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Discussion Starter #1
after almost 8 years of daily street driving...my AJE A arms have finally decided to give out (bushings as well as ball joint boots)....yes...i did have the kmember that had the breaking steering mounts...yes they did break...and AJE's customer service was so great...they sent me another revised kmember free of charge and shipping! hows that for great customer [email protected] the time of the modular swap early 2K...there wasnt much companies producing fox body to modular swaps...and well....AJE was one of the first pioneers of the kmember motor swaps...

I know theres a lot of pple running them...but when i was doing a search...i barely found any MM pictures...this is the MM 2.1 (fox body w/ modular engine mounts) i also purchased the MM A arms, rack bushing kit and oil filter relocation kit as well to install.

all i can say is the MM Kmember is much heavier than the AJE with A arms already attached...

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Well, the AJE part is prolly a drag-oriented part, more targeted towards weight loss.
Yeah, not as bad as others though. I had my QA1 k-member for almost 3 years and i destroyed the bushings 3 times... the first time i called QA1 asking for different bushings, they said that they only have 1 kind... the one that doesn't like turns and hard braking :)
 

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Yeah, I changed to a 4cyl bar from the stock GT bar a couple years ago and preferred how it made the front end feel and handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok...Ill try the bar out...

think I'll change my coil over spring rates though as well as some proper frt sway bar endlinks...I am currently running 10" hypercoil 325...was thinking of going with either the 350 or 375lb/in.

any suggestions?
 

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I recently went from the big Steeda front swaybar(32mm I think), to the 98 Cobra front bar. The front end feels more "floaty" now. Is this optimal? I know this is what MM suggests.

I haven't had time to track/run the car but spirited driving on my local curvy roads just gives me some feedback of the front wanting to lean more. The spring rates are 375 front, 300 rear with a driving weight of 36XXlbs and Bilstein Sport valved dampers.
 

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Front end leaning more doesn't mean it isn't, in fact, generating more lateral grip at that end of the car. You won't know if the car liked it or not until you're driving it at its limits.
 

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Front end leaning more doesn't mean it isn't, in fact, generating more lateral grip at that end of the car. You won't know if the car liked it or not until you're driving it at its limits.
I agree, thats why i've been hesitant to post anything. Hoping to go autocrossing this weekend barring weather. Still, cold pavement/cold tires won't really give me the variable-free feedback i'm probably looking for.

I just keep telling myself, "This is what MM says works", and so far it hasn't let me down.

I did end up putting my rear 3/4 solid MM swaybar on full SOFT(from full stiff) and the car neutraled itself out incredibly. I was amazed it made that much of a difference. It was insanely tail happy even with a staggered tire fitment.
 

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I did end up putting my rear 3/4 solid MM swaybar on full SOFT(from full stiff) and the car neutraled itself out incredibly. I was amazed it made that much of a difference. It was insanely tail happy even with a staggered tire fitment.
Simple rule of thumb regarding suspension tuning and sway bars (anti-roll bars, actually,) and springs.

Softer = more grip. If you have a car that understeers, add more rear bar/springs in the back, or less in the front. If it oversteers, soften the rear or stiffen the front.

Of course this is just a general rule. If your roll centers are wacked out, or the geometry is otherwise screwed up, the added body roll may put the suspension in a place where the contact patch is compromised, and you actually LOOSE grip with softer settings. Suspension tunning pa partially about putting the suspension in that sweet spot that gets you maximum grip.

And note that I said NOTHING about dampers (shocks & struts.) They don't determine the level of grip, they control the car through transitions and for the most part, determine how quickly the car reacts. They're, for the most part, a secondary tuynging device after springs and bars.
 

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I completely agree with you. I suppose i'm only skeptical because i've basically changed everything about the car and i've been driving it so long the other way I got comfortable with how it was working.

Seat time is what I need, plain and simple.
 

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One more data point, I swapped my GT front bar for a 4-cylinder bar and it gave me noticeably more front grip (less understeer). It did allow for slightly more roll, but that's OK if I can nail a corner a few MPH faster. My next "tune" will be an SN95 Cobra rear bar (it's thicker than the GT rear bar). It may give me too much oversteer, but I want to try it.

--Vince
 

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What does the wooden doll house weigh? :)

For autocross I've found that a stiffer bar is often better because it offers quicker transitions, even if it does give up a little steady state grip. For autocrossing you're mostly transitioning. For road courses you spend far more time in steady state.

Justin
 
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