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Discussion Starter #1
My left front wheel is producing 10 times more brake dust than any of the other four. If it were a problem with the preportioning (sp) valve, I would think it would effect both front brakes or both rear brakes. Maybe a sticking caliper? Any ideas would be of help.

Thanks
 

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it's normal for the fronts to make more dust than the rears.

that being said the imbalance from left to right is irregular. generally, the fronts should be dirtier than the rears with the left and rights being similar in dust.

mine did what yours is doing from the factory and the pads on that side were wearing faster too. i bled the brakes on the 'cleaner' side to find a sheit load of air, go figure, yeah Ford :rolleyes:

give this a try, if it's been a while since you've done your brake fluids might as well pull all the wheels and do all four :D hopefully this solves this issue but if not, it might be a mechanical issue.

i'm assuming that you're using the same pads all around especially from left to right and that there are no installation issues
 

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Scott had some very good advice and you may already have a solution to the problem, but heres some additional food for thought. I have seen situations where the brake on the opposite side was not doing its equal share which forces the one that is working properly to do more of the work. You might be right in thinking the caliper is sticking, however I have seen many times where the caliper was replaced when that was not the problem at all. I have worked with numerous mechanics over the years that allowed the caliper to hang from the rubber brake hose as the are servicing the pads and/or rotors. If the hose is the least bit detereated, just moving it from it's natural location can cause it to start to flake apart inside. If the hose starts to flake you can wind up with what would act as a flap (attached to the inner wall of the hose). When you get off the brake pedal and the fluid starts to return to the Master Cylinder Reservoir the flake in the hose can restrict its return causing the brake to drag for a period of time. You might miss this symptom if you jack up the car and spin the wheels. It might only restrict the fluid return for a few seconds, just long enough to cause the extra pad wear.
If you determine the caliper is free and the caliper is not binding in its guides, I would replace the rubber hose and bleed the system completely.
While on the subject of bleeding. Did you know to be safe you should bleed your brakes every year or so? From time to time you hear of mysterious brake failures and/or crashes where the pedal feels fine after the fact. DOT3 fluid is designed and formulated to absorb, and keep suspended, a specific amount of water. After the brake fluid reaches its saturation point (quicker in high humidity environment) the water starts to fall out of the fluid and gravity will take it to the lowest points in the brake system (wheel cylinders and calipers). Now you have water setting in an area that often times see high temperatures. Heat transfer out of the pads and rotor assemblies are not as high these days (with composite pistons) as they have been in the past, but if you stand on your brakes and really heat them up the pistons could see upwards of 500-600 degrees fahrenheit. Now it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what that kind of temperature will do to a small amount of water in a hurry. Boil water and it turns to steam, gas, vapor. As it heats up, the resultant pressure increase, in the caliper or cylinder forces a small amount of fluid back into the MC. If you have displaced some of fluid back to the MC you are not going to have any braking force the next time you press the pedal. You must refill the void (created by the steam) by pumping the pedal or waiting until the steam turns back to water and gravity refills the void with fluid .
I hope this makes some sense. I apologize for rambling. This is only my opinion, but common sense tells me this could be a very real problem. Just My 2 Cents!!!!!!
Good luck to you!!!
 

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You may just find a simple answer right here in Scott's reply.

QUOTE: Scott Kim

"mine did what yours is doing from the factory and the pads on that side were wearing faster too. i bled the brakes on the 'cleaner' side to find a sheit load of air, go figure, yeah Ford "
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2 cents? Dude that was about a buck and a half.:) It has been some time since I flushed the fluid and the calipers have over 120k miles. So, the senarios you present are likely. So...I'm going to go with a full upgrade to 13inch fronts and 11inch rears with SS hoses and acomplete flush this weekend. This should fix the issue. Thanks a heap for the input.
 

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Hey Scott!!!
I bet that's an awsome car you have. Do you have the wheel hop that plagues the IRS? I wouldn't even care. I'd live with it just to own a Cobra. My daughter had a '99 and it was awsome- stock. I can only imagine how it would be to drive yours!
Have you had many problems with it?
 

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96GTCONV said:
2 cents? Dude that was about a buck and a half.:) It has been some time since I flushed the fluid and the calipers have over 120k miles. So, the senarios you present are likely. So...I'm going to go with a full upgrade to 13inch fronts and 11inch rears with SS hoses and acomplete flush this weekend. This should fix the issue.
GOOD LUCK! Let us know how things go!!!
 

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good luck with the brakes, when going with your upgrade you should solve any problems you may have had.

thanks, my car's given me a couple problems in the past but it's beginning to shape up (especially since my warranty just ended about two months ago) there are quite a few inherent weaknesses in the mustang setup as it comes from the factory and it takes some time and money to bring it up to snuff :mad:

and about the wheel hop thing, yeah it sucks but after the chassis stiffening and suspension it was pretty much gone. think the chassis flex was hugely magnifying the hop. thankfully i don't have the bone-jarring thumping anymore. now it hops only as much as my friend's C5 (p.s. Corvettes hop too ;) )

cool thing is i think i've had just about everything replaced on my car, feels like it's new :D new tranny, new radiator and cooling system, rotors, brake lines, radio, rear end rebuild (and they put in 4.10's for free no less at the dealership all under warranty :cool: ) it's good to have friends at the dealership

going for a SHM 300 in about a year with an SC. i'm looking for about 550 reliable and very safe RWHP when everything is said and done. anyone know a good custom car interior place around here (for car show type of interior mods/fabrication/painting) ???
 

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So you have had tranny problems as well. I can only imagine having a local dealership you can trust to do your warranty work. That must be a comforting thought.
My car usually comes out in the same (if not worse) condition. The really sad thing is..... I think the guys at my dealership are doing the best they know how to. It's sad to spend good money and have to put up with problems for fear of making things worse. I currently have a little over 6 months (or 21000 miles) left on my warranty. I have approx. 50 minor things wrong (mostly cosmetic) and 7 or 8 drivetrain and drivability problems. I just had another bad experience with the dealership last week. I was without my car for the biggest part of three days. I took the time to make sure the service advisor, shop forman, and mechanic all knew exactly what my complaints were. I duplicated and pretty much diagnosed both the problems for each one of the guys. They replaced quite a few parts but did not fix either problem. They have damaged the car (in one way or another) absolutely every time it has been in there.
Sorry to ramble! It helps to vent. THANKS FOR LISTENING!
What was wrong with your tranny and radiator?
Did they calibrate your speedo to the 4.10's?
 

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if you can get service in the PA area i can hook you up with my guy. he's actually the drivetrain specialist at a good SVT dealership. that's how i got my entire tranny and rearend rebuilt under warranty with 74,000 miles on the odometer. :joy: :joy: :joy: he also does private work on the side :joy: :joy: :joy:
 

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Scott Kim said:
if you can get service in the PA area i can hook you up with my guy.

I wish PA was closer. I'd let your guy try to help me out. I live in Texas. I am a former ASE Master Mechanic with 20+ years experience and it kills me to have someone else working on my car. That's the main reason I am putting up with the biggest part of the problems I have. If the little stuff gets to bothering me too bad....I'll fix it. The only reason the dealership is working on it now is that they will not furnish me the parts it needs under warranty and let me do the work because I am not Ford Certified.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I upgraded the fornt brakes to PBR dual piston Cobra calipers and drilled/slotted rotors. Put drilled slotte rotors on the back, as well. We'll see if the problem goes away. She stops on a dime now. Also, if you haven't bought speedbleeders yet, get some. I replaced all my brake lines with braided stainless and flushed and bled the system in less than 15 minutes, by myself! Those things are worth their weight in gold.
 
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