swap that car and that's about right.
 

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Ive done a few of these swaps for customers. Its a lot to undertake. Indy is right in terms of price. Plan on spending 15-20k in parts to do it the right way. Theres a lot of Coyote Swap specific parts you need to buy. And If you want to go with a 6R80 (killer combo id recommend to anyone for a street car or racecar up to the mid-low 9’s) its going to be a good bit more for the headers and control pack plus 6r80 auto floor shifter. Other thing that has to be addressed for the swap is brakes. The factory vacuum booster wont fit with a coyote. And a manual master cylinder is terrible in a fox. We’ve been doing the volvo s40 electric power steering pump with an sn95 hydoboost master and Maximum Motorsports adapter plate and pedal box. Braking feel is fantastic. You’ll also have a good bit of wiring to do although with the Power By The Hour or Ford Racing control pack, but they make it pretty straight forward with their stand alone harnesses and fuse/relay box.

Nothing is extremely hard. It just takes a deep wallet and the correct parts. It does make one hell of a fun street car. We did one on a 93 fox and Gen1 coyote with a VMP Gen3 blower that makes 833whp with the 6R80. Dailey driven, drives to the track, clicks off mid to low 9’s and drives home.
 

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Ive done a few of these swaps for customers. Its a lot to undertake. Indy is right in terms of price. Plan on spending 15-20k in parts to do it the right way. Theres a lot of Coyote Swap specific parts you need to buy. And If you want to go with a 6R80 (killer combo id recommend to anyone for a street car or racecar up to the mid-low 9’s) its going to be a good bit more for the headers and control pack plus 6r80 auto floor shifter. Other thing that has to be addressed for the swap is brakes. The factory vacuum booster wont fit with a coyote. And a manual master cylinder is terrible in a fox. We’ve been doing the volvo s40 electric power steering pump with an sn95 hydoboost master and Maximum Motorsports adapter plate and pedal box. Braking feel is fantastic. You’ll also have a good bit of wiring to do although with the Power By The Hour or Ford Racing control pack, but they make it pretty straight forward with their stand alone harnesses and fuse/relay box.

Nothing is extremely hard. It just takes a deep wallet and the correct parts. It does make one hell of a fun street car. We did one on a 93 fox and Gen1 coyote with a VMP Gen3 blower that makes 833whp with the 6R80. Dailey driven, drives to the track, clicks off mid to low 9’s and drives home.
Cliff's notes: If your budget is $15k-$20k buy a clean Gen1 auto. If your buget is higher buy a clean Gen3 auto.



Gen2 kinda is a no man's land... slightly better power, all the S550 upgrades but no direct injection and no 10 speed ubertrans. Gen1 is better for the money and Gen3 is just way better.
 

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If you plan to keep the car long term and mod it. I would suggest starting with the suspension and brakes. Put subframe connectors on it pronto before putting power to it and twisting the frame. Build a good rear end with beefy axles, 5 lug conversion, this all correlates with suspension and brakes.

It will be easier to install and cleaner if you do it before adding a ton of power and twisting the frame, ripping torque boxes, etc. That’s how I would do it if I were to do it all over again.
 
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