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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I tried to find an old thread on this and add to it but couldn't locate it.

Anyway I made some links for my front swaybar. I turned out the thin bushings from 1 1/4" nylon bar stock, bought 3/8" rod ends from Grainger, and cut and drilled tie plates from 3/4" 11ga. flat bar. I backed up the bushings with 3/8" X 1 1/4" fender washers. I clamped all the tie plates together for drilling and put two 3/8" holes on 3" centers then drilled a 1/4" hole through the middle to tie them together for strength.

Here is a pic of the bushings and rod ends.


Here are the ends installed.


This is how it looks with the tie plates installed.


And finally with the brake cooling duct back in place.


I did a 5 mile test drive and it feels like it has a little less roll to it and best of all no nioses. I'd really like to try a larger diameter front bar to complement the extra rear bar I have but this is a starting point.

EDIT: These have been on almost 2 years now and still work fine. After about a year the car was reduced to auto-x/track use only. On a bumpy dirt driveway these did end up making a little noise but regular street and competition I don't notice any change in noise level.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I just make stuff for the fun of it and to improve the way my car handles on a budget. No plans to make stuff for sale.
 

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Do spherical bearing end links help a lot in terms of bar effectiveness versus regular endlinks with stiff polyurethane bushings?
 

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Han,

I can't tell from your photos, but make sure that you put some AN washers between each side of your endlink plates and the sperical rod end on the pinch bolt. If you don't do this, I think the ball joint will run out of angularity since the plates will hit the outside of the rod end body. This will cause lots of bad stuff.
 

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I love threads like this. Good job dude! Are you still using stock D-bracket bushings that hold on to the bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
ND4SPDLSC said:
Do spherical bearing end links help a lot in terms of bar effectiveness versus regular endlinks with stiff polyurethane bushings?
I don't think it will make a big difference. The main reason I wanted to go this route was my bushings get distorted from jacking the car up under the cross member. Since I change tires at every event and jack the car up often my bushings don't last. This way the end links can pivot without screwing up the bushings.


Jack Hidley said:
I can't tell from your photos, but make sure that you put some AN washers between each side of your endlink plates and the sperical rod end on the pinch bolt. If you don't do this, I think the ball joint will run out of angularity since the plates will hit the outside of the rod end body. This will cause lots of bad stuff.
I put some 3/8" lock washers on the outside of each pivot and inside the straps. I call em the poor mans AN washer. LOL This gives it a little more room to pivot. I connected one end and checked the range of motion and it looks to be plenty. I also looked at them to make sure the range of motion wasn't exceeded when I jacked the car back up off the stands and it was not. The suspension travel will never be as great as the drop you get on the jack, letting the control arms hang.
2k2GT said:
Good job dude! Are you still using stock D-bracket bushings that hold on to the bar?
Thanks! Yes I still have the stock D-bracket bushings. I am planning to get a larger front bar some time so I'll change those out when I do.
 

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Han,

Nice work! What size is your front bar? You mentioned that you want to go bigger. Are you considering that a bigger front bar will cause the car to understeer more? Generally, Mustangs push pretty badly, so you may not want more. I used to run the factory 1 5/16" bar with poly bushings, thinking that bigger was better. It cornered really flat, at the expense of front grip. ...good luck!


-Doug
 

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I did a 3D model of a simular setup and found out that the sperical bearings actually got into a lot of bind. The rodend links move very much in the same way rear upper control arms move. The geometry is all over the place. The closest bes scenario was keep your swaybar bearing like it is and your lower control too. But add a rod with sperical bearings on eachend then bolt them to the swaybar and lower control arm bearings. But it wasn't the greatest, so I did a model using eurathane bushings and it worked out the best.
 

