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I'm in the middle of installing a MM K-Member. Everything fits perfect except for the 2-point chassis brace. No matter which way I move it, flip it, turn it, ANYTHING, it's just not going to fit. My longtube headers are to big (Accufabe 1 7/8") and hang to low to make the brace fit. It would possibly fit with a bazillion washers on it but then it would hang so low that it would hit and scrape on everything and it would only be a matter of time before something would possibly take it out with serious damage to the K-Member.

So the question is this, what are the implications of leaving the brace off. I really have no choice but what do you guys think?
 

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When I installed mine, the oil pan I chose required I use all the washers in the kit. I used the longer bolts but apparently there wasn't enough thread engagement because as I torqued them down it pulled the threads right out of the k-member. I've been running it with no brace for the last two years and I haven't had any ill effects.

I always think about helicoiling or re-threading at a larger size and using even longer bolts but I really don't think I'm gonna notice any difference, so for now, I'm been letting it go.

(Oh yeah, I also read a thread either here or at CC where there was a whole list of guys who don't run it and didn't feel it was necessary.)
 

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The k-member brace provides a significant increase in front chassis stiffness with very little added weight. In particular it helps stabilize the toe of the outer, loaded tire during cornering.

If you can't use it due to exhaust clearance issues, bummer. On some cars with larger oil pans and/or full length headers, there is just no way to make it fit.
 

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Jack, you guys ever consider making a 2-point brace that is more angled to clear a larger oil pan? Maybe make it an option or a stand-alone part (I don't think it would need a bunch more angle to clear most pans without too many spacers). I would love to have used it on my car but as you can see from above, it was a no go.
 

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I bet you could have one made by a local 4x4 shop and it shouldn't cost more than 30-40$ if you provide them your old one to use as material. Or it may be cheaper to just sell what you have and let them make their own.

It's a pretty simple design. ;)

And I say "4x4 shop" because it seems they don't have the "race car" tax/fee labor rate. :)
 

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MJ,

In our experience, a large percentage of the Mustangs with large sump oilpans also have full length headers. If we make a k-member brace that bends backwards to clear the oilpan sump, then it is in the way of the headers as this is exactly where they come down. That is why we recommend spacing the brace downwards.

Also bending the brace makes it less stiff.

If we were to add a bent brace as an option, this creates other problems. As it is now, we already have a lot of options with our suspension products. We spend a huge percentage of our time just educating customers on the different options so they can purchase the optimum products for their use. If we were to add a brace shape option, this would complicate matters further.

Do you still have the bolts that you used for the brace and/or the brace itself? I'd like to get some measurements of these parts from you if possible. The bolt should not have stripped.

If you want to make a custom brace, cut the brace at each end, leaving about 1/2" of the brace tube on the crush sleeve at each end. Then use a new brace tube of larger diameter so it can be slipped over the ends of the 1/2" sections and then welded. One issue you will have is that after welding, if you remove the brace, it will not fit back on properly due to metal shrinkage. You may have a very difficult time lining up the bolt holes.
 

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Yeah, I have all the stuff. It's buried away in a box in either the basement or garage after the move last summer.

I realize you can't build to all pans/header combinations but if memory serves, a little bit of extra offset to the rear would have cleared the pan without all the spacers in there. I have shorty headers on there now so I guess I didn't even figure the long tubes would get in the way.

In honesty, it seemed like there wasn't enough thread engagement and I knew better than to try to torque them down but that excitment to get the last thing bolted up and get the car on the road got me. I ended up buying longer bolts later but they wouldn't start in the holes. I had originally planned to do some thread repairs but after driving the thing, it didn't seem to need the brace so I've let it go. After reading your response, perhaps I'll dig everything out of it's storage space (when I figure out where that is), fix the threads and either try to modify the brace or just use the longer bolts I bought after the fact.
 

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The k-member brace provides a significant increase in front chassis stiffness with very little added weight. In particular it helps stabilize the toe of the outer, loaded tire during cornering.

If you can't use it due to exhaust clearance issues, bummer. On some cars with larger oil pans and/or full length headers, there is just no way to make it fit.
Jack,

What it the bolt thread for the brace?

I have the same issue, mostly header clearance, so I'll make spacers and use longer bolts!...might even add gussets to the spacer/bar.
 

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If you can't use it due to exhaust clearance issues, bummer. On some cars with larger oil pans and/or full length headers, there is just no way to make it fit.

I had this issue with my Milodon pan hanging too low to make the Maximum piece fit, so I made my own. Sure it hangs lower by maybe 1", but at least it will shield my oil pan. :)
 
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