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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is (if I remember correctly) a 2-pin connector that goes to the CC. What does that normally connect too? I'm trying to figure out a way to keep this in place instead of removing it.
 

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Connects to the ECU. Ha.

I believe it's part of the injector harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know that much, lol. Problem is, the ECU is no longer in the car anymore. I'd like to keep the CC intact if at all possible. That's why I wondering what the wiring is. Is it just ground and switched 12v or something else? Etc....I can trace the wiring and figure it out, just trying to save some time if I can, since I don't really have any. :(
 

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It's just a 2-wire solenoid. I forget if it's normally closed or normally open, but it's 12V+ and a ground. Apply 12 and the solenoid's state changes. Pretty easy to wire it into an aftermarket ECU just using a 12V output pin and understanding the activation strategy. I think there was a thread here a few months ago which discussed the purge canister strategy so that it could be duplicated with an aftermarkey ECU setup
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's just a 2-wire solenoid. I forget if it's normally closed or normally open, but it's 12V+ and a ground. Apply 12 and the solenoid's state changes. Pretty easy to wire it into an aftermarket ECU just using a 12V output pin and understanding the activation strategy. I think there was a thread here a few months ago which discussed the purge canister strategy so that it could be duplicated with an aftermarkey ECU setup
Thanks, this is what I was looking for. I will see what I can come up with.
 

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It's just a 2-wire solenoid. I forget if it's normally closed or normally open, but it's 12V+ and a ground. Apply 12 and the solenoid's state changes. Pretty easy to wire it into an aftermarket ECU just using a 12V output pin and understanding the activation strategy. I think there was a thread here a few months ago which discussed the purge canister strategy so that it could be duplicated with an aftermarkey ECU setup
the strategy wont work, if the PCM does not have the logic to understand what it does and to expect it

the 02 sensors will report rich when activated, then the pcm will pull fuel

not a good idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the strategy wont work, if the PCM does not have the logic to understand what it does and to expect it

the 02 sensors will report rich when activated, then the pcm will pull fuel

not a good idea
I found the thread he was referring too. Something like suggesting to activate, at say 14.5 AFR, indicating a cruise condition (as an example) I'm still in the weeeeeeee early stages of researching this and finding a way to keep this intact and functional. Even if not quite correct as before, I still want to keep it. I have the entire GUFB strategy on my computer. Has to be a way to figure it out.
 

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without the ecm expecting the fuel vapor, you know the 02 will report rich, and the ecm will remove fuel, then when its off the 02 will report lean

so you decide and try it out, see what happens

also how long do you purge and at what duty cycle?

if you have a tank pressure sensor, you could run off that
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
indy, I know you know much more about that system than I do. In your opinion....is there any harm just leaving it in the car with vacuum still connected, and just leave the solenoid disconnected from the system? I realize it won't function as intended. I do NOT want gas smell in my garage, which is my main concern with retaining the function of this in the first place.
 

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not running evap system on the street not advisable
 

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With the solenoid non-functioning, you've essentially sealed the system and there is no relief for the pressure in the tank, among other potential issues.

Easiest solution that retains proper intended functionality and legality is to just relocate the canister. I briefly looked at putting mine inside the fender much like the SN95 cars have. Ultimately i decided to leave it in the factory location and just relocate the wiring/vac lines so those were out of sight. Honestly, it doesn't really detract from the engine bay, and the only reason I wanted to move it was to install ABS, which i ended up abandoning the idea of.

If you must delete it and don't want to deal with the smell, a solution a lot of the Factory Five Cobra replica guys go with is to fill a sprinker head with activated charcoal, connect the vac line to that, and run a loop up higher than the gas tank to prevent liquid fuel from being able to travel up into the line. I believe the vent-valve on the gas tank is a one-way so it should stop the flow of fuel in case of a roll-over. These canisters are smaller, and with no engine vac to pull off vapors into the engine occasionally they will saturate rather quickly and need periodic replacement. Not an ideal solution for a few reasons, but better than an open line.

Here's an example.
Charcoal Canister | Factory Five Racing Forum (ffcars.com)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
With the solenoid non-functioning, you've essentially sealed the system and there is no relief for the pressure in the tank, among other potential issues.

Easiest solution that retains proper intended functionality and legality is to just relocate the canister. I briefly looked at putting mine inside the fender much like the SN95 cars have. Ultimately i decided to leave it in the factory location and just relocate the wiring/vac lines so those were out of sight. Honestly, it doesn't really detract from the engine bay, and the only reason I wanted to move it was to install ABS, which i ended up abandoning the idea of.

If you must delete it and don't want to deal with the smell, a solution a lot of the Factory Five Cobra replica guys go with is to fill a sprinker head with activated charcoal, connect the vac line to that, and run a loop up higher than the gas tank to prevent liquid fuel from being able to travel up into the line. I believe the vent-valve on the gas tank is a one-way so it should stop the flow of fuel in case of a roll-over. These canisters are smaller, and with no engine vac to pull off vapors into the engine occasionally they will saturate rather quickly and need periodic replacement. Not an ideal solution for a few reasons, but better than an open line.

Here's an example.
Charcoal Canister | Factory Five Racing Forum (ffcars.com)
I don't WANT to remove it. But the EEC-IV and associated wiring is no longer one with my car, as it has a Holley setup in it now. So, I've been trying to find a way to retain it's services, so to speak.
 

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find a copy of the gufb

read up on the evap section, and try to program yours like it

i could try, but at $120/hr i dont think you will like that
 

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I don't WANT to remove it. But the EEC-IV and associated wiring is no longer one with my car, as it has a Holley setup in it now. So, I've been trying to find a way to retain it's services, so to speak.
Same issues here, trying to retain it with a Megasquirt system.

I'm keeping the sprinkler head with activated charcoal in my back pocket as a last resort, however i enjoy the challenge of trying to incorporate it into the aftermarket ECU.
 

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IF it were a PLC, a quick structured text program would solve it.
 

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The evap. system doesn't need to be high volume, restrict the flow enough that the affect on the PCM A/F is negligible. It only needs to flow enough to suck the fuel out of the canister that has collected while parked.

Replace the CC with a new one, or the effort is mostly wasted, they are not very effective after decades. I found new ones for my Explorer years ago for about $60 each(it has a pair). My 98 SUV's do smell of gas in Summer after shutting off the engine, the CC's are worn out.
 

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how much is just enough?
 

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I would suggest something like a very restrictive PCV would flow, those vary a lot in volume. If I guessed at a size of restrictor, I'd start with something like a plug gap, .050" or not much more. I might be in the same position with my old 73 Ford project, so I'm also paying attention to how this thread goes.
 
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