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Han Solo said:
Anyway I made some links for my front swaybar. I turned out the thin bushings from 1 1/4" nylon bar stock, bought 3/8" rod ends from Grainger, and cut and drilled tie plates from 3/4" 11ga. flat bar. I backed up the bushings with 3/8" X 1 1/4" fender washers. I clamped all the tie plates together for drilling and put two 3/8" holes on 3" centers then drilled a 1/4" hole through the middle to tie them together for strength.
Added to my diy library.



Han Solo said:
to complement the extra rear bar I have but this is a starting point.
Hmmm.. any secrets here? I seem to remember something about a volvo bar or something like that. Or maybe it was all a dream.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
DougMorris said:
Han,

Nice work! What size is your front bar? You mentioned that you want to go bigger. Are you considering that a bigger front bar will cause the car to understeer more? Generally, Mustangs push pretty badly, so you may not want more. I used to run the factory 1 5/16" bar with poly bushings, thinking that bigger was better. It cornered really flat, at the expense of front grip. ...good luck!


-Doug
I've taken all that into account. What I am doing is going to 315/35/17 V710's all the way around for auto-x. When I went 315 r 275 f it developed a ton of understeer which I corrected by adding a rear swaybar. Being the cheapskate I am I went in the woods behind the house and pulled a 5/8" bar off the front of an old 240 series Volvo. It followed the curves of the stock bar close enough that I made some brackets to sandwich that sucker onto the existing bar (see pic below). The car responded very well to it and I can tune it from loose to tight with shock adjustments for different surfaces. I figure when I get those 315's on the front it will lean back towards the loose side if I don't either remove the extra rear bar or add more bar on the front. I'm thinking I will have enough additional traction to stiffen the front and not create a push while reducing body roll.


sivnalem said:
Hmmm.. any secrets here? I seem to remember something about a volvo bar or something like that. Or maybe it was all a dream.
You weren't dreamin. Read and look above.

EDIT: This has been replaced with a Roush/Cobra bar.

I just post this stuff to get opinions and give other people ideas. I'm not into making anything for sale. I was a auto technician for 25+ years before getting a non-degreed engineer position. I work in a machine/electronics shop where I design and fabricate research equipment. I also have stuff in my home shop like a mig welder, drill press, band saw, etc. etc. so some of my ideas and doings can't be duplicated by the ordinary DIYer but some can.
 

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Those look better than my originals in this thread. My only concern with your changes is the smaller width of the steel used as the links combined with the grinding on the ends for clearance hasn't left much material around the bolt holes. Just eyeballing the pictures it looks like it might be a strength/durability issue.
Now in person it might look just fine- not that it means squat compared to actually calculating the strength of the pieces and the forces involved.

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fast92Coupe said:
Those look better than my originals in this thread. My only concern with your changes is the smaller width of the steel used as the links combined with the grinding on the ends for clearance hasn't left much material around the bolt holes. Just eyeballing the pictures it looks like it might be a strength/durability issue.
Now in person it might look just fine- not that it means squat compared to actually calculating the strength of the pieces and the forces involved.

Justin
Yeah I am a little concerned about that too. I may add some jam nuts under the washer to get a little more clearence and make new straps. I knew I wouldn't have room for full nuts under there without running out of thread for the lock nut. I could also make some more nylon bushings and turn the faces a little thinner but I don't want to mount it solid. For now I was planning to just carry my old stuff and tools to change them for a couple of events in case they break.
 

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Are the endlinks on a fox body really that much longer? I read that Han's Links ahve holes @ 3" on centers. The link I am making for my fox require holes @ 6 1/4" on centers. I am running H&R race springs with one isolator. I do notice a difference in the sway bar mount.
 

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Yeah I am a little concerned about that too. I may add some jam nuts under the washer to get a little more clearence and make new straps. I knew I wouldn't have room for full nuts under there without running out of thread for the lock nut. I could also make some more nylon bushings and turn the faces a little thinner but I don't want to mount it solid. For now I was planning to just carry my old stuff and tools to change them for a couple of events in case they break.
I have been wanting to build a set of those for myself, are you still running them? any issues?

Thanks
TJ
 
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