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Discussion Starter #1
2011 SCCA Solo Rules page 198. Appendix A-Prepared Category
Minimum weight (lbs):
V8 engines greater than 5100cc 3000
V8 engines equal to or less than 5100cc 2700
302cid = 4.948L = 4948cc

302cid + 0.030 = 306ci = 5.014L = 5014cc


Nice, so I can bore a 302 30 over and still be under the 5.1L rule and still be down to 2700 lbs.

Except......
Curb-weight range, pounds: 2,530-2,672 (1979); 2,601-2,692 (1981)
What if a stock car is less than the ruled minimum weight?

On average, how much is subframe connectors and PHB gonna weigh? I know a roll cage will add some...
 

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What if a stock car is less than the ruled minimum weight?

On average, how much is subframe connectors and PHB gonna weigh? I know a roll cage will add some...
Need to add ballast to reach the minimum weight. At National Tours and Nationals, cars are put on scales after your last run to check for weight compliance. DSQ's are issued for weight violators. Local events are pretty much "honor system".

A pair of MM full length SFC's weighs 26 lbs. MM's PHB is about 25 lbs. Full roll cage 150 lbs or more, depending how crazy you get with it.

My fully gutted '87 coupe with full roll cage, SFC's, PHB, TA requires about 150 lbs. ballast to meet minimum weight of 2750# (the extra 50# is penalty for rims wider than 10"), and it still has factory glass front and rear as well as EFI with computer, the various sensors, and the heavy ass EFI intake.

The ballast you can put wherever you want, generally as close to the ground and as close to the center of gravity (pivot point) as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I've been looking for lead bricks now. At least with lead ingots, you actually lower your center of gravity, to lower the weight on the top half of the car (fiberglass fenders, polycarbonate windows) and throw a lead brick on the floor to balance out the weight loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At first, I seemed to recall some rule about ballast weights can only be added in 50lbs increments. Look at the class rules last night again, and couldn't find that rule. Maybe it was in Stock, since that's what I've been racing for a few years.

So I looked into dive weights.
Dive weights, 5lbs bags run $17 before shipping.

I found lead ingots online for roughly $1/pound.
 

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At first, I seemed to recall some rule about ballast weights can only be added in 50lbs increments. Look at the class rules last night again, and couldn't find that rule. Maybe it was in Stock, since that's what I've been racing for a few years.

So I looked into dive weights.
Dive weights, 5lbs bags run $17 before shipping.

I found lead ingots online for roughly $1/pound.
How much weight do you estimate you'll need?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
More than yours, I WAS planning on doing a fiberglass hood, Maier fiberglass fenders, and polycarbonate windows. I was only gonna do an 8 point cage, but at least a full cage may help some.

I still have some time. But it does change future plans a little bit.


It just caught me off guard because I was able to LOSE 600 pounds in my 1987 EP Civic. We are talking about cutting the metal out of the doors and stuff. Basically a door skin and a frame.

Curb Weight of 1987 Civic Si - 2,161 lb
Minimum weight - 1488 (1488cc engine)
 

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More than yours, I WAS planning on doing a fiberglass hood, Maier fiberglass fenders, and polycarbonate windows.
You should still do all that. The more weight you can remove from the periphery and replace in the form of ballast located low and toward the center, the better the car will rotate. Polycarbonate windows are on my checklist over the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Need to add ballast to reach the minimum weight. At National Tours and Nationals, cars are put on scales after your last run to check for weight compliance. DSQ's are issued for weight violators. Local events are pretty much "honor system".

A pair of MM full length SFC's weighs 26 lbs. MM's PHB is about 25 lbs. Full roll cage 150 lbs or more, depending how crazy you get with it.

My fully gutted '87 coupe with full roll cage, SFC's, PHB, TA requires about 150 lbs. ballast to meet minimum weight of 2750# (the extra 50# is penalty for rims wider than 10"), and it still has factory glass front and rear as well as EFI with computer, the various sensors, and the heavy ass EFI intake.

The ballast you can put wherever you want, generally as close to the ground and as close to the center of gravity (pivot point) as possible.
Just to let you know in the Fastracks, it's now a 100# penalty. I just saw it and wanted to let you know.
 

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That's just for DP and FP from what I'm reading. Not CP.
 

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My old CP Fox weighed 2380# with no ballast in it and the heavy Dart block. (and obsolutely horrible F/R balance)

Since I ran at #3050 I obviously had a lot of ballast in it. Got a 1" thick steel plate that was 36" long and 24" wide (IIRC) and welded it to the outside of the SFC on the passenger side and up into the rocker structure to hold the outside.

I also took pieces of 2x3" rectangle tube and cut them to fit between the frame rails in front of the axle. I then capped off one end and melted lead into them to fill them and then welded a cap on the other end. I want to say these ended up at about 75" each and I had 4 of them welded on there.

I did the fine tuning with barbells mounted on a 3/4" threaded stud welded on top of the 1" steel plate under what used to be the rear seat floorpan.

As noted, you should get all the weight you can out of the car, especially in the front and up high. Ballast to make weight that is low to the ground is good. Just don't put any behind the axle, BTDT.

Lead is extremely expensive to get from anywhere it has be shipped (duh :)) so you would probably want to get it locally. I just used the phone book and found a place that sold it, I think they even made the ingots up while I waited.

HTH,

DaveW
 
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