I am in the process as I write this. Drag only car now, has been for a couple years. 99 chassis, 2003 Mach1 crate motor with th usual hydro boost etc. i’m Doing it for weight savings as well as safety at the track. I’m also ditching the T56 for a C4. I started racing in a footbrake bracket class last year at my local track. Usually 70-80 cars in the field. I was the ONLY stick car, all the time. Be consistent or put it on the trailer. Reaction times were not the issue so much, it was running the number within a couple hun to have a chance. But I digress.
To answer your question, I’ve done my due diligence on the project and feel pretty comfortable with the parts I have in to begin assembly. I should also mention I have an AJE K and A arms, Kooks long tubes (which comes into play with the steering shaft).
Flaming River manual rack #1508. Don’t let the non-modular scare you. It just means you need SAE tie rod ends, ours are metric. In fact when I got the rack, it was advertised to be 48 1/2”, same length as my stock power rack. Measured out at 47 3/4. I called flaming river and they said, oh, we have some extra length tie rods ends to take care of that. Send em out no shipping and 40 for the pair. I think this comes up often. Should work out fine.
Flaming River u-joint #1509. Have not done this yet, but it looks to be perfect fit for out “cloverleaf” shaped steering shaft. Cut off the rag joint and put it on. Nice looking piece, and it should be for 90 bucks. But saves a lot of screwing around. One end for our shaft, one for the FR manual rack, done. I wanted to stick with my stock steering shaft because A. Aftermarket shafts including FR are crazy expensive, and B. Our steering shafts are designed to fit in a bearing in the firewall, and C. It was time consuming and required a little grinding to get my stock shaft through the Kooks LT’s, but it worked without having to dimple the LT’s, so if it ain’t broke............
Racecraft Inc. for my master cylinder kit. Strange 1.032 bore, 94-04 firewall plate and hardware kit for the rod. Just got that in yesterday. Talked to Racecraft and I will need to open up the firewall just a little, as the MC gets moved up a little for better leverage and proper pedal ratio. Also have to drill a new hole in the brake pedal for that new position with the plunger rod straight and level.
So we shall see, but everything looks good. Since this is a race only non DD and to make my life easier, I have pulled the dash, and it, along with my steering column is downstairs in my most comfortable work area. Car in barn, 9F here this morning. Also going to a Mezeire electric water pump with idler. You will discover when you delete the PS pump, that routing a belt is no laughing matter. I think I came up with a workaround, but time will tell. The PS pump is the ONLY pulley on the right side of the motor. Take that away and life becomes very interesting, and frustrating. I’ve never had AC from the time I built the car, alway had AC delete pulley. So with elec WP the only thing I need to drive is the alt. Hard to figure, frustrating. You’ll see.
I ran manual brakes with the aerospace components mc on my 04. I had too many problems tensioning the belt because of the direct overhead alt on the water pump and crank so decided to put back on power steering and run factory tensioner, I can get pictures if it helps.
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