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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm at the tail end of my MM k-member/control arm/cc plate/coilover install (Bilstein MM Sport struts w/400 lb/in springs).

I've installed the control arms in the upper location on the k-member but haven't bolted up the spindles or the coilovers yet. The upper locations are to lower the car 2" or more and were recommended.

I'm using 17X9 95 Cobra R wheels (R58) and am going to start out with one set of 245/45/17 street tires and a set of 275/40/17 R compound tires. Pretty sure I'll run into some clearance issues with the 275s but what is everyone's experience with 245/45s in the upper mounting position? I had to roll the fender lips with 1.5" lowering on stock k-member/control arms before to get the 245/45s to clear in hard cornering, and the upper mounting position will lower it a minimum of another .5". Just wondering if I should rethink my mounting position for the control arms before I bolt everything else up. I'm not sure the rates of the springs I took out, they were on the car when I bought it.

Thanks
 

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Even just running 245/45-17's on 17x8's, and in anticipation of some 255/40's, with standard-offset A-arms in the upper position of the MM k-member, I've had to ditch the fender liner and push the front lower extensions out with turnbuckles. I'll grab some pics of what I'm talking about later today

And the car isn't exactly slammed, but it's low enough that it called for the upper A-arm mounting point. Where you mount the A-arm is determined largely by your ride height. If the car is low enough that the line between the ball joint pivot and A-arm pivots angles up from K-member outward, you want to use the higher pivot points. This changes the roll center and some other factors but it maximizes your camber curve and bumpsteer performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I expect to have to move the front of the fender out some and the inner fenders are already gone (forgot to mention that) as part of my at-the-track fender lip roll/inner fender removal last year. I also have the standard offset arms (forgot that one too- I'm batting a thousand).

I'm more concerned about the top of the tire rubbing the fender lip, even though it's rolled. Doesn't sound like you have an issue though and I have a 1" wider wheel which should stretch the tire out and take out a little diameter. I will, of course, check the a-arm position once everything's together but taking the rack back out and then moving the control arms later isn't what I wanted to do, but may be necessary. I've had so little time to work on this thing and it's like 98 degrees this week so even the hour here or there I do get seems like a day.

I wouldn't mind seeing your pics, thanks for the reply.
 

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Here's looking into the passenger side of mine. I removed a factory brace that tied the fender in, then installed a turnbuckle between an existing hole on the frame rail, and one of the nubs that mounts the trim strip to the fender using strap steel, fender washers and hardware I had on hand. I also installed a quick & dirty shield to protect the air filter intake hole from water and debris.



There's a lot of great info about spreading fenders on foxbodies in this thread http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27194 and starting at post 118 in this thread, but you have to be a member to see the pics: http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32461
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sweet, brilliant idea about the turnbuckle, thus far I've only seen a piece of square tubing used, nice that it's adjustable.

I am a member at CC, have never posted there but have checked it out a few times. There's just so much info, it gets overwhelming. I'll check out the links, thank you for that.

Over time, I plan to move to the Maeir Racing or Tiger Racing fiberglass or carbon fiber flared fenders but I've been spending money like it's going out of style and need to make my steel ones work for the rest of this year.

Based on everything I read, I decided to plunge in and leave the arms in the upper holes and test fit the new rack which was easier than anticipated. I did have to move it to the full down position due to my 7qt pan, meaning my 94-95 spindles aren't getting installed like I had hoped (if the rack was full up, I would have chanced it). Now I have to find a set of '96 and up and get them drilled and reamed for the bumpsteer kit. So I'll finish up the new rack and wait on parts and machining. Really hoping to hit the track again for the first time this year in 3 weeks (fingers crossed).

Thanks again for the info.
 

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To push it out/keep it off the tire.

That is pretty awesome on the adjustable turnbuckle. Great setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ended up stealing the turnbuckle idea, mine are a bit different in that they have a solid aluminum body but they worked really well.

I ended up having only very slight rubbing even with the 275/40/17s on the Cobra Rs and that was only on super hard cornering at the track. Of course that was with Toyo RA1s, I just bought a set of same size Nitto NT01s from another guy and they look like they are taller and narrower so I may have more rubbing issues. I won't know until next spring.
 

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You can also gain a little more clearance with the help of a friend or 2. Loosen the fender bolts just inside the hood. Have 1 or 2 (used 2 on my car) friends pull (or hang like wimpy people like I had to do) and have the other person tighten the bolts. I'm also one of those weirdos with forward offset arms, 96 spindles & 275s on 03 Cobras all around.
 
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