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Discussion Starter #1
Well, in a spot of stupidity I got the oppurtunity to learn about what happens with overheated components in a differential, I have just purchased a low mile Turbocoupe complete 8.8" rear end to replace the 1995 GT rear end in my car.

I know I have to swap all the hardware as far as axles, axle flanges, brake hardware, lines, and my panhard bracket, however I have a few questions.

It is a 3.55:1 gear setup, Identical to what I had. Is there anything I should do to the differential while I have the axles out? I plan on replacing the ear bushings (though they look fine), c-clips (this rear end has little to no play, suprisingly), and of course, fluid.

What else can I do? Should I look into the axle bearings and seals? What about putting more clutch packs in the differential? Would it be beneficial or no for 80% daily, 10% strip, 10% auto-x/OT? I lean more on the auto-x/ot than drag as far as bias in ability.

I'd like to do this low budget, since stupidity landed me here in the first place. All suggestions are welcome.
 

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Inspect the axle bearing rollers for pitting and replace the seals. If you have to remove the pinion flange replace the seal. Inspect the differential gears, cross pin, differential pinion gear thrust washers for galding. Turn the pinion flange/gear and feel/listen for "grittiness." If that is evident inspect carrier and pinion bearings/races. Check to see if there is any end-play on the pinion gear, if you remove the diff. check the preload. Check for any side to side play on the diff. Check backlash. That is all I can think of, but since you are going to be in there you should look all that over. Fortunately all of that can be inspected before you put the rear-end in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
homank76 said:
How the hell did you kill your rear end Chris?
No Fluid for short period. Now the 95GT one whines. However, I'm hoping its just the ring and pinion, so I can just throw a spare set of gears in and sell it.

So would anyone mess with the differential while its out, or is that just a drag racer's deal?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So would the $10 install kit and $40 Tlok rebuild kit be all I need? Along with a couple axle seals, sandpaper and a nice paint?
 

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You shouldn't need an install kit if you don't have to take out the pinion gear. Just axle seals and a Traction-loc kit. But still check all that stuff I listed so you don't put it all together and something goes bad.

On edit: I have a re-usable cover gasket that I got with the install kit for my gears. It doesn't leak and it has proven handy for when I rebuild my diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
martindc1 said:
You shouldn't need an install kit if you don't have to take out the pinion gear. Just axle seals and a Traction-loc kit. But still check all that stuff I listed so you don't put it all together and something goes bad.

On edit: I have a re-usable cover gasket that I got with the install kit for my gears. It doesn't leak and it has proven handy for when I rebuild my diff.
I meant the install kit that has the 2 rear bushings, 2 c clips, and a bottle of friction modifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
go to gefracing.com,

I checked, axle bearings/seals + diff rebuild kit + install kit (c clips, friction modifier, rear bushings) + reusable gasket = $83.

Then just some fluid, and I'm set.

How hard is it to replace those bearings on either side?
 

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F that! They want $18 to ship an $8 gasket by GROUND?

Replacing the bearings is pretty easy--the hardest part is getting the old ones out. You might be able to rent/borrow a slide hammer puller from your local parts haus.
 
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