Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
maybe its just me maybe its the fact that the tolerance on the fox body was CRAZY when they were built. add that to the fact that aftermarket stuff all has a tolerance on it.

to start my plan was to drill a hole in my strut tower and just run the line in there off the front port on the MC. well first hole saw bit broke off in the mandrel in a bunch of pieces so i went to my other one... bent the bit in that one when the saw grabbed.
plan B... banjo bolts...well the banjo bolt height and the distance to the flare on the MC dont jive... so you need to grind 2-3 threads off the banjo bolt for it to seal on the washers.
then go back and weld up the hole saws started to cut the strut tower
get all this done...
put the banjos on the MC and try to slide it in place on the studs on the UPR adapter plate.
no go
pull the banjo off the front port...
try it again
no go...
wooosaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
ok get the big ass hammer out... and add some clearance to the strut tower in that area.
put it back in...
still not enough room to get the banjo in...
ok pull the studs out of the plate mind you i had the genius idea to red loctite the studs in
put the banjo on and twist it into place and put the studs back in and tighten everything up


now i get to pull it all back out and paint that area now that everything will go together
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
lemme know when your ready man... i should have the rest of the fittings today and i can offer a package with everything. you would just need to move the mounting point on the brake pedal to 2" CL to CL.

but it would be the
UPR mount
Strange MC
banjo bolts bolt set ups for the MC to a -3 Line
or i could set it up to do an inverted flare off the banjo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
Haha, I kno your pain! The biggest pain for me was laying over the roll cage with the studs for the front seat buried in my back and try to get the nuts back on the brake booster delete plate and relocate the pivot point on the pedal. I also drilled through the strut tower for the rear brake port :grin2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i swear... the "easy" stuff never goes smoothly... doing a C4 swap... everything went smooth...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
if you say so...

everything i have on my car from UPR has fit better than expected.

wish i could say the same about my team Z mini tubs stuff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,421 Posts
haha how about those UPR mini tubs ... oh wait! And my experience has been the exact opposite. I will not put UPR parts on my lawnmower!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
haha how about those UPR mini tubs ... oh wait! And my experience has been the exact opposite. I will not put UPR parts on my lawnmower!
UPR doesnt make mini tubs...
i went with the Team Z stuff over the tig vision stuff since it is "jig" welded. well their jig SUCKS! i have to make my own spacers for the shocks after being told that my afco shocks were wrong by the dude on the phone. and the plates on the end for the coil over bar doesnt sit flat against my frame rails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
957 Posts
Every rant ive posted online about my horrible dealing with upr has been deleted but ill assure you they got there last dollar from me. David and his team has always been very helpful in everything ive got from them and the quality of the product is night and day, a 4 year old could tell which is better. I have one car left with a upr k member and im hoping this winter its in the garbage like the rest of the things I got from them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,529 Posts
Wow. Sorry to see your troubles. I used a Maximum Motorsport kit and it could not have been simpler to install....
My same experience. The MM manual brake conversion was a nice package.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